[Papu]

Stupid wheel bearing is giving me more problems than the engine swap did. Pressed new one in properly and without issues, torqued it down and there is still play. Replaced the hub with a new one as I noticed the old one had an approximate .020" difference between the inner and outer diameter. It wasn't worn, there was a machined step on the hub, the diameter of the hub that rides on the inner half of the bearing was smaller and not a press fit into the bearing like the outer was.

The new hub doesn't have a step machined in it and I figured that was it so a new bearing and hub was installed and torqued down to specs. Still has a a bunch of play. The outer race is not rocking in the hub and both bearings pressed in and out smoothly so I'm at a loss. I'm about ready to go to the junkyard and get a used spindle.

The good news is I vacuumed the a/c system after replacing the bad hose, the receiver dryer and the compressor oil and it works very well. Wasn't sure if the compressor was going to be good because the high side fitting was broken off and the system had been open for who knows how long before we got the van.

 

[theblooms]

What brand bearings did you use? I used Timken, and they went in perfectly.

 

[Papu]

I don't know offhand, it wasn't Timken it was what they had locally MasterPro or something. I should probably get a better brand, I thought that hub having a step in it and not fitting tightly was the problem. I'll try a Timken and see if that makes a difference. Should have known better, I just wanted this to be done so I got what was available locally.

Edit: Ordered a Timken. Will be here Friday. One more try.

 

[theblooms]

Fingers crossed.

 

[Papu]

This stupid van is gonna be the death of me lol. Replacing the bearing turned into replacing the axle as well when the hub nut decided to gall up the threads on the CV axle. Stupid thing came off no problem when we removed them for the engine swap and I torqued it properly with a wrench but nooooo, it's gotta eat the threads.

So eighty bucks for an axle and the Timken bearing goes in without issue and doesn't have play like the other ones did. On the test drive I hear a clunk and the wheel is no longer straight. We limp it back home and find that the passenger side lower ball joint has ejected itself out of the control arm! We didn't touch that side at all.

Now it's time for a new control arm because I don't trust it to hold a new ball joint in place. Someday this thing is gonna leave here!

Still happy with the Fusion swap. This stuff now is just working bugs out of an old car with no history.

 

[theblooms]

At least there's pretty much nothing left to fail at this point!

 

[Davids3]

It's actually a good idea when doing a swap to consider new control arms, tie rod ends, sway bar end links, struts, etc since most of this stuff is removed and replaced to do the swap, and the parts are relatively affordable at places like rock auto.

 

[Papu]

It's actually a good idea when doing a swap to consider new control arms, tie rod ends, sway bar end links, struts, etc since most of this stuff is removed and replaced to do the swap, and the parts are relatively affordable at places like rock auto.

You are not wrong, I've learned new cheap chassis parts can be worse than used old stuff. So much no name junk out there these days and even many of the manufacturers that used to be good are just slapped on garbage parts now.

So frustrating. Definitely don't shop by price or availability if you can at all help it. Wait for good parts if you can. I'm considering OEM control arms. They're $160 each and I could get a pair or no name ones for $90 but not doing that, especially after the bearing experience. I wasted a day because of crappy parts.

 

[theblooms]

I ran Mevotech LCA's and KYB Excel G shocks with zero problems whatsoever.

 

[Papu]

I ran Mevotech LCA's and KYB Excel G shocks with zero problems whatsoever.

Perfect. Ordering a pair of those as soon as the kid gets paid. Dad fronted enough of this bill. Time for the kid to pitch in. Looks like Mevotech has two versions - the "Supreme" grade looks a lot better than the standard one and one of the few with a greaseable ball joint and all new hardware That's nice to see and well worth the $12 extra over the standard grade IMO.

 

[Davids3]

You are not wrong, I've learned new cheap chassis parts can be worse than used old stuff. So much no name junk out there these days and even many of the manufacturers that used to be good are just slapped on garbage parts now.

So frustrating. Definitely don't shop by price or availability if you can at all help it. Wait for good parts if you can. I'm considering OEM control arms. They're $160 each and I could get a pair or no name ones for $90 but not doing that, especially after the bearing experience. I wasted a day because of crappy parts.

I've had zero issues with non OEM suspension parts purchased on rock auto. I don't buy the cheapest "economy" grade they offer, but whatever looks like a good value in the "daily driver" category. I replaced all the front end parts on our 2011 when I did a clutch on it, and two years later all good. Restored the ride and steering responsiveness to brand new feel.

 

[Papu]

Mevotech lower arms are in. Drives great at 80 mph, a/c blows cold. Did wind up replacing the oil filter housing cap with a new one as the old one was leaking just a little. Gave it a bath and it's going home to the family today. Yaay!

 

[theblooms]

Outstanding! Glad everything worked for you.

 

[Papu]

Update: Got about 5K on it - no problems at all. So happy with the swap I decided to do it again for myself when I found a 2007 5 M/T this weekend on Facebook.

Has 116K on it and a bad rod knock. Receipts for 2K worth of tires, front end work and all the engine mounts in the last 5K miles. Other than the clearcoat failing on the roof and the tops of the doors its super clean. Same place I bought the other engine from has a 11K mile motor for less than $400. Let's do this!

 

[Papu]

Picked up the new engine for swap #2 yesterday. As I was putting it on the stand I noticed this. This was a good place to put the warranty heat tab? Nevermind it will interfere with the transmission mounting, but I bet this thing could get HOT before that tab melted.

Will stick this back on the truck when I take the core back and get them to move it. The Fusion intake and front cover were damaged in the accident but I dont care because I have to swap that all out anyway. 10,500 miles for $380!

 

[theblooms]

$380??!??!? SCORE!!!!

 

[Davids3]

Never seen or heard of a "warranty heat tab" How is it attached? If it were me I'd remove it and discard it. You got a great price for that motor.

 

[theblooms]

Heat Tabs are very common when buying an engine from a salvage yard. That way if you have a claim, they know it was actually their engine. I think they're soldered on? Maybe brazed? Not quite sure how they're applied to tell you the truth.

 

[Downermazda]

It also has a tab in the middle that melts when the engine gets too hot. They are usually on the head. It shows that in the event of engine failure with a melted tab the engine overheated and the salvage yard can easily deny a warranty claim

 

[Papu]

Heat Tabs are very common when buying an engine from a salvage yard. That way if you have a claim, they know it was actually their engine. I think they're soldered on? Maybe brazed? Not quite sure how they're applied to tell you the truth.

It looks like some epoxy on the back - maybe JB Weld. For Davids3, here's what an overheated one looks like.