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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yea yea I know this car isnt for drag racing-blah blah but I have fun doing it and got this car very close to the 12's with only a stainless works catless dp and Cobb SRI for power mods. Other mods include SU MM, TWM shifter, H&R springs, and 16" V6 mustang wheels with 225/50-16 Hoosier DR's. I accidentally ran the dr's at 24 psi (dont ask) and didnt know until I got home so I know I can better the 60ft. No other mods whatsoever and stock boost. I must admit I am very impressed with this car coming from nothing but rwd V8's. This car was supposed to be just a daily driver to get decent mileage but owning a shop its very hard not to screw around with what you drive. Anyways heres some pics along with the last dyno pulls I did with before and after the dp.





 

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Wow, very nice numbers. Obviously you know how to launch the car well.

Curious, why is your X-axis plotted as speed instead of RPM? And did you monitor AFR before and after too?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yea somehow when I changed the file from the winpep software to a jpeg it saved speed at the bottom instead of rpm which is a 2 sec fix but o well-also it graphed hp and torque seperate-obviously I am not the computer guru around the shop. as for a/f yea I did log it but didnt include it bc its basically a stock curve. starts around 12.5 around 3k and dips into the 10's up top.
 

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Sweet..... :bigok:
 

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are all 4 tires DRs?
 

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nice time, but i have to argue that that's not exactly "just" a dp and intake, the drag radials probably had as much if not more to do with it as the intake and dp. still, ever so close to 12's
 

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i know you are running drag radials but what rpms did you launch at?
i want to run my ms3 at the gainsville speedway and i'm not too sure on where to launch from without losing too much traction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I played around with launch all night since im still getting used to this fwd thing and best was about 3500-4k slipping clutch quickly as in almost a clutch dump. I agree the DR's helped but my previous best 60 ft on stock tires was 2.09 so not even a 2/10th improvement which I expected more. As i said the pressure was high so with that corrected I think I can get into the 1.8's and very very close to 12's.

As for doing more-I am seriously contemplating a small dry shot like a 25 only for more consistent Boost temps and a little more power. Thinking about building a fmic also and then theres the tuning, cdfp issue at that point.
 

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[quote author=mgmsIII link=topic=139601.msg3010531#msg3010531 date=1237772893]
I played around with launch all night since im still getting used to this fwd thing and best was about 3500-4k slipping clutch quickly as in almost a clutch dump. I agree the DR's helped but my previous best 60 ft on stock tires was 2.09 so not even a 2/10th improvement which I expected more. As i said the pressure was high so with that corrected I think I can get into the 1.8's and very very close to 12's.

As for doing more-I am seriously contemplating a small dry shot like a 25 only for more consistent Boost temps and a little more power. Thinking about building a fmic also and then theres the tuning, cdfp issue at that point.
[/quote]

I'd think you would want to do a wet shot, so the fuel is pre-metered with the nitrous if sprayed from the intake pipe, or TB. Dry shot assumes regular fuel injection pressures (40-50) and raises pressure as it sprays the nitrous. With our direct injection motor pushing 1600-1700+, I don't see that happening. You might have more luck with a direct-port wet setup tapped to the intake manifold.
 

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i say u get a fmic tune and fp and u will see 12s
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
[quote author=Sinitron link=topic=139601.msg3011327#msg3011327 date=1237817833]
[quote author=mgmsIII link=topic=139601.msg3010531#msg3010531 date=1237772893]
I played around with launch all night since im still getting used to this fwd thing and best was about 3500-4k slipping clutch quickly as in almost a clutch dump. I agree the DR's helped but my previous best 60 ft on stock tires was 2.09 so not even a 2/10th improvement which I expected more. As i said the pressure was high so with that corrected I think I can get into the 1.8's and very very close to 12's.

As for doing more-I am seriously contemplating a small dry shot like a 25 only for more consistent Boost temps and a little more power. Thinking about building a fmic also and then theres the tuning, cdfp issue at that point.
[/quote]

I'd think you would want to do a wet shot, so the fuel is pre-metered with the nitrous if sprayed from the intake pipe, or TB. Dry shot assumes regular fuel injection pressures (40-50) and raises pressure as it sprays the nitrous. With our direct injection motor pushing 1600-1700+, I don't see that happening. You might have more luck with a direct-port wet setup tapped to the intake manifold.
[/quote]

I know what you are saying and completely understand but the dry shot im talking about would be run independent of the fuel system and would not have a controller to try and raise fuel pressure. I believe there is enough room to work with in the existing a/f ratio to compensate for a small shot (25) of nitrous without leaning out dangerously. I have a bunch of nitrous parts laying around the shop and am thinking of using this to control the activation http://www.wilsonmanifolds.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=36 .
I also own a dyno so I can do alot of testing to make sure I am safe. Also the other thing is if going to a wet shot where would I tap for fuel since it needs to be before the cdfp?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
[quote author=VOGAD19 link=topic=139601.msg3013852#msg3013852 date=1237905948]
hey hows the ride with the wheels?? is it more soft and comfortable, my gf keeps complaining everytime she ride in my car
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LOL yea it rides a little better but the rear tire on driver side would rub every time I shifted-I have the fat guy mod FTL!
 

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[quote author=mgmsIII link=topic=139601.msg3011621#msg3011621 date=1237826310]Also the other thing is if going to a wet shot where would I tap for fuel since it needs to be before the cdfp?
[/quote]

Anywhere from the in-tank pump / tank... all the way up to the CDFP. you can just tap the line, or fab in a "T" just like any other car.

I understand your concept, but I'm guessing the motor will survive on a pure dry-shot without additional metered fuel for too long. The A/F's in this car are pretty accurate when crusing and in boost. When Nitrous breaks down in cylinder pressures, it releases oxygen in at least a 2:1-4:1 ratio, allowing for available extra fuel to be combusted. Without that extra fuel, I think it will spike way lean... real fast. Try it if you dare... be sure to post the dyno run w/ A/F curve so we can see what it looks like!
 

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lol buy my cryo kit and slap it on there. see if that helps any :) you can fab up a FMIC with the IC.
 
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