DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics (Updated 10-21-2009) - Page 41 - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum
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post #401 of 413 (permalink) Old 11-05-2011, 12:27 AM
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Re: DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics (Updated 10-21-2009)

I've replaced the crush washer every time that I've changed the oil myself (first three changes were at the dealership). Main reason for that is because I know a guy who used to work at a Honda dealership and he gave me around 10 of them before he left.

I believe I got the #94109-14000 drain plug gaskets documented in this thread, but I'm not sure since I just got them bulk with no receipt.
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post #402 of 413 (permalink) Old 11-05-2011, 02:04 AM
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Re: DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics (Updated 10-21-2009)

They're meant to be reused. I'd say change every 3-5 changes, mine was starting to get out of shape so I picked up a new one for I think a buck at the dealership. I would say do a visual inspection and replace as necessary.

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post #403 of 413 (permalink) Old 11-06-2011, 06:34 PM
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Re: DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics (Updated 10-21-2009)

Got a 2005 2.0 Automatic. Couple questions:

In most cases are the spin on filters easily removed? Not sure which tool I need.
And is it mandatory to put the drain pan bolt to a specific torque or just tight?

Thanks.
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post #404 of 413 (permalink) Old 11-06-2011, 09:42 PM
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Re: DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics (Updated 10-21-2009)

The factory oil filter was pretty tight on my car and I needed a wrench to remove it. For subsequent oil changes I have been able to remove the filter by hand. If you squeeze hard enough it will crush a bit and you can get a good grip.

I do have one of these oil filter wrenches and it works very well for filters which are on really tight or in a location where you cannot easily remove them by hand. It fits on a 3/8" ratchet and has a cam arrangement which tightens the jaws as you turn the filter counter-clockwise.



I'm sure there is a specified torque value for the drain plug but I just tighten it til it feels like it won't come loose, probably something like 15-20 ft-lb, if I used a torque wrench, about as tight as I'd tighten a spark plug, nowhere near as tight as a wheel nut. The oil pan is aluminum so you need to show some restraint - only one hand on the wrench and no need to brace your feet to get extra leverage, if you fart you've got it too tight.
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post #405 of 413 (permalink) Old 11-07-2011, 06:36 AM
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Re: DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics (Updated 10-21-2009)

Torque that bolt to 23-30 ft lb.

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post #406 of 413 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 05:00 AM
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I don't mean to dig this.. but I just changed my oil today, and I think i filled too much :S
The jug said 4.4L, and i dumped it all in.
After driving around for a few minutes, and then letting it sit for another few, the dipstick read basically up to the "M" of "Max" (see pic)
is it alright?

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post #407 of 413 (permalink) Old 09-08-2012, 07:18 PM
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2012 Skyactiv-G Filter choice

Hi!

I'm the proud owner of a new 2012 Mazda3 iTouring, with the 2.0L Skyactiv-G engine. I'm very happy with it, and want to keep it in the best condition possible.

I'm still under 1000 miles, but when I get there I'm planning to change the oil and filter. I'm new to Mazda, and although I'm mechanically able, I've not done my own oil changes before.

The manual specifies 0W-20 and I know the factory oil is full synthetic, but I can't find anywhere that the manual calls out the type or specifications of the filter.

My question is, which filter should I use? I'm planning to use Mobil 1 0W-20 Synthetic oil, and I thought it might be a good idea to match the brand of filter with the brand of oil. I figured that would at least reduce the number of choices, but


sells over 100 different Mobil 1 oil filters...

Could someone point me in the right direction? The guide at the beginning of this thread assumes a cartridge type filter, but I'm fairly sure the 2012's use a threaded type. Beyond that, I'm rather at a loss.

I'd sure appreciate as detailed an answer as possible. What brand of filter should I be looking at, and why? What are the properties of a "good" filter? Am I correct that I need a cylindrical threaded type? What's the difference between those 109 different Mobil 1 filters? Are there specialty tools which are mandatory? Is there a "how-to" resource (like the guide at the beginning of this thread, but for my type of engine) that I could reference? What am I likely to do wrong or not know about?

Thanks!

P.S. I'm a semi-professional photographer, and I've written a number of F.A.Q. and "HowTo" materials on other subjects. If there's a need for one, perhaps as I collect this information, I could contribute to a "How to change the oil in your Skyactiv Mazda" resource.

Last edited by Anglave; 09-08-2012 at 07:24 PM.
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post #408 of 413 (permalink) Old 09-08-2012, 09:20 PM
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Many folks here have used the OEM Mazda filters with great results, as they're of good quality. There's no real need to "match" the oil brand to the filter brand. Other brands people have had good experiences with are Wix and Purolator.

As to if there is anything special about changing the oil on a Sky-G engine, I don't believe there is. Drain old oil out, replace filter, put new oil in. I haven't been under one of the new 3's yet so I don't know what size socket you'd need for the oil pan drain plug.


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post #409 of 413 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 11:11 PM
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I have a used 2012 Mazda 3i and live in northern California where the weather is rather warm.

Would I be able to use 5w30 or should I buy 0w20?
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post #410 of 413 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 01:18 PM
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0W-20.
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