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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all

My car has been having problem starting ever since I installed the hiboost kit with Haltech F10X, but it's not huge so I never really bother with it. However, I would like to see if everyone else using F10X is having the same problem.

In the morning at cold start, I have to turn my key into ignition (without cranking), wait for ~5 seconds, turn it off, and turn back on to ignition for another 5 second before I can crank it. Other wise the car won't start. Its like I have to "prime" the injector for a few times.

Anyone knows why? I was trying to fiddle with the fuel priming map in the halwin but I don't want to do anything until I fully understand the issue.

Thanks
 

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There's an option called fuel priming , its in the same Menu as fuel maps, air temp correction, battery correction, and coolant correction. With your car on on, go into that menu, it will highlight the bar your car is currently using. It's based on temperature, I believe you need more fuel, but from there on its trial and error, until it starts like you like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
[quote author=M3-S link=topic=134304.msg2890409#msg2890409 date=1232947963]
same happens to me, can you put up what you set everything to if/when it works?
[/quote]

This morning only took me 1 and 1/2 prime to get it started! Big improvement over my previous 3 primes.

Gonna do some more adjustment tonight. If it works well, I will post it tomorrow.
 

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Sorry to bring this thread back. Ever since I got the haltech I've had a problem with tuning. For example the car runs rich (13.1) at a set point while cruising (i.e 3000rpm's -5psi) however when im accelerating froma stop and pass over the same point, it runs 15.7 a/f. Scott from Haltech mentioned that the map sensor should not have any t's in it, and be as close as possible to the intake mani. My map sensor vacuum hose has a t connector in inbetween the mapsensor and intake manifold to go to my bov which right now is located next to the intercooler on the throttle body side, instead right before the throttle body. Would that long vacuum hose cause the inaccurate map readings? I'm wondering if running a dedicated hose from the mani to the map sensor, and taking a vacuum source from the brake booster for my bov, and boost gauge would give a more accurate reading?
 

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I had a similar issue. We decided that the map sensor would be best fed by the brake assist line...but the issue has always been with the idle
 

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What did u use to tap into the brake line? I bought a brass T today, but I don't think it will stay in the hard plastic.
 

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Would you know what size?
 
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