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HELP PLS. i Have a 2004 sp23 with 156000km and has all of a sudden about 3000 ago it has started consuming oil badly. Im talking in excess of 1ltr every 500krm. I did a oil change when it first started and new oil went black as within 50 km. I have since replaced the pcv valve and not much differance, however the old valve was full of oil as was the intake. I have compression tested and gpt 204-205 accross the first 3 and 175 on the other, so i dod a wet test and it didnt change at all. Its still decent on fuel sitting around 8.5-9 ltrs to 100km.

No idea what is happening, any ideas appreciated.
 

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HELP PLS. i Have a 2004 sp23 with 156000km and has all of a sudden about 3000 ago it has started consuming oil badly. Im talking in excess of 1ltr every 500krm. I did a oil change when it first started and new oil went black as within 50 km. I have since replaced the pcv valve and not much differance, however the old valve was full of oil as was the intake. I have compression tested and gpt 204-205 accross the first 3 and 175 on the other, so i dod a wet test and it didnt change at all. Its still decent on fuel sitting around 8.5-9 ltrs to 100km.

No idea what is happening, any ideas appreciated.
If you did a compression test and one cylinder is 15% off from the other three, then you should have some idea what is going on.

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If you did a compression test and one cylinder is 15% off from the other three, then you should have some idea what is going on.

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Well im not sure as im not a mechanic, yes theres alot i can do on the car though. I have spoken to several people and some are saying that its not too bad of a reading as its just under 15% and mazda allows upto 28psi difference on these engines which its sitting pretty much at. Someone said rings on that cylinder, so yeah i dont know. And it blows no smoke apart from a bit few of black fuel smoke at high revs.
 

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How did your spark plugs look, specifically? What about the tops of the pistons? Plenty of oil in a cylinder?
 

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And it blows no smoke apart from a bit few of black fuel smoke at high revs.
That oil has to be going somewhere. Do you still have a catalytic convertor? How does your coolant look? Can you take a pic of all your plugs next to each other?

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How did your spark plugs look, specifically? What about the tops of the pistons? Plenty of oil in a cylinder?
The spark plugs were worn out all four of them and replaced when the oil was done. I will be pulling them out in the next day or so to have another look at them. When they were last taken put about 4 weeks ago cyl 4 with the lower compression was dry.
 

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That oil has to be going somewhere. Do you still have a catalytic convertor? How does your coolant look? Can you take a pic of all your plugs next to each other?

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Yep car is stock. Coolant is fine and hasnt been touched in the time inhave owned it. I did forget to mention the massive amount of air pressure coming out the oil filler hole on idle as well
 

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Is your undercarriage especially oily? Have you left a piece of cardboard under the engine bay while sitting, to assess for drip/leak points?
about 3000 ago it has started consuming oil badly. Im talking in excess of 1ltr every 500krm. I did a oil change when it first started and new oil went black as within 50 km. I have since replaced the pcv valve and not much differance, however the old valve was full of oil as was the intake. I have compression tested and gpt 204-205 accross the first 3 and 175 on the other, so i dod a wet test and it didnt change at all. Its still decent on fuel sitting around 8.5-9 ltrs to 100km.
More questions:
  1. How many miles/kilometers did you have it before you recognized the excessive oil consumption?
  2. What was the rate of consumption prior to this increase?
  3. How did you recognize the "sudden" consumption? The oil pressure light?
  4. Are you still getting oil into the intake, from the PCV?
  5. Manual or automatic? Have you been able to assess for a rear main seal leak?
  6. What viscosity of oil do you use?
  7. Do you have the cartridge-type oil filter? No signs of leaking from that?
The factory service manual notes that standard compression for the L3 engine (2.3L) is 199.1 psi (290 rpm); minimum is 139.2 psi; and the maximum difference between cylinders is 28.5 psi.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Is your undercarriage especially oily? Have you left a piece of cardboard under the engine bay while sitting, to assess for drip/leak points?


More questions:
  1. How many miles/kilometers did you have it before you recognized the excessive oil consumption?
  2. What was the rate of consumption prior to this increase?
  3. How did you recognize the "sudden" consumption? The oil pressure light?
  4. Are you still getting oil into the intake, from the PCV?
  5. Manual or automatic? Have you been able to assess for a rear main seal leak?
  6. What viscosity of oil do you use?
  7. Do you have the cartridge-type oil filter? No signs of leaking from that?
The factory service manual notes that standard compression for the L3 engine (2.3L) is 199.1 psi (290 rpm); minimum is 139.2 psi; and the maximum difference between cylinders is 28.5 psi.
I havent had to add any oil before this between the only other oil change it has had as ive only had it a bit over a yr now. I noticed it was low about 4 mths after the last change which would have been about 5000km at most. 1ltr bottle took it to just under max. It took about a mth to drop back down again just above min and it did look pretty dirty so it was given a oil and filter change. It is cartidge type. While i was under therer i had a good look under it and there was a very small amout of oil under it, but nothing worth worrying about.
Its never had an oil pressure light on.
At the same time i did the oil the spark plugs were changed as well as it developed a bit of a rpugh idle and seemed to be down a little power wise.
The first plug had a little oil on the threads from a small rocker cover leak and the electrode was pretty worn. The other 3 were dry on the threads and the electrodes were worn too. It had castrol edge 5w30 put in when it was changed.this was done 1st sept 2020 It has probably gone another 4000Km now and has had probably 10 ltrs extra in it since then. Its auto. There has never been a drop of oil under it on the ground, its parkednthe same place everyday.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I havent had to add any oil before this between the only other oil change it has had as ive only had it a bit over a yr now. I noticed it was low about 4 mths after the last change which would have been about 5000km at most. 1ltr bottle took it to just under max. It took about a mth to drop back down again just above min and it did look pretty dirty so it was given a oil and filter change. It is cartidge type. While i was under therer i had a good look under it and there was a very small amout of oil under it, but nothing worth worrying about.
Its never had an oil pressure light on.
At the same time i did the oil the spark plugs were changed as well as it developed a bit of a rpugh idle and seemed to be down a little power wise.
The first plug had a little oil on the threads from a small rocker cover leak and the electrode was pretty worn. The other 3 were dry on the threads and the electrodes were worn too. It had castrol edge 5w30 put in when it was changed.this was done 1st sept 2020 It has probably gone another 4000Km now and has had probably 10 ltrs extra in it since then. Its auto. There has never been a drop of oil under it on the ground, its parkednthe same place everyday.
The other thing was the oil went dark black within 100kkm of changing. I would put it into a mechanic but i was put of work due to covid andi have 4 kids at home so times are very very tough.
 

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Sounds to me like yet another garbage 2.3 failure. I would start researching the Ford Fusion 2.5 swap. It is inexpensive and a great way to upgrade and revitalize a failed 2.3 liter Mazda 3.
 

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I havent had to add any oil before this between the only other oil change it has had as ive only had it a bit over a yr now. I noticed it was low about 4 mths after the last change which would have been about 5000km at most. 1ltr bottle took it to just under max. It took about a mth to drop back down again just above min and it did look pretty dirty so it was given a oil and filter change. It is cartidge type. While i was under therer i had a good look under it and there was a very small amout of oil under it, but nothing worth worrying about.
Its never had an oil pressure light on.
At the same time i did the oil the spark plugs were changed as well as it developed a bit of a rpugh idle and seemed to be down a little power wise.
The first plug had a little oil on the threads from a small rocker cover leak and the electrode was pretty worn. The other 3 were dry on the threads and the electrodes were worn too. It had castrol edge 5w30 put in when it was changed.this was done 1st sept 2020 It has probably gone another 4000Km now and has had probably 10 ltrs extra in it since then. Its auto. There has never been a drop of oil under it on the ground, its parkednthe same place everyday.
You might consider taking the info from your first post, and the answers to my questions with your above reply, and post your issue on Reddit's /r/MechanicAdvice subreddit. Given your financial/home situation, they may help you get to a clearer diagnosis, so you're less likely to throw time and money at the wrong things.

I'm purely amateur at this sort of issue, but I wonder if your oil control rings are worn out. Per the service manual, if the PCV is OK, if there's no external leakage, the dipstick is correct (remember to check the oil level with the engine warm, car on level surface, after sitting off for 5min), and the oil viscosity is correct (5W-30 should be fine, it's even in the owner's manual as an alternative if 5W-20 isn't available), then:

Inspect the internal engine parts such as valves, valve guides, valve stem seals, cylinder head drain passage, and piston rings. [emphasis added]

If the piston rings are worn, more oil would be left on the cylinder walls and exposed to combustion (resulting in accelerated degradation, blackening from combustion breakdown/by-products). Worn compression rings would also be consistent with the "massive" pressure you've got coming through the oil filler, and may explain excess oil forced through the PCV valve. But, like I said, consider casting your net into /r/MechanicAdvice to get more feedback, before you decide where to put your money (whether it's into repairs, a replacement engine, or another car).
 

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I did forget to mention the massive amount of air pressure coming out the oil filler hole on idle as well
Yep, that's a bad ring or ringland. You should have no pressure or some vacuum at the oil fill, NEVER pressure. The engine will most likely need to be rebuilt to solve the oil consumption issue.
 

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Yep, that's a bad ring or ringland. You should have no pressure or some vacuum at the oil fill, NEVER pressure. The engine will most likely need to be rebuilt to solve the oil consumption issue.
Do not, I repeat do not rebuild this poorly designed engine. The 2.5 liter is a far superior design and an easy upgrade. They are available at literally any decent salvage yard since the Ford Fusion uses the same exact block. Low mileage donors can be bought for $200-400. Compare that to $2,000-3,000 plus installation for a decent rebuild.
 

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Do not, I repeat do not rebuild this poorly designed engine. The 2.5 liter is a far superior design and an easy upgrade.
I don't doubt that there's something amiss with the intake-air and lubrication designs of the 2.3L engine... In your opinion/understanding, what is the specific failure mechanism? In my browsing forums and videos over the years, I've gleaned some indication the PCV design producing insidious oil level drops that accelerate wear, but I haven't found a definitive explanation of the root cause.
 

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Do not, I repeat do not rebuild this poorly designed engine. The 2.5 liter is a far superior design and an easy upgrade. They are available at literally any decent salvage yard since the Ford Fusion uses the same exact block. Low mileage donors can be bought for $200-400. Compare that to $2,000-3,000 plus installation for a decent rebuild.
He's in Australia so that might not be as easy to do as it is in the states. He also has an 04 which is the most difficult year to do the swap on.
 

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I don't doubt that there's something amiss with the intake-air and lubrication designs of the 2.3L engine... In your opinion/understanding, what is the specific failure mechanism? In my browsing forums and videos over the years, I've gleaned some indication the PCV design producing insidious oil level drops that accelerate wear, but I haven't found a definitive explanation of the root cause.
I have no idea the cause specifically, but the relatively high failure rate of the 2.3 motor, and Mazda’s discontinuation of it in favor of the more durable 2.5 are all I need to know.
 

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He's in Australia so that might not be as easy to do as it is in the states. He also has an 04 which is the most difficult year to do the swap on.
It’s not like he’s in a third world country. Further the Mazda 3 sells way better in Australia than here, recently it was the top selling car there. There should be plenty of knowledgeable people there. So long as he can source a donor 2.5 he should be good to go. So the 04 is a little harder? Where there’s a will there’s a way.
 

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Yep, that's a bad ring or ringland. ....
What is your opinion of the compression test results that the OP posted, especially the part about no change when oil was added into the cylinders? When I read that, it didn't seem bad enough to me to be the cause of the oil usage he described.

Not saying you're wrong, because your the pro and I am not. Just puzzled by what he posted.
 

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What is your opinion of the compression test results that the OP posted, especially the part about no change when oil was added into the cylinders? When I read that, it didn't seem bad enough to me to be the cause of the oil usage he described.

Not saying you're wrong, because your the pro and I am not. Just puzzled by what he posted.
The fact that he said there was a lot of air coming out of the oil fill is why it sounds like rings. There isn't really another way for that kind of thing to happen. The compression tests look good aside from that one cylinder which, while it tested good, is still down by more than an acceptable amount compaired to the others. A compression test doesn't tell everything either, You can have good compression but and unacceptable amount leakage. He really needs to do a leakdown test as well, I just didn't think to mention it when I made my original post.
 
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