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Discussion Starter #1
hi guys i need some help with an amplifier install. my idea is to install an amplifier under either front seats.

My question is what panels should i pry open where should i run the RCA and the POWER CABLE for the amplifier.

i have read somewhere that i have to run RCA cable and the Power cable seperately.

i 'm using a LOC and need to cut the speaker wires behind the head unit and install the LOC then run the rca cable from the LOC to the amplifier. then run speaker wires from the amplifier to the speaker wires that are cut on the other end.

The runnning of the wires is my biggest problem could anyone direct? thank you
 

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Look at the Sticky.

You don't need to cut the speaker wires for the LOC. You can tap off them.

May I ask why you would want to install it under the front seat? It's cool and all cuz it's hidden, but you won't be able to adjust it as easy (bass boost, freq, etc.). I installed mine on the back of the left (sitting in the car) rear seat. Routed power, and remote on the left of the vehicle and RCA on the right (running them separately decreases interference).

As for routing the RCA, the panels pop right off (some have those self locking plastic screws). There are three of them under the glove box (remove this too for easy routing). Then the ones along the door and column. Easy to take off (with some hefty prying, but be careful). Power can go throught a gromet in the firewall. Might want to make it bigger and get a rubber fitting so vibration won't dig at the insulation of the wire.
 

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i was thinking it would be easier to install under the front seats since i dunno how to route the wires to the back, in the boot.

By tapping do you mean i just open up the plastic housing of the speaker wires behind the headunit and wiring the LOC to the exposed part?

Is taping the proper method? what is its benefits? i'm a noob i would appreciate all input and knowledge that you might have.

What is sticky? i have no clue what you are refering to... is it some link?
 

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also consider the fact that you have heater vents under your front seats. Amps need plenty of breathing room, which they will have down there- but theyre gunna be REALLY hot during the winter. Also consider passengers who like to wedge their feet up under there.
 

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Nothing wrong with using the space under the seats for amps. What I do find hilarious is people recommending using taps. They simply aren't reliable.

I ran all of my signal cables directly down the center console. It's really quite simple to take apart and reassemble. I think 4 screws to get the whole center console out of the car. There is also a great grounding point under there where the emergency brake lever is bolted to the chassis.

i 'm using a LOC and need to cut the speaker wires behind the head unit and install the LOC then run the rca cable from the LOC to the amplifier. then run speaker wires from the amplifier to the speaker wires that are cut on the other end.
This is exactly what I did to my '04 Mazda3. No problems after 2.5 years. Stay away from t taps and scotch loks. They're useless IMO.
 

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I ran my wires the same as el ropo, right down the middle. I disagree with teh wire tap comment though. If you have the right taps for the right wire, then you shouldn't have any problem. I've used taps many times and only had an issue when I bought taps for the wrong gauge wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
whats the advantages of taping the wires. how come it works with taping and simply jus cutting the wires? is there a signal difference? it seems wierd to me that both cutting and taping works? somehow they must differ. anyone can explain?

it seems to me if the idea of a LOC is to convert the signal to a different one why would taping work? wouldnt it in fact intefere with the signal? sent to the amplifier?

By tapping do you mean i just open up the plastic housing of the speaker wires behind the headunit and wiring the LOC to the exposed part? where does the speaker wires from the amplifier go to?
 

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A wire tap connects two wires without cutting. It basically slices through the plastic coating of the two wires to connect the copper.

I prefer them in places where wires are short. when you cut and tape you lose a little of the length of the original wire. tapping prevents this from happening. Plus you don't have to worry about wires coming loose (that is if you do not solder).

I looked for a pic of a wire tap but couldnt find one. but you can get them at places like radio shack.
 

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[quote author=krstofer link=topic=68039.msg1173109#msg1173109 date=1170011809]
A wire tap connects two wires without cutting. It basically slices through the plastic coating of the two wires to connect the copper.

I prefer them in places where wires are short. when you cut and tape you lose a little of the length of the original wire. tapping prevents this from happening. Plus you don't have to worry about wires coming loose (that is if you do not solder).

I looked for a pic of a wire tap but couldnt find one. but you can get them at places like radio shack.
[/quote]

Careful if you wire tap. It's like a claw that shoves the wire between a gap (shaped like a U). This can cut the wire - that the only risk, just get the right gauge. Not that I have done this or anything :). It just makes you more supseptable to cutting the wire if it moves to much or you put a hell of a lot of stress on it.
 

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[quote author=ambiguity link=topic=68039.msg1173159#msg1173159 date=1170014149]
Careful if you wire tap. It's like a claw that shoves the wire between a gap (shaped like a U). This can cut the wire - that the only risk, just get the right gauge. Not that I have done this or anything :). It just makes you more supseptable to cutting the wire if it moves to much or you put a hell of a lot of stress on it.
[/quote]

That is my point, you have to get the right gauge tap for the right gauge wire. if you get a tap that is too big it will just pinch the sheathing and not cut it.
 

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Don't bother cutting the wires to get into the signal or use taps. It takes a razer blade, time and patience but you can do it right the first time. Using the razer blade just take your time and strip some of the plastic around the wire off. Be careful not to apply too much pressure because you can go throught the wire. Just take your time, you'll get a hang of how much pressure to use within the first 30 secs. After you strip the plastic sheeting away from the wire, take the wire you want to attach and wrap it around the wire you just stripped the plastic sheeting from. Then solder and wrap some electrical tape around it and your done.

I just used this method last night to install my LOC and it took about 10 minutes to strip, solder, and tape the four wires. Sure it takes longer than using taps, but your connections are 100% secure for years to come.
 
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