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Just was curious if anyone on the board has heard or has amps by DIRECTED.

I know they are from the company DEI who also owns polk, orion and so on... but not sure what kind of quality they are or how good or bad they sound. Im just having a hard time finding a dealer around my area who carries them, or has them installed and working, not just able to order it for you.

I was looking at the 5 channel amp they have instead of having to buy 2 amps (1 mono and 1 4 chan)... cause they say its running 80x4 into 4ohms and 400x1 into 1 at 4ohms. Which is plenty for me.. cause i dont want something thats going to shake the paint off my car :)

Any thoughts would be appreciated
 

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Fifteen years ago there was a huge difference between inexpensive amps and good ones. Competition and modern integrated circuitry (plus Far East assembly plants) have brought the price down such that my $99 (including $30 shipping) 300 watt RMS Profile Baja amp is very capable, solidly built and sounds great. An amp with this kind of performance would have been several hundred dollars a few years back.

I like the Profile amps for the no-nonsense styling. It is going into the trunk anyway, so it doesn't have to be gorgeous, and it certainly doesn't need an extra $50 worth of unnecessary LEDs, and butt-ugly boy-racer gew-gaws like so many other amps.

On the other hand, if it is worth it to you, there are several more expensive amps from companies like Alpine, that are absolutely handsome. But I doubt that they sound much better than my Profile.

So you can buy just about any amp and find that they all sound really good. Profile has always been a good bang for the buck brand, but there are several others that don't get a lot of name recognition that are just as good and also reasonably priced.

Where you want to spend the money is on your speakers. There is a huge difference between the best $220 components and the best $130 ones. There is a distinct improvement if you spend even more.

A well built sub box (enclosure) with a good driver make a lot more difference than the amp, as long as it has adequate power. However, there are hugely diminishing returns past the $600 price point on subs. I doubt that a car with $2000 worth of subwoofer + enclosure + amp sounds significantly better at normal volumes than one with a well-designed $600 subwoofer + enclosure + amp. The purpose of such expensive subs is not for good sound, but the braggin' rights to kill your ears going thud-thud down the street.
 

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Another thing to look at in amps

Is how they rate them, some throw big numbers out like 10,090000 watts! Well maybe not but what you need is the RMS number and of course to have your sub in that range.

I also went pretty nice for my subwoofer and bought a JL 12w6 in a JL desinged box, i have had comments from others that they wish theirs was as loud and CLEAR as the JL w6 while they where running 2-12" mid level subs and a huge 1000-2000 watt amp ( BTW i use a JL 500.1 mono amp)

Not installed on my 07 yet, im trying to find help with wiring the amp into BOSE
 

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The JL does look like a very good driver, can handle 50% more power than my 1/3 as expensive Dayton Reference HF 12 sub, but 300 watts is plenty for me.

I don't know why anyone would need any more, since it is very accurate musically, and my $99 amp drives it just fine to very satisfying levels. I don't thud-thud down the road tho. JL-amps are very pricey (if very nice looking) but I see no need to spend $400 for an amp when $100 gives you a very punchy and accurate amp like mine.
 

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To tell you the truth its too much, i have to but the db bass boost at 0

But its there to bring it out if needed...
 

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I don't need bass boost either. I had to put mine at 0, too. My amp just has a two-position switch, and the lowest boost (6db) made the system sound boomy. With the gain turned down, I was able to turn the sub up most of the way. My woofer has a really low Fs, so it probably doesn't need much help going low given all of the room gain in a small car interior.
 

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Many times what you pay for with an amp is it's build quality. And it's durability. i.e JL well, with all the R&D they do you know you are getting a high quality amp that will last you and put out it's rated power. But on the other hand you can sometimes end up paying for just a "name" I won't name any products but they are out there. While there is also the chance a cheaper amp doesn't put out it's rated power and by increasing the gains to get more output you start clipping. All in all I'd say the big thing is getting what you pay for. i.e if you buy a 400w amp you want 400w amp not a 325w amp now of course if you end up with 425w that's a plus.
 

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I won't hesitate to recommend any DEI product. I've had my Directed amps for 8-9 years. They are from the first or maybe the second year of production. I have been very happy with their performance.

Directed 500 4ch
Directed 600d mono
 

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I'll second the notion that there isn't much if any audible difference between cheap amps and expensive amps... within reason. Obviously, a '1000w' flea market amp is, in reality, a 50w amp (or whatever). These days, class A/B is class A/B, pretty much. You may get more reliable products for more money, or better customer service, but you probably won't be able to tell much difference in sound, so long as you're using the amp in its linear range (where THD is still low and frequency response is flat). Just make sure the ratings are true and you're good to go.

Exceptions? Speakers that are very reactive can cause problems with 'lesser amps' (very rare), and really efficient speakers benefit from a tube or class A amp... but we're talking 100dB+ 1w/1m - ridiculously efficient.
 
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