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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 3 is about 18 months old now and about 8 weeks ago it periodically won't start. It has been towed to the dealer three times. It is not the key as I have tried both keys and the light on the dash doesn't flash fast like it is a key issue. ...and here is a surprise, everytime the dealer has the car it starts. The dealership finally replaced the main relay and the next day it didn't start. They are telling me there is nothing they can do. They also told me they called the techs at Mazda and they said there is no problem with 3's not starting. When I turn the key all the lights come on and sometimes I will hear a click like the starter is ready to engage, but it doesn't. It sounds like the relay is clicking. I think it is a starter issue, but the dealer refuses to replace it unless it happens for them. Once, I let it sit and came back 2 hours later and it started right up. The dealer has it now and said Mazda told him to release the car that there is nothing they can do. So basically I will continue to get stranded until it doesn't start for them. I really like this car, but honestly I am seriously thinking about selling it and going back to Toyota's before the warranty expires. I had over 200k miles on my toyota and never had a problem. Has anyone had this problem with their 2007 3???

Additional info...
Air temperature doesn't seems to affect this condition.
I have 20,000 miles on it.
It has happened with the car warmed up and cold.
 

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ahhh the old we cant duplicate the problem crap that dealerships give us. I hate that, it happened to my boyfriends GLI and now his GTI constantly (not the same situation as you with the car not starting) but just little things he would have happen the dealership magically didnt have the same problem. Obviously in your case though there is a reason your towing the car there, so its obvious that something needs to be fixed. Just because you take your car there and then when they get their hands on it it works doesnt give them the right to say there is nothing they can do about it just because they cant have the same problem. You should call up mazda themselves and talk about the issue, tell them that if its not fixed you are being forced to trade in, sounds like they might be trying to avoid the lemon law (or is that only in a certain time frame of ownership?) I hope it will be fixed for you, it is a shame to hear. I too have a 2007 and I dont want to face the same problem in the future.
 

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Had the same problem twice, the first time within 2 months of owning the car. I would say the culprit is your battery, or something electrical. I know that each and every time it happened to me with the exact same symptoms a jump start would fix it temporarily. Maybe you should get a new battery, I plan to replace the stock one within a few months of buy my new 3.
 

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i like the idea of a new battery...getting more power delivery to the starter in case the relay is weak.

have you tried starting with a battery charger hooked up? mine has a 50 amp boost that adds to whatever the battery is putting out. that may be enough to kick the starter over. if that does it, then go get a new battery
 

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Just because you take your car there and then when they get their hands on it it works doesnt give them the right to say there is nothing they can do about it just because they cant have the same problem.
While I agree that dealers in general arent worth sticking up for, you have to understand that it costs them money to fix something. If it is under warranty they have to present the bill to Mazda in order to get reimbursed, so if there is no problem the will have to pay from their own pockety.
So if they cannot duplicate the problem, and you were ther to witness that the car started then it is only fair that they will not fix something that works as it should (may be just at the time). After all they are not charging you for the diagnostics right?

If you owned the dealership would you pay for something that is working properly when diagnosed? You have to remember that you also have customers that are dishonest, so they are just being causious.

Anyway, hope they finally reproduce the problem and fix it for you. :)
 

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Is there a possibility of going to a different dealer? Sometimes what one dealer can't fix, another one can.
 

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[quote author=Phantom3 link=topic=101364.msg2035358#msg2035358 date=1201728450]Obviously in your case though there is a reason your towing the car there, so its obvious that something needs to be fixed. Just because you take your car there and then when they get their hands on it it works doesnt give them the right to say there is nothing they can do about it just because they cant have the same problem. [/quote]

I'm not a mechanic, but I deal with customers enough on computer and software issues to know that reproducible problems get fixed while the other ones do not. The mechanics need something to go on. Granted the fix may involve some trial and error, but they aren't going to try and fix a car that displays no problems. They are not working for a non-profit business after all.
 

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[quote author=Dquestic link=topic=101364.msg2035623#msg2035623 date=1201733765]
Had the same problem twice, the first time within 2 months of owning the car. I would say the culprit is your battery, or something electrical. I know that each and every time it happened to me with the exact same symptoms a jump start would fix it temporarily. Maybe you should get a new battery, I plan to replace the stock one within a few months of buy my new 3.
[/quote]

Actually, I had this problem more than twice, and towards the end of last year it started happening very frequently, I think I got 3 jump starts in 1 month there, and that was with the same symptoms you see. Stock battery sucks IMHO.
 

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I had the exact same problem with my second generation RX-7. It ended up that the computer took a crapper. I had it replaced ($$$) and all was fine. Not saying thats the problem with your 3, just something to look into.
 

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I have the same issue with my car and i pinpointed it to the neutral safety switch. My engine won't turn over when trying to start it. If your car is automatic, next time it doesnt start, try starting it in Neutral, see if it starts then. If it does, then bob's your uncle.
 

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a few weeks after getting my 05 3i this happened too. The dealership gave me a new battery no cost, and I haven't had any problems since.
 

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I have had this problem as well.
Go home to walk my dog and turn the car off while my GF waits.
Get back in and try to start and nothing. It turns over but not firing and dont smell any gas.

It finally starts to fire, but sounds very weak, when its started I can turn off turn on no problem.

I will try changing gear positions next time it happens.

My girlfriend jokes its her, because her car has all sorts of problems, NOT A M3
 

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I am having this same problem. My 2005 3 will sometimes not start. Everything electrical, lights included, works fine. Then when I turn the key to start, nothing. I've found that I can sometimes push the shift lever in and out of park a couple times and it will then start. "P" will show up on the dash intermittently. The car will start in neutral, also. My guess is there is some sort of sensor that doesn't allow the car to be started without it being in park or neutral, and this is what is failing. It doesn't appear to be a battery or starter problem because when "P" shows up or I start in neutral, the car starts right up with little cranking. Any further thoughts and ideas would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well after the relay was replaced and it didn't start twice the day after it was fixed it has worked fine for the last year. Until today... Same exact issue. Except now I get to pay for it because the warranty expired. I had it towed in tonight. My guess is it will start right up in the morning when they look at it. I'll post the results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I lucked out! The car wouldn't start for the dealer either. It was the S-cord for the starter. (BAYO-67-SHO) $30.63 for the part $114.95 for labor.
 

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TSB: 01-09-21
2004-2008 MAZDA3 - STARTER MOTOR WILL NOT CRANK AND ENGINE DOES NOT START (INTERMITTENTLY)
APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS
2004 - 2008 Mazda3 vehicles (NOT including Mazdaspeed3)

DESCRIPTION
On some vehicles, the starter motor will not crank and the engine does not start. The problem is intermittent. This is caused by poor contact of the connector for the magnet switch terminal “S” in the starter motor.



Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following repair procedure where the connector for the magnet switch terminal “S” is replaced with a short cord set.



REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Verify customer concern.
NOTE: If the following symptoms are present, address them before proceeding.

•After turning the ignition on, the Security Indicator Light does not turn off after 3 seconds, and remains on, flashing repeatedly. This could be a sign of a frozen main relay (in extreme cold conditions) or a possible immobilizer issue. For immobilizer concerns, reference section 09-02A in the the Workshop Manual for diagnosing the system.

•On automatic transaxle vehicles with the vehicle in Park (when the condition occurs), the Shift Position Indicator Light will not be illuminated around P, and if the vehicle is shifted to N the engine can be started. This could be caused by an issue with mechanical movement of the shifter cable at the inhibitor switch, or an issue with the switch circuit.


2. Record the customer’s radio station presets.
3. Disconnect the negative battery.
4. Lift the vehicle up.
5. Remove the engine under cover.
6. Disconnect the connector from the magnet switch terminal “S” of the starter motor.
7. Clean the magnet switch terminal “S” of the starter motor, then polish it using fine sandpaper.
8. Cut the harness near the connector.


9. Cut the black wire cover off by 35 mm as shown.


10. Remove the wire covering from the harness and short cord by 10 mm as shown.


11. Twist the wires of the harness and the short cord together and solder them.


12. Cover the soldered wires with a heat shrink tube (length: 30 - 35 mm) as shown.


13. Place the solder iron close to the heat shrink tube to allow it to shrink from the heat of the solder iron.


14. Connect the short cord (with modified connector) on the magnet switch terminal “S.”
15. Tie the short cord to the main harness with the band.
NOTE: Cut off the excess portion of the band.



16. Re-install the parts in the order of removal.
17. Connect the negative battery cable.
18. Verify repair.
19. Enter the customer’s radio station presets and set the clock.
PART(S) INFORMATION


Part Number
Description
Qty.

BAY0-67-SH0
Short Cord Set
1
 

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My 3 left me with no start 2x within the past week. Lights, fans, etc. all worked fine when the key was turned, just no engine crank, not even a click. Battery is only about 2 years old. After reading this thread, I crawled underneath to look at this magnet switch. Guess what? The copper male spade connector was green with corrosion.

I put on eyeglass protection, armed myself with a brass bristle brush and a can of electrical cleaner and cleaned the male and female connections until they were shiny again.

It's only been 1 day, but the 3 started at least a dozen times without issue. Hoe this helps someone! :icspot:
 

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[quote author=perkinscl link=topic=101364.msg3728464#msg3728464 date=1279166239]
My 3 left me with no start 2x within the past week. Lights, fans, etc. all worked fine when the key was turned, just no engine crank, not even a click. Battery is only about 2 years old. After reading this thread, I crawled underneath to look at this magnet switch. Guess what? The copper male spade connector was green with corrosion.

I put on eyeglass protection, armed myself with a brass bristle brush and a can of electrical cleaner and cleaned the male and female connections until they were shiny again.

It's only been 1 day, but the 3 started at least a dozen times without issue. Hoe this helps someone! :icspot:
[/quote]

Disregard my above post, it just did it again today. I moved the gear selector to neutral (automatic trans) and it started up. :?:
 

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This happened to me before and there is bit of a tendency to happen again.

One cause of the engine will not start is the TR Switch some calls it as a Neutral Safety Switch (for Automatics). One remedy to have the car started is turn the ignition key to ON and press the brake pedal, move the gear shift to N or neutral and try to start the engine. The TR Switch needs to be cleaned, adjusted or replaced.

I also found this link thry yahoo, http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080107071218AA9OHNk

My car is acting up lately, so in order for me not to be stuck in a situation like this, I ensure that when I move the shift lever to P - Park, I see to it that the Park indicator light is on, if not, I move or giggle the shift up and down the gears until the P lights up, then I turn off the engine. It is a pain but this is one way not to call a towtruck. I'll just find time to check the contacts or connector and have it cleaned. If this will not fully address the situation, I'll have my car checked out by the dealer or replace this switch soon or before the cold months sets in.

I hope this helps. :lol:
 
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