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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi all, I tried searching for this issue on the Forum and found 75 million threads going every which way, so basically 100% stock car I bought for my 17 year old daughter, works great we love it, but at home in the driveway the alarm goes off randomly no rhyme or reason what so ever, she says it does not do it at school or at her work, we have an ASUS wireless router, I am mentioning this because I saw some posts while GOOGLING talking about interference with NetGear routers but who knows what the he11 is going on

question for you all is, would an ODBII reader show me what sensor is setting off the car alarm

please and thank you,
Greg
 

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Most likely you have a worn out door lock actuator, typically the driver door since it is used the most. This can also cause in some cases the interior lights to come on intermittently draining the battery. It is a common fail part, so much so that my dealer actually sometimes has them in stock. It is a bit of a pain to change, but well within the realm of a skilled DIY'er. Unfortunately I don't know a reliable way to test this but replacing it solved the same problem on my son's 2007. On our 2010 it caused the battery to constantly die.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
figure I'll update as I hate orphaned threads, so took the car in to the Mazda Stealership and it took them two days to diagnose and repair, I was fine with that as it proved the issue was not so simple

So what was the problem?

short answer: Passenger Door Switch

long answer: their diagnostic equipment kept reporting that multiple door switches were causing the alarm to go off, I think including the hatch, yet they were positive that none of the doors were opened, then they also suspected the body module, aka one of the CAN bus computers I guess, so I feel pretty good that it took them two days to troubleshoot it cause proves I'm not a total tool

Cost: $180 just to diagnose and tell me what's wrong

TOTAL: $585 to fix (this takes half the $180 and applies $90 of it towards the cost of the switch replacement which normally costs $585 and drops it to $495 plus the other $90 of the diagnostic cost) confused? great so was I but it ended up $585 and I don't care I love cars and I work on cars but not appliances and modern day vehicles are appliances and I despise working on them, so there you have it folks

I don't know how much the door switch costs but I would recommend you randomly replace one on your car doesn't matter which door, cause if you guess it wrong and have to replace it yourself in the other door you will still come out ahead of $600 bucks
 

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By door switch I assume that you are referring to the door lock actuator that I talked about above. By far the most common are the front doors because they are used the most. Aftermarket ones are less than $100 each, and OEM are about $140 if I recall correctly. So yes, you can replace both for less than half of what you paid, even if you guess wrong. It takes maybe an hour working carefully to replace on yourself. Probably about how much time it took you to drop off and pick up your car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
By door switch I assume that you are referring to the door lock actuator that I talked about above. By far the most common are the front doors because they are used the most. Aftermarket ones are less than $100 each, and OEM are about $140 if I recall correctly. So yes, you can replace both for less than half of what you paid, even if you guess wrong. It takes maybe an hour working carefully to replace on yourself. Probably about how much time it took you to drop off and pick up your car.
absolutely right David, the thing is after reading your original post my money was on the driver side door - so I would have replaced the wrong side, and all that cussing would have gone to waste, ha ha

but yeah even if I replaced both sides I would have come up ahead, doubt it would have taken me an hour per side, probably a weekend per door, but still, hope this info helps others out, and keeps their teenagers off their backs
 

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They apparently charged you about three or four hours labor plus the part. They really don’t have a way to test the intermittent failure of the actuator so they either got lucky or charged you enough to cover the cost of both doors. The body module you refer to receives communications from the actuators. The fact that they hypothesized it was bad is further demonstration that fixing this particular issue is one of the times that the fixer basically fires the parts cannon at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
They apparently charged you about three or four hours labor plus the part. They really don’t have a way to test the intermittent failure of the actuator so they either got lucky or charged you enough to cover the cost of both doors. The body module you refer to receives communications from the actuators. The fact that they hypothesized it was bad is further demonstration that fixing this particular issue is one of the times that the fixer basically fires the parts cannon at it.
I completely agree, but rather them than me, I only allow classic trucks to slice my forearms up as I try to reach in there to build the ships in the bottle sorta speak
 

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They apparently charged you about three or four hours labor plus the part. They really don’t have a way to test the intermittent failure of the actuator so they either got lucky or charged you enough to cover the cost of both doors. The body module you refer to receives communications from the actuators. The fact that they hypothesized it was bad is further demonstration that fixing this particular issue is one of the times that the fixer basically fires the parts cannon at it.
Do you have a part number for that?

To my understanding it has to be the white part with the two cables coming out of it. However, I'm only getting hits for the latch part itself.
 

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I bought my 2010 Mazda 3 at the end of July and I love it but it's been hell since the issue has started. Read online to get a general idea, even our mechanic read some stuff online. We probably are gonna replace the door actuator really soon, but trying other ideas as well. But before all this, we took it to a body shop where the guy banged on the metal door striker with a hammer which actually worked. However, even though the passenger door warning light didn't going off when the door wasn't opened anymore, the alarm keeps going off. Another guy said the door latch needs to be replaced while my mechanic said the whole door does. We are trying everything and it's getting better and better as we get people working on the issue, I just want it to stop cause it's annoying as hell. Thanks to everyone for all the information and I'm just glad I ain't alone going through this!
 
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