[Davids3]

Got it. A salvage yard we have gotten engines from just stamped a symbol into the block, like they used to do at the end of Dragnet episodes.

 

[Davids3]

Heat Tabs are very common when buying an engine from a salvage yard. That way if you have a claim, they know it was actually their engine. I think they're soldered on? Maybe brazed? Not quite sure how they're applied to tell you the truth.

Just read up on them, they are typically applied with a dab of high heat RTV. Looking at the OP picture closely it looks like RTV is used there. I personally would probably remove it and if worried reapply it elsewhere where it won't interfere with any mechanical components.

 

[Papu]

Finally back at it, starting the swap on my '07. Drained the fluids, coolant and trans fluid looked new but the engine oil was something else. The filter shows the carnage, the engine sounded like someone threw a 40 piece socket set into a dryer...

 

[theblooms]

OOF

 

[AZ-520]

That"s what my filter looked like in my mazda 3 that had a slight rattle between 3-5k rpm, I pulled each injector plug one at a time, number 4 the rattle went away. I did the fusion swap and sure enough the number 4 rod bearings spun in the old 2.3. The weird part is that the rod ends were not discolored or anything, must have caught it early enough. It is such a cool swap option with the 2.5, it is helping to keep the gen 1s on the road I found a 2014 2.5 fusion engine for 335 including core charge, the engine was listed for 2 years on car-part , gave them a 25 tip to get a pizza or something. They have an over stock of these 2.5s. Nice work on your swaps!

 

[theblooms]

I really love our Mazda5. It's a 3, but with sliding door. Really epic ride.

 

[AZ-520]

They are cool "Mini" minivans that handle very well!

 

[Papu]

No pictures yet, but did find a few differences with this 2018 2.5 over the 2015 I used for the other 5:

The temp sensor in the head is not a blind hole like the 2015, it's in the water jacket so I will need to plug the hole. I'll just knock the top of the sensor off so it'll fit under the valve cover.

Remembered that I need a new crank bolt. In the 2015 Fusion service manual it said that the diamond washers can be reused if in good condition. I just looked up the 2018 Fusion manual:

 

[Papu]

Inside of a 10k motor looks like it should.

 

[AZ-520]

Thats awesome, I did the same to the temp sensor.

 

[Davids3]

No pictures yet, but did find a few differences with this 2018 2.5 over the 2015 I used for the other 5:

The temp sensor in the head is not a blind hole like the 2015, it's in the water jacket so I will need to plug the hole. I'll just knock the top of the sensor off so it'll fit under the valve cover.

Remembered that I need a new crank bolt. In the 2015 Fusion service manual it said that the diamond washers can be reused if in good condition. I just looked up the 2018 Fusion manual: View attachment 107347

Problem is you have to use the Mazda crankshaft pulley so you still need diamond washers. Mazda recommends replacing them with new ones and I agree. They are inexpensive and why risk engine failure over such a small part? At least this would be my assumption, but does anybody have other information?

 

[Papu]

Problem is you have to use the Mazda crankshaft pulley so you still need diamond washers. Mazda recommends replacing them with new ones and I agree. They are inexpensive and why risk engine failure over such a small part? At least this would be my assumption, but does anybody have other information?

Not trying to be cheap. According to the Ford parts website, engines built after 4/2016 have the updated crank gear and do not use the washer. The gear is laser etched to provide the function of the diamond washer. They do not say anything about replacing the crank pulley along with replacing the crank gear so the crank pulley that originally had a diamond washer should be just fine using the laser etched crank gear.

The line that says the laser etched crank gear must not be used with diamond washers gives me pause. I would bet that the two surfaces do not work well together and may not achieve or hold proper torque. I don't have it apart yet. If it has diamond washers, new ones will go in. If it has the updated gear like I expect, I am not going to go against the service manual warning.

The engine and trans are out. Definitely easier than the automatic. Didn't have to remove the core support or discharge the a/c. Ziptied the compressor to the lower control arm to support it.

 

[Papu]

Got the timing tools installed on the new engine, pulled the Fusion crank pulley and it does have diamond washers. Ordered new washers. Ran the VIN of the donor car and it was built in December 2017, so according to the Ford parts site it should have had the laser etched crank gear. It didn't and I'm not going to swap the gear to try and eliminate them.

We did find one of those heat tabs on the old engine which surprised me as it means the engine has been changed once already by 116K. The tab was also melted so it got HOT. We'll have to be extra diligent on watching the temp once we get it running again, making sure the fan runs. Radiator looks good, I'm replacing the thermostat and going to run the water pump that came with the motor since it's only got 10k on it.

 

[Papu]

Got the engine and transmission separated and the clutch is DONE. Flywheel has some significant heat spots and decided to replace it.

Went to put the Fusion timing cover and oil pan on the old motor to return it for a core and found that the Fusion pan won't fit, it hits on the balance shaft. Panicked for a second, found the 5 oil pan fits the new motor.

 

[Davids3]

Swapping the oil pan is a standard part of the swap, as the Mazda 3 has a cut out in the oil pan for the AC compressor to fit.

 

[Papu]

Quite right. I did the same on the kids 2008 but I did not have trouble fitting the Fusion pan to the old engine when returning the core. To get this Fusion pan to tighten down on this old Mazda engine so I can take the core back I'd have to remove the balance shaft assembly.

 

[Papu]

Got the washers. Saw this on the way out.

 

[Downermazda]

$500 replacement engine or $112k electric truck. That’s a tough decision to make.

 

[Papu]

Cleaning up the oil pan and timing cover and looked at the oil pump pickup and saw its full of shrapnel from the old engine. I should have thought of that when I looked at the filter but didnt. I am not going to try and clean that up and risk the new engine. On the swap on the '08, the engine had blew a head gasket and the pickup was fine. A new pickup L3N514240A and o-ring are on its way. For some reason they list a different pickup for the 2006-2007 5 which is more expensive and harder to get. Engine wont be able to be assembled this weekend, but we should be able to install it next weekend. Once I finish this swap, I'll put together a new thread with part numbers and all.

 

[Papu]

Oil pump pickup came in early, also went to the yard and scored a new catalytic converter heat shield. The 2008 in the yard looked not much better but they also had a 2012 and it's made of a much better material. Fit perfectly.