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Discussion Starter #1
I just got a call from my dealer, my car is in for the 30k mile maintenance.

They say they need to clean the fuel injection system which will cost around 99.95
Also, remove and clean the throttle body, which is 71.95
New air filter, 21.00
Machine the rear roters and replace the break pads - 269.40
30k mile maintanence 49.95
Total: 512.25

This seems a bit high to me...

note: The reason I take my car to the dealer is they offer an extended warrenty through the dealership if I do my maintenance through the.
 

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[quote author=teh_winnar link=topic=66996.msg1150283#msg1150283 date=1168869435]
I just got a call from my dealer, my car is in for the 30k mile maintenance.

They say they need to clean the fuel injection system which will cost around 99.95
Also, remove and clean the throttle body, which is 71.95
New air filter, 21.00
Machine the rear roters and replace the break pads - 269.40
30k mile maintanence 49.95
Total: 512.25

This seems a bit high to me...


note: The reason I take my car to the dealer is they offer an extended warrenty through the dealership if I do my maintenance through the.
[/quote]
Thats a rip off!!! The ONLY thing to do at 30k is a new air filter. You can do that yourself it easy. As for the brakes, ONLY replace them if they need it. Most of the time you DO NOT need to machine rotors. Just put new pads on. As for the other stuff, Id find a new place to service your Mazda. At 30k there is not much at all to do, 99% of it is a oil change and air filter.
 

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[quote author=teh_winnar link=topic=66996.msg1150283#msg1150283 date=1168869435]
remove and clean the throttle body, which is 71.95
[/quote]

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
 

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[quote author=teh_winnar link=topic=66996.msg1150283#msg1150283 date=1168869435]
I just got a call from my dealer, my car is in for the 30k mile maintenance.

They say they need to clean the fuel injection system which will cost around 99.95
Also, remove and clean the throttle body, which is 71.95
New air filter, 21.00
Machine the rear roters and replace the break pads - 269.40
30k mile maintanence 49.95
Total: 512.25

This seems a bit high to me...

note: The reason I take my car to the dealer is they offer an extended warrenty through the dealership if I do my maintenance through the.
[/quote]

what is the 30k maint for 49.95? that sounds fishy, sounds like a bottle of tune-up lol
 

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also if your rotors are warped and in need of machining that should be warranty i belive which depending on how much they charge to do that should have you 50-100 bucks. Also it sounds like they are trying to charge you twice atleast our fuel system cleaner is a 3 part and we clean the throttle body and injectors and have an additive for the tank all in 1 kit. Don't do something you dont want to for your warranty if you did the 30k thats 49.95 and an airfilter you would be covered just fine thats $70 bucks. Every dealership has their own "30k" but if you don't like it then ask them a price on what in the manual only which sounds like it should be $70 from that dealership.
 

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[quote author=teh_winnar link=topic=66996.msg1150283#msg1150283 date=1168869435]
I just got a call from my dealer, my car is in for the 30k mile maintenance.

They say they need to clean the fuel injection system which will cost around 99.95
Also, remove and clean the throttle body, which is 71.95
New air filter, 21.00
Machine the rear roters and replace the break pads - 269.40
30k mile maintanence 49.95
Total: 512.25

This seems a bit high to me...

note: The reason I take my car to the dealer is they offer an extended warrenty through the dealership if I do my maintenance through the.
[/quote]

1) If you use a Top Tier gas (Chevron, Texaco, Shell) you will never need to clean the injectors or TB.

2) New Wix air filter is about $14, and you can do it yourself.

3) They have no way of knowing if your rear brakes need work until they have inspected them. Do you have pedal pulse? Do you have rear brake squeel? Are there grooves in the rotor? Have you inspected the pads yourself?

If you have been maintaning your car like you should (oil/filter changes, tranny fluid, air filter) I don't see any reason for this "30,000 mile tune up".


Darryl
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm a computer guy, not a car guy, so I really don't know the first thing to look for.

2) I'm not really worried about 7 bucks for the filter, it's not worth my time to install it for 7 dollars, when it's already in the shop.

3)Pedal pulse? No idea what that is, but assuming from the name, I don't believe so.
My breaks squeal in the morning when it's cold, but other then that, no.

Keep in mind, the 30k maintenace is only 49.95
These other things are things they noticed (Breaks /rotors they said they noticed while rotating my tires)
Now they did say I could probably go for awhile longer on the breaks, but they said it might damage my rotors if I waited to long and they would need to be replaced then.

Another reason I'm taking it to the dealership is that I know the owner personally. Do you think I should talk to him about it?

Also keep in mind, that I know how business's work, there is extra cost involved taking it to a dealership because they have to pay for employee insurance and such, where as the average garage down the street doesn't.
 

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[quote author=teh_winnar link=topic=66996.msg1150592#msg1150592 date=1168884526]

I'm a computer guy, not a car guy, so I really don't know the first thing to look for.

2) I'm not really worried about 7 bucks for the filter, it's not worth my time to install it for 7 dollars, when it's already in the shop.

3)Pedal pulse? No idea what that is, but assuming from the name, I don't believe so.
My breaks squeal in the morning when it's cold, but other then that, no.

Keep in mind, the 30k maintenace is only 49.95
These other things are things they noticed (Breaks /rotors they said they noticed while rotating my tires)
Now they did say I could probably go for awhile longer on the breaks, but they said it might damage my rotors if I waited to long and they would need to be replaced then.

Another reason I'm taking it to the dealership is that I know the owner personally. Do you think I should talk to him about it?

Also keep in mind, that I know how business's work, there is extra cost involved taking it to a dealership because they have to pay for employee insurance and such, where as the average garage down the street doesn't.

[/quote]

when it comes down to it, its your money and wont hurt anything by doing the work they suggest. You are correct as to the extra cost about taking it to the dealership. There is a tsb out for the rear brake noise also.
 

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My dealership wanted 475$
trans flush...
Coolant check
Brakes
Oil and air filter change
tire pressure check
belt check
and lube
.....
I do my own oil changes....which in the long run ends up more than the dealership
(I use mobil 1 and add BG MOA oil additive and the BG 44K every oil change)
about 60 bucks an oil change, And I drive alot....it $ucks

I have redline 75W90 on the way to my house so I can change the manual trans fluid..thats was like 40 bucks for 4 quarts.

Got my new pads installed for about 200 bucks...

Lube my own stuff and check my own tire pressure...

I think the only thing I would take my car in for is a coolant change and maybe check the drive belts...not to sure how to tell if the drive belts are going bad.
but 475..seems like alot...
But I guess when it all comes together it's about the same price..

I enjoy overkill
 

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[quote author=D Bone link=topic=66996.msg1150520#msg1150520 date=1168882195]
1) If you use a Top Tier gas (Chevron, Texaco, Shell) you will never need to clean the injectors or TB.
[/quote]

Darryl,
I disagree with this statement. First of all, "Top Tier" gas is nothing more than a very well planned marketing scheme. There is no governmental regulation for a "Top Tier" fuel, it is simply a standard that a few auto manufacturers with the combined efforts of oil companies have derived to sell more gas from certain companies. This endorsement is bought and paid for dearly. The EPA requires an "LAC" (lowest additive content) for fuels and rest assured you are getting the LOWEST amount possible with nearly any of the "Top Tier" companies. Last Thursday I was at a Chrysler dealership who happened to be tearing down a new Hemi with less than 20k because the valves were not turning in the head properly and it was setting misfire codes. The back of the Intake valves had a tremendous amount of carbon buildup,( enough to cause a misfire and pre-detonation) incidentally this vehicle had only had "Top Tier" 93 octane gas.

Please answer me this.... How does a fuel (no matter what kind) keep the Throttle Body clean? It's the point of introduction for air NOT fuel (in most cases). Have you looked inside of a throttle body lately? I opened one today on a 2001 Xterra with less than 50k and it looked like a coal stove inside. This is caused by several factors , heat soak, poor air filter maint. , and crankcase vent gases and waste products.
 

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[quote author=maudi3 link=topic=66996.msg1153491#msg1153491 date=1169005458]
[quote author=D Bone link=topic=66996.msg1150520#msg1150520 date=1168882195]
1) If you use a Top Tier gas (Chevron, Texaco, Shell) you will never need to clean the injectors or TB.
[/quote]

Darryl,
I disagree with this statement. First of all, "Top Tier" gas is nothing more than a very well planned marketing scheme. There is no governmental regulation for a "Top Tier" fuel, it is simply a standard that a few auto manufacturers with the combined efforts of oil companies have derived to sell more gas from certain companies. This endorsement is bought and paid for dearly. The EPA requires an "LAC" (lowest additive content) for fuels and rest assured you are getting the LOWEST amount possible with nearly any of the "Top Tier" companies. Last Thursday I was at a Chrysler dealership who happened to be tearing down a new Hemi with less than 20k because the valves were not turning in the head properly and it was setting misfire codes. The back of the Intake valves had a tremendous amount of carbon buildup,( enough to cause a misfire and pre-detonation) incidentally this vehicle had only had "Top Tier" 93 octane gas.

Please answer me this.... How does a fuel (no matter what kind) keep the Throttle Body clean? It's the point of introduction for air NOT fuel (in most cases). Have you looked inside of a throttle body lately? I opened one today on a 2001 Xterra with less than 50k and it looked like a coal stove inside. This is caused by several factors , heat soak, poor air filter maint. , and crankcase vent gases and waste products.

[/quote]
Thats a correct statement. Gas is gas. As long as it the same octane rating. As a matter of fact. The gas that bp or shell or chevron sells or the discount gas station...Gets it all from the same place.
 
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