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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, so I bought the F2 from a member here on these boards. Was never installed on his car, so it was practically brand new.

I installed it Monday night. Pulled the Negative battery, followed the how-to. Gave some slack on the maf wires, and installed it. Started the car, and it bounced off the idle speed a few times, almost dying, then it caught itself and jumped to about 1500rpm, slowly settling to about 800 once the car started to warm up. I then drove it, and the car ran, felt pretty decent.

Tuesday morning, no issues on the 34 mile jaunt to work. However, on the way home Tuesday afternoon, CEL popped on at about the 40 mile mark. However, car felt the same, except I started to notice some serious bogging when I'd shift into 2nd. Nothing else was hampered, rpm's weren't limited like I've read could happen.

Tuesday night, I pulled the neg battery again, took it all apart and reassembled the CAI thinking I missed something. Searched the forums for similar issues, followed the tips to clean the maf, oil the o-ring, make sure the tubes were butted together, maf was seating right, clamps were as tight as they could go, and the maf wires weren't broken. I hooked the battery back up, started the car, and the same thing as the first time. Bounced off the idle, almost dying again, then jumped and slowly settled. Once it was warmed up, it wasn't like huge jumping, but I'd feel small shudders, and the rpm's were moving what I would estimate to be less than 100 rpm's. I didn't drive it tuesday night, but as it idled, I messed with the maf wires, wiggling them listening and looking for any changes in the engine. There were none.

The next time I drove it was Wednesday morning. Again, no issues on the way to work except for the bogging in 2nd still, but no CEL's. Went to lunch at the new Sonic's in town, and again at the 40 mile mark, CEL. Car again ran fine as before the CEL.

I took the afternoon off and went to autozone.

Eight (8) codes. There were 4, but those 4 were logged 2 times each.
P2177
P2187
P2096
P0137

Then I came home, took off the bat cable, took the CAI all apart again, depinned the MAF, verified they were all fine visually. Reoiled the o-ring on the maf, came here to make sure I had it pointing the right way. I took off the oil line coming off the intake, and it was connected fine and not bent. I reassembled it all, slowly, taking my time, clamps all tight, joints snug, tubes butt against each other. MAF is in tight, Oil line is back on, and then reconnected the battery cable.

Started the car, and I let it idle for 15 minutes. I touched nothing, but it did it's usual spiel of bouncing off the idle speed, then it settled at 950 (or so) rpm's. I messed with the maf wires again, just hoping that was the issue. No change in the engine. I stopped the car, locked up the house, restarted the car, and the idle dropped to 750-800. I left to go pick up my daughter. Within 4 miles the CEL came on again.

I finished my errands, came home, and decided I needed help from the community.

Now, some questions on the F2 for those who have it directly from F2. The pic on the site shows a rubber hose coming off the little nozzle near the end of the tube. Do I need that? Next, I've read about a reducer being inside the tube near the MAF. Do I need that as well, because its not in the tube either.

Here's the FS thread for the F2 I bought, with pics. Everything in the pics is what I received. http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=133689.0

Thanks in advance!
 

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it doesn't matter if your breather hose is connected or capped but YES YES A THOUSAND TIMES YES you need the reducer in the pipe, otherwise it meters air at 3" when it should be 2.5" and your car will run like shit, which is obvious by now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Alright. Will call F2 today and see if I can get that part.

I'll also PM Antimatter and see if he by chance has it and forgot.

Speaking of which, is this something maybe I can hunt down at a local hardware store and make it work? Like some rubber/polyurethane tubing I can fit in there from plumbing? Does anyone have a picture of the reducer, and where exactly it goes inside the f2?

Thanks.
 

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fits the maf section and i believe is extended at least an inch in either direction but don't quote me. i don't see why you couldn't fab one up but it might take a while to cut and fit properly.
 

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For the record, I shipped Version_3 everything that F2 gave to me apart from the F2usa sticker and installation guide, both of which I had thrown out.

Based on the parts list here

www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=73013.0

they sent me the newer reducing coupler but not the "5" long urethane reducer" for the MAF section. I wouldn't be surprised if F2 left the part out, their products are good for the most part but their customer service is junk. I still haven't received the outerware that I paid an additional $20 for when I bought the F2.
 

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edit: ignore this post
 

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as far as i am concerned, most if not all of f2's products have had serious quality concern issues and rather than ironing them out, they send out orders and let consumers unwittingly do r&d. i wouldn't buy an f2 product at all, they're the new weapon r.
 

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I'm filing a complaint with the BBB in california. Maybe that will get them to wake up...ignoring my emails and phone calls is not good business practice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Antimatter - never doubted that at all. :) I got everything as pictured, which makes me 100% confident in what I got from you. Thanks for checking in and glad you're keeping on them about the outerwears. :)

I just left a message with F2 as its still not 8am there yet. Hopefully they get back to me. Not sure if they'll work with me since I didn't buy from them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update: I'm to call Ricardo on Monday to settle this issue with the reducer. Great news.

However, I took a very close look at the intake today while trying to plan for making my own insert. There is an 'insert' of sorts at the MAF, of metal, that brings the I.D. to 2.5", where as the I.D. at the TB end if the pipe is 2.75". Does this sound right?
 

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I ordered an F2 intake from them and about a month later they informed me that they were out and they were sending me an F5 for the same price :) The worst part about F2 that I observed was that it takes over a month to process a simple order. Its ridiculous.

Lucky me :p
 

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[quote author=Version_3 link=topic=137377.msg2967755#msg2967755 date=1235873187]
Update: I'm to call Ricardo on Monday to settle this issue with the reducer. Great news.

However, I took a very close look at the intake today while trying to plan for making my own insert. There is an 'insert' of sorts at the MAF, of metal, that brings the I.D. to 2.5", where as the I.D. at the TB end if the pipe is 2.75". Does this sound right?
[/quote]
My understanding is that there have been at least two versions of the intake. It's possible that the newer one has a smaller inner diameter at the MAF sensor point built in now, which would explain why they didn't include the insert. I'm interested to hear their side of the story.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
...If I ever get their side of the story. I must have called upwards of 6 times so far, left a message, and emailed Ricardo.


EDIT: I got a call from Ricardo this evening. Needed pictures and measurements because the upper tube is not the right one for my car. Will update when I hear back from him. Thanks everyone for caring/taking the time to look.
 

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I never had an issue with their products... I have personally bought a F2 intake about 3 years ago and installed it on my 06 2.3 manual mz3 and I did not have a CEL or any problems at all. Then I went and installed it on an 07 auto with no problems. I also helped my friend install a F2 intake on his 08 atuo mz3 and he has no problems. They do have 2 versions on it because Mazda changed the maf sensor. 04-06 is 2.5in while 07-09 is 2.75in. But yes if you don't have a reducer inside the pipe then you will throw a CEL.

Before they worked with SCI and many of their old products were created by SCI, which hasn't been good for F2. They stopped selling any products that were designed and created by SCI and are remaking them. This includes the headers, exhaust, etc...
 

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F2 sent me my outerware yesterday, either because of the BBB complaint I filed against them, or thanks to Version_3's nagging on my behalf. It took them almost 4 months to get it to me...really lame.

Anybody want to buy it? :p
 

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Well actually we never got any BBB complaint...and when we got the outerwares in we shipped them out as we went down the list of the orders...

As for the products and issues listed here....we have sold over 250 intakes for the Mazda 3 and so far there has been a handful of people that have issues. The major problem would be the opening in the MAF...Our first test vehicle that we used has over 100,000 miles on our intake and still running strong....we have tested our intake and the design works but according to Mazda there are some variances in intakes from the factory....even with CARB they expect a 10 percent failure rate on parts....
 

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Thanks for the reply F2.

Version_3, did you ever get your CELs sorted out?
 

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Yea usually you get a 2177 or a 2187.

But how many miles are on the car totally?
Is the pcv hose under the intake leaking?
Thats usually the cause of those codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
[quote author=Antimatter85 link=topic=137377.msg3016987#msg3016987 date=1238012092]
Version_3, did you ever get your CELs sorted out?
[/quote]

CEL's are sorted out with having the stock intake on. I haven't heard from Ricardo since the latest shipment was being 'powdercoated'.

[quote author=ekanddsm link=topic=137377.msg3017166#msg3017166 date=1238016956]
Yea usually you get a 2177 or a 2187.

But how many miles are on the car totally?
Is the pcv hose under the intake leaking?
Thats usually the cause of those codes.
[/quote]

20K at time of issues.
 
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