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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First time poster in need of help. I have owned a 2008 3 hatch for 5 years. fun little car. Recently my clutch master cylinder started leaking all over my floor mat and eventually gave out completely. I replaced the clutch master cylinder. The replacement went simple enough aside from the 2 hrs. of fighting with the clutch pedal assembly to get it out. After replacement I noticed that the throw on the clutch seemed way off. I figured this was just due me not bleeding the slave well enough, but I don’t think that is the case. The pressure in the pedal feels good, but even when pulling the pedal back by hand it only seems to go about half as far as it used to. I then assumed that I didn't get the master cylinder seated correctly in the pedal assembly, so I stripped it back down and tried again with the same results. The clutch pedal travel seems to stop about half as high as the brake pedal. I swear they used to be in line with one another. Has anyone else had this problem? Could it be the wrong master cylinder? The two parts looked to be the same, but the replacement was not OEM.
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Did you take a photo of old and new during the replacement, finding that the push rods were the same length?

Edit: also, what's your clutch pedal stroke now (the pedal surface when it's as far down as possible, to the pedal surface when it's as far up/released as it will go). My copy of the factory service manual says the stroke/travel should be ~135 mm (5.31 inches).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you take a photo of old and new during the replacement, finding that the push rods were the same length?

Edit: also, what's your clutch pedal stroke now (the pedal surface when it's as far down as possible, to the pedal surface when it's as far up/released as it will go). My copy of the factory service manual says the stroke/travel should be ~135 mm (5.31 inches).
Did you take a photo of old and new during the replacement, finding that the push rods were the same length?

Edit: also, what's your clutch pedal stroke now (the pedal surface when it's as far down as possible, to the pedal surface when it's as far up/released as it will go). My copy of the factory service manual says the stroke/travel should be ~135 mm (5.31 inches).
No i dont have a pic. My suspisioion is that the rods are of different lengths. I changed it over a year ago, and the mazda has been sitting since. Thanks for the info on the stroke. Ill take a look at it. Looks like i have to get it towed to a dealer ayways. The ECU is no longer recognizing the key and the immobalizer light is flashing now. I talked to two mazda techs today that were less than helpful with information regarding the ingnition. I might try one of those auto locksmiths first. See how much they want to gouge me for to spend 5 mints to reprogram my keys.
 
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