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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just replaced ball joints with the clips . Has anyone had issues with the ball joints still having play like in between the clip and the control arm? If u ask me it’s like it almost needs spot welds to hold tight. I can feel the car lifting slightly and setting back down when I get on the gas.also when going over bumps. Everything was replaced control arms are tight . Has new tie rod and stabilizer bar new shocks new bearings. Everything is new only thing that I can see is the ball joints have that little bit of play between them and the control arms can that be spot welded???
 

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I have never heard of just replacing the ball joints. I didn't even know they were available separately. To an individual car, every time that work has been done, people replace the entire lower control arm.

Where did you get the ball joints? They probably aren't right, because our ball joints are straight, not tapered. If you got tapered joints, that would definitely explain what's going on.
 

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I have never heard of just replacing the ball joints. I didn't even know they were available separately. To an individual car, every time that work has been done, people replace the entire lower control arm.

Where did you get the ball joints? They probably aren't right, because our ball joints are straight, not tapered. If you got tapered joints, that would definitely explain what's going on.
They're available separately. The kicker is getting a ball-joint press to remove and replace. I almost went that route when I did them on my car but figured the PITA of that wasn't worth it, so I replaced the control arms.
 

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The control arms are 3 bolts in and out. I just can't see wasting time messing with replacing the joints, especially when you can get high quality Mevotech complete LCA's for under $40 each, which includes new bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah well I would have if I would have seen them that cheap at the auto part store they were 240 bucks for new control arms and 35 for ball joint so do the math I did what needed done. But now it was a waste cause the ball joints are still not good. So I’m stuck welding or buying new control arms bull crap. How about this I take them off and take control arms back to the shop that pressed them I. And make him replace it cause they are the ones who said they were ok when it’s really not and my front end still feels like crap and it has all new everything
 

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Yeah well I would have if I would have seen them that cheap at the auto part store they were 240 bucks for new control arms and 35 for ball joint so do the math I did what needed done. But now it was a waste cause the ball joints are still not good. So I’m stuck welding or buying new control arms bull crap. How about this I take them off and take control arms back to the shop that pressed them I. And make him replace it cause they are the ones who said they were ok when it’s really not and my front end still feels like crap and it has all new everything
I got my LCA's from RockAuto, both of them for like $75 including shipping. I had them both swapped out in like 30 minutes, literally 5 minutes on the driver's side, and 25 on the passenger, before I figured out that I could simply lift the passenger side motor mount to clear the front bolt.

Going back now after I figured that out, I bet I could do both sides in under 20 minutes, in and out.
 

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You can also drop the AC compressor. I didn't want to do that.
It's been so long ago since I replaced them that I do not remember what I did. Then again, I was replacing control arms, struts, tie rods -- THE WORKS. I think I did that all at the same time I replaced the rear control arm bushings. Unlike most Mazda peeps, I purchased the correct tool for the job and then sold it. I wasn't going to fart around building Rube-Goldberg devices in an attempt to extract the old bushing and then insert the new one.
 
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