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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 5-speed 06 Mazda 3 with the 2.0L engine. It's making a terrible knocking noise but doesn't sound as fast as a rod knock according to someone I talked to, who mentioned some magic loose bolt somewhere he couldn't elaborate on. Anyway, it's a loud engine knock, and loss in power. I'm going to either tear down and repair or rebuild the engine, or just do a swap if it isn't too difficult. What swap options do I have and what's involved in them? Could I go to the 2.3L motor for some more performance, or even the 2.5L for performance and reliability?
 

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I have a 5-speed 06 Mazda 3 with the 2.0L engine. It's making a terrible knocking noise but doesn't sound as fast as a rod knock according to someone I talked to, who mentioned some magic loose bolt somewhere he couldn't elaborate on. Anyway, it's a loud engine knock, and loss in power. I'm going to either tear down and repair or rebuild the engine, or just do a swap if it isn't too difficult. What swap options do I have and what's involved in them? Could I go to the 2.3L motor for some more performance, or even the 2.5L for performance and reliability?
Kind of the same scenario. Bad rod and planning to replace the engine assembly as a whole. I'm looking on ebay as well as car-parts.com, which is a salvage yard "hotline" setup.
I'm following this thread as I too have questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Kind of the same scenario. Bad rod and planning to replace the engine assembly as a whole. I'm looking on ebay as well as car-parts.com, which is a salvage yard "hotline" setup.
I'm following this thread as I too have questions.
At this point I'm considering an engine rebuild. I did a transmission a couple years ago and it wasn't nearly as hard as everyone was saying it would be. The 2.0L and 2.3L share the same block and piston size, but the 2.3L uses a longer rod from my understanding, explaining the displacement difference. Forged internals with a bore would increase the displacement and allow a turbo to run safely without excess wear as well, allowing a very significant increase in HP. While the engine is out, a stainless or aluminum flywheel and stage 3 clutch could be installed quite easily. At this point I'm still trying to find an engine at a reasonable price point. Everyone seems to be selling with "free shipping" when it costs a couple hundred bucks to deliver one. I wanted to know motor options and whats needed to install them before changing the motor completely. I know I'll need the ECU and wiring harness, but beyond that I don't know. I don't want to get into the install and realize I need to make new mounting brackets because I don't have CNC machine and don't want to make it all with a homemade drill press and a grinder. Lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, I finally dropped the oil pan. The rod closest to the drivers side was loose because the bearing snapped in 2 and rotated around. The engine running seems to have flattened it out because it's thinner and wider than the other bearings on the other rods. So it appears I need to replace the bearings that connect the rods to the crankshaft. I found a set of connecting rod bearings on RockAuto for $25 plus tax and shipping, but I also found a set of crankshaft bearings. I don't know 100% which ones I need. I'm thinking it's the connecting rod bearings, and the other kit includes the same bearings plus the main bearing for the crankshaft itself? Anyway, I'm going to order them as soon as I can, and I'll let you guys know how it goes. If anyone has any tips on how to make this repair easier, I'm all for it. Lol.
 
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