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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
One of my wonderful friend gave me a gift of 4G TL Bi-Xenon projector kit for my 2015 Mazda3 application.


After observing this replica? projector, it very much is lke MD2S 3.0 kind vertically wide beam pattern with big foreground illumination.


I have read about foreground limiter fabricating posts, some says it may cause reflector bowl to burn due to trapped heat by limiter shield blocking it.



So I tried come up solution, that has heat escape window, rather wide opening yet can be limit aggressive and also somewhat adjustable.



Plate itself has two tab? flap.
One on upper is to make heat evacuation window, yet blocking leak.

The other one on lower is limiter.




Upper one is bend forward allowing heat to escape.

Lower one bend backward, limiting foreground illumination.
Depend on angle of bend, it can be adjustable somewhat without changing size or limiter tab.

It can limit aggressive without making window too narrow this way.
Bend lower tab far back make limit less.







This is before




Here is with limiter





I used license plate kind aluminium sheet, so thickness of sheet is added between lens and bowl..
Didn't want to space, hope it won't affect beam pattern too much


Now time to fit those into headlight.


It was easy butyl seal, so basic oven baking worked well.



Held by 3 screws,



to the left is original H11 projector, to the right, Bi-Xenon 4G TL replica?? with fabricated foreground limiter.



Bolt holes were exact layout. so literally, just swap projector. Kinda felt like,, I didn't feel like retrofit ..lol



Lens holder screws touches mount base, since I was not sure how accurately those 3 screws stick out, I place small spacer between.
And due to slight structural difference, (flange base of reflector bowl thickness, lens holder base ), original 3 screws had to be cut short very slightly.




Since this replica projector is pretty much generic simple design, it does not have any positioning locator pin or some kind of alignment accuracy consideration,,,
mount on actual car and make sure alignment "within" screw holes are important.

This 15 min can regret you hugely if you fail align well. lol






Decided to mount ballast at the bottom of housing. 3 bolts run though.



Bolts were fused to housing material with nylon lock nut, with rubber washer on outside.




Then ballast mounted with another nylon lock nut






All wires are organized at connector on left top, so removing headlight from car only take one main connector to be disconnected.
easy design!!!




For high beam solenoid, I just split from high beam lines...for now by cancelling DRL


This car has DRL that is wired to be series connection RH and LH high beam bulb. Even 6V can trigger solenoid,, I wasn't sure if that good for solenoid..
Is it OK that way?? if so,, I can have DRL as well with simplest wire work.




If not, I eventually need to make one harness that only receive "high beam" signal.
LH side high beam input polarity flips when DRL use, so diode can sort out which is high beam signal and which is DRL signal.

Just bit of work have to run to the other side,,











I think,, foreground limiter place thickness add slight space affecting beam pattern slightly,,causing same effect of "space lens out",,which was not my preferred intention.
Bit too much color at cut off center and very slight image distortion.

Here is limited bottom beam pattern



 

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Impressive write up, thank you! My HB have the same pattern as yours do in the second to last picture, they project high and centered. In this picture, is your 3 still utilizing the DRL/HB or is the bi-xenon functioning here? Not sure since it looks like your "low beams" are a HID while the "high beams" are the standard halogen.

I have to agree that the color cutoff in the center is a little less than ideal. How does it look facing down the road though? Wondering if this is negligible at distance or the wash out more apparent? Would be nice if the limiter didnt restrict as much light going down towards the road though.

Overall very impressed!
 

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PS - if your "wonderful friend" is ever looking for more friends to donate parts like this to, I am available :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Impressive write up, thank you! My HB have the same pattern as yours do in the second to last picture, they project high and centered. In this picture, is your 3 still utilizing the DRL/HB or is the bi-xenon functioning here? Not sure since it looks like your "low beams" are a HID while the "high beams" are the standard halogen.

I have to agree that the color cutoff in the center is a little less than ideal. How does it look facing down the road though? Wondering if this is negligible at distance or the wash out more apparent? Would be nice if the limiter didnt restrict as much light going down towards the road though.

Overall very impressed!


Do you have S grand touring model with factory Bi-Xenon? (with LED DRL )

Min is just aftermarket projector, so if yours is OEM Bi-Xenon set up, it should have much desired proper output.


Yes, my set up uses 9005 Halogen High beam along Bi-Xenon high beam.
Bi-Xenon solenoid even triggers at 6V ( our DRL run LH and RH high beam bulb in series), wasn't sure what kind of solenoid spec,, so in case of stressing system, I just cancelled DRL by

http://www.mazda3forums.com/906-ext...897-how-disable-activate-drl.html#post9857849


I actually hoping color at cut off to be LESS.
I don't like too much of blue, violet flicker, it almost as intense as BMW i3 kinds those LED projector flicker.

I will take some picture for color band view later.
It's pretty intense...

And I also prefer soft cut off by frost textured projector lens.
Cut off line seems to be too distinct. I like easy transition from lighted area to dark.

Just a preference.


I purposely limit foreground lighting by making limiter.
Light up right in front of you only pupil to close up to adjust immediate close illumination level.
That cause distance view relatively weak.

Amount limited by shield I made is still minimum.
It more like to prevent undesired light pattern portion hit inside of headlight bezel to cause funky scatter or glare.
 

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You just made my day! I will be doing this the second I get home. Could make the install of a standard HID HB system a lot easier if you dont need to worry about the dang DRL's flickering all the time. Simple fix with CANBUS but rather not go through the hassle.

I dont have a 3s, just a 3i GT so standard halogens but I have upgraded to a TRS HID kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I see, so you have regular halogen headlight set up.

HID high beam will be bit of conflict, as HID system will take like 20 seconds to warm up, and hot strike is not easy on system.
I always go for Bi-Xenon if I want HID high beam

But as long as you have good duration you can have high beam ON usage, I guess it won't be much of concern.


Were you able to cancel DRL?
 

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Were you able to cancel DRL?
Worked like a charm! Now I just need to figure out how to do the mod with the DRL's into the turn signals. However instead of having both the turn signals and the high beam bulb function as DRL's, I could disable DRL's and use the TNS (Parking lights) to power these on!

Confusing, I know but I think it would look sick to run the parking lights through the turn signals and remove the DRL's altogether.

Thank you soo much for that. I love it now :)
 
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