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A non- sky active trough 2013 should work, engines from 2003-2013 fusions, escapes are all pretty much the same. Must be a duratec. The fusion and escape engines are cheaper and and easier to source. This is a home mechanic type job, most shops would be un-willing to attempt this, if they did they would pocket the savings if they sourced the engine.
 
I'm not sure if we would do a motor swap in a newer car or not. Its impossible for us to know off hand the differences between various engines and what needs to be done to swap it into a car it wasn't designed for. Then we are on the hook if it doesn't work correctly. However, if you had a list of the differences and what needs to be done we might do it. We have no problem with people sourcing their own parts. Just this week a customer sourced their own rebuilt transmission and had us install it. The one thing we won't do is source a cheaper engine and charge you for the more expensive one.
 
Thats what I mean, hard to find a shop willing to do the job. It could turn into a nightmare/ research pig for you. Best to leave it to the home mechanics, that would never take there cars to a shop to get bend over:chuckles:
 
My left overs are. 2.3 longblock minus oil pan timing cover intake cam crank pully oil pickup. Thats about it i reused pretty much every thing.

Left over ford bits
Intake manifold, oil pan, oil pickup, oil filer housing, intake cam exhaust manifold ignition coils, flywheel cam sensor, temp sensor, oxygen sensor
I'm in the middle of a swap now - 2011 Fusion 2.5 (15k miles) replacing the rod-knocking 2.3 (154k) in my '05 Mazda 3 hatchback mtx.

It's going well so far but I have a couple of questions, if someone could verify please.

1) I'm trying to decide whether to use the 2.3 or 2.5 valve cover. I'd like to use the 2.5 coils because of the lower mileage but am not sure about the compatibility of the 2.5 coils with the 2.3 valve cover and vise-versa, or even if the 2.5 coils will work with the Mazda 3's electronics. I can't tell for sure whether thlillyr used the 2.5 coils but in one place he said he had the ford coils left over, so maybe he used the 2.3 coils?

2) I just saw where Artem Vestsorov posted on 12-18-2014 on the happywrenching thread the following:

"I'll say one more thing about the 2.5 swap - technically yes it can be done. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but everything that I have read states that the 2.5 cylinder head has larger intake ports and a different intake manifold. So, if you use your Mazda intake manifold, you'll get a slight air leak because the manifold won't seal correctly with the larger ports. Or, if you use the Fusion intake manifold you will set off the check engine light."

I test fitted the 2.3 intake to the 2.5 head and the intake is VERY close to not completely covering the larger ports on the 2.5 head. Can anybody that has actually done the swap comment on the possible intake leak issue that Artem posted? I'm worried that I'll end up with an intake leak either immediately or somewhere down the road.

Thanks
 
^ Why does the fusion intake manifold set off the CEL?

I'm pretty certain the you've got to use the 2.5 valve cover because of the dipstick routing.
 
I too have the same concerns of a leak due to the misfit, also would I be able to use a auto and bolt it to my manual? but most importantly I would like to know if anyone can give me some advice before I pull the trigger and dedicate time and money for this project... What would be the best year and model motor to buy? Im pushing 150K car is a daily driver (driven hard) zoom zoom... I would like to drop a newer motor in and begin to mod the shit out of it, I really like the idea of this swap, everyones input and these threads are an awesome source for me to gain the info I need, thanks guys!!
 
Newest 2.5 duratec you can find from a fusion/ escape. Auto or manual does not matter, they are listed that way because manual has a flywheel and auto has a flex plate. Not sure if you can use the fusion flywheel, but must you find will be autos anyway. Swap over your flywheel anyway. There has to be a way to keep the ford intake manifold ?? Make sure you have all the old components hooked up, even if the are no bolted to the manifold.
 
It's the timing cover swap necessary on the 2.5? The op if this thread said that he did swap it. The only thing I can think of is because the guide the op used was for putting a Fusion 2.3 into a Mazda 6 that had a 2.3, instead of a Fusion 2.5 into a Mazda 3 2.3.

The guy that did this article didn't mention anything about putting the Mazda timing cover on the 2.5.


http://www.timlabute.com/mazda-3-2-5-swap/
 
guys, this is a really simple swap, and infact could be called a bolt in on the Mazda3. we have done over 50 of them in the last few years since the 2.5 came out.

The real trick to this is that you need to make sure you use the correct sensors. Most change is you get the ford engine, or stay the same if the engine is mazda in origin.

On the early cars, it takes a bit of work to re calibrate the ecu to make decent power with the late, lower CR, larger displacement engine. And yes the displacement makes quite a bit of difference in the calibration.

BTW, its FAR EASIER to remove the engine and driveline IF you do it the factory way..............out the bottom
 
So what kind of power have you seen from the 2.5 once you tune them?
 
Im looking to do a swap when my current motor (150k) goes boom which running ok I would say. Im taking the time to do the research and gather thoughts and ideas for the swap, I was wondering if I were to buy headers for my 2004 2.3 if they would fit onto the mew 2011 or so 2.5 ? seems like most of the parts will work with the 2.5 swap so Im crossing my fingers I can buy myself nice headers NOW! thanks in advance :chuckles:
 
It's the timing cover swap necessary on the 2.5? The op if this thread said that he did swap it. The only thing I can think of is because the guide the op used was for putting a Fusion 2.3 into a Mazda 6 that had a 2.3, instead of a Fusion 2.5 into a Mazda 3 2.3.

The guy that did this article didn't mention anything about putting the Mazda timing cover on the 2.5.


http://www.timlabute.com/mazda-3-2-5-swap/

No one that's done this swap has any input on this? Why are some people saying that you have to switch the timing cover and some are not switching it yet have no issues?
 
^Why is this even an issue? When you get the 2.5 it will have a timing cover already on it. If it doesn't work you swap the one from your old 2.3/2.0 onto it.

The only resion it wouldn't work is you do have to swap the 2.3/2.0 crank pulley onto the 2.5. If that pulley is incompatible with the 2.5 timing cover then the covers would need to be swapped.
 
^Why is this even an issue? When you get the 2.5 it will have a timing cover already on it. If it doesn't work you swap the one from your old 2.3/2.0 onto it.

The only resion it wouldn't work is you do have to swap the 2.3/2.0 crank pulley onto the 2.5. If that pulley is incompatible with the 2.5 timing cover then the covers would need to be swapped.
I'm just wondering because some people say you need to do it and some people don't mention it. It would be the same if there were people that said that their swap runs perfect with the 2.5 intake manifold and throttle body.

Your point about the crank pulley is valid. Just need someone that's done the swap to confirm that this is necessary.

I'm planning on getting all the necessary swap parts from a junkyard 2.3 and swapping them into the 2.5 before I pull my car's motor. My 2.3 is still running like a champ and I plan to sell it complete after swapping the 2.5 in.
 
Any solutions with the intake manifold not lining up? My 2005 2.3 intake won't quiet line up with my 2.5 and we use the 2.5 intake manifold we're just getting CEL all over the place.

Today we'll be using the 2.5 intake with a 2.3 throttle body. Anyone confirmation?
 
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