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Thread: DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics (Updated 10-21-2009) Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
04-01-2020 03:43 PM
Originally Posted by Slablog View Post
I can't get that oil change guide link to work.
03-14-2020 11:03 PM
Outrider6 Dead link in OP. Can someone fix it, or if not, would a moderator please remove this entire post? Kind of senseless having it posted as a sticky, if it doesn't work.
12-15-2019 01:44 PM
Link Won't Work

I can't get that oil change guide link to work.
03-26-2019 01:18 PM
theblooms 0W-20.
03-25-2019 11:11 PM
veezthree I have a used 2012 Mazda 3i and live in northern California where the weather is rather warm.

Would I be able to use 5w30 or should I buy 0w20?
09-08-2012 09:20 PM
DrWebster Many folks here have used the OEM Mazda filters with great results, as they're of good quality. There's no real need to "match" the oil brand to the filter brand. Other brands people have had good experiences with are Wix and Purolator.

As to if there is anything special about changing the oil on a Sky-G engine, I don't believe there is. Drain old oil out, replace filter, put new oil in. I haven't been under one of the new 3's yet so I don't know what size socket you'd need for the oil pan drain plug.
09-08-2012 07:18 PM
2012 Skyactiv-G Filter choice


I'm the proud owner of a new 2012 Mazda3 iTouring, with the 2.0L Skyactiv-G engine. I'm very happy with it, and want to keep it in the best condition possible.

I'm still under 1000 miles, but when I get there I'm planning to change the oil and filter. I'm new to Mazda, and although I'm mechanically able, I've not done my own oil changes before.

The manual specifies 0W-20 and I know the factory oil is full synthetic, but I can't find anywhere that the manual calls out the type or specifications of the filter.

My question is, which filter should I use? I'm planning to use Mobil 1 0W-20 Synthetic oil, and I thought it might be a good idea to match the brand of filter with the brand of oil. I figured that would at least reduce the number of choices, but

sells over 100 different Mobil 1 oil filters...

Could someone point me in the right direction? The guide at the beginning of this thread assumes a cartridge type filter, but I'm fairly sure the 2012's use a threaded type. Beyond that, I'm rather at a loss.

I'd sure appreciate as detailed an answer as possible. What brand of filter should I be looking at, and why? What are the properties of a "good" filter? Am I correct that I need a cylindrical threaded type? What's the difference between those 109 different Mobil 1 filters? Are there specialty tools which are mandatory? Is there a "how-to" resource (like the guide at the beginning of this thread, but for my type of engine) that I could reference? What am I likely to do wrong or not know about?


P.S. I'm a semi-professional photographer, and I've written a number of F.A.Q. and "HowTo" materials on other subjects. If there's a need for one, perhaps as I collect this information, I could contribute to a "How to change the oil in your Skyactiv Mazda" resource.
09-06-2012 05:00 AM
shilpinator I don't mean to dig this.. but I just changed my oil today, and I think i filled too much :S
The jug said 4.4L, and i dumped it all in.
After driving around for a few minutes, and then letting it sit for another few, the dipstick read basically up to the "M" of "Max" (see pic)
is it alright?

11-07-2011 06:36 AM
Re: DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics (Updated 10-21-2009)

Torque that bolt to 23-30 ft lb.
11-06-2011 09:42 PM
balding geezer
Re: DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics (Updated 10-21-2009)

The factory oil filter was pretty tight on my car and I needed a wrench to remove it. For subsequent oil changes I have been able to remove the filter by hand. If you squeeze hard enough it will crush a bit and you can get a good grip.

I do have one of these oil filter wrenches and it works very well for filters which are on really tight or in a location where you cannot easily remove them by hand. It fits on a 3/8" ratchet and has a cam arrangement which tightens the jaws as you turn the filter counter-clockwise.

I'm sure there is a specified torque value for the drain plug but I just tighten it til it feels like it won't come loose, probably something like 15-20 ft-lb, if I used a torque wrench, about as tight as I'd tighten a spark plug, nowhere near as tight as a wheel nut. The oil pan is aluminum so you need to show some restraint - only one hand on the wrench and no need to brace your feet to get extra leverage, if you fart you've got it too tight.
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