DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics (Updated 10-21-2009) - Page 12 - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum
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post #111 of 412 (permalink) Old 03-23-2006, 07:10 PM
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Re: DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics

[quote author=Phy link=topic=3597.msg629935#msg629935 date=1143131073]
Do you even have to remove the under-panel when changing oil on the 2L? From what I understood, the infamous hole that's off-center for the 2.3 was placed perfectly for the 2.0.

(I know it's probably a good idea anyway, just to take a look at the bottom of your motor...)
[/quote]

You still have to remove the panel on the 2.0L.
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post #112 of 412 (permalink) Old 03-29-2006, 11:59 PM
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Re: DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics

Did my second DIY oil change on the MZ3 today (two other oil changes were by dealer). Now that I have the right filter wrench, it was easy removing it. I just held up a small round oil drain pan as close to the drain plug hole as possible, keeping it a little further out in anticipation of the oil stream being pressurized. After the initial pressured oil stream reduced, i put the oil plan on the floor. Not a drop spilled on the driveway.

One thing I did notice is that the two tabs holding the cowling (plastic shield) were missing, and no doubt the dealer's mechanic failed to put them back on. Makes me mad and more determined that future oil changes will not be done by anybody else but myself. Also there was an oil stain on the engine plastic cover around the oil filler cap. My guess here is that the mechanic who did the last change did not remove the cover and just poured new oil into the filler, with some spilling on the engine cover. Not a real problem as far as the missing tabs and oil stain are concerned, since the 7 bolts are sufficient to hold the shield in place, and the oil stain can be washed off with special degreaser/detergents. But it goes on to show you that you cannot trust your dealer to give your car the same loving care you would.

At the same time I changed my air filter. It only had 17,000 miles on it and upon inspection, it was quite clean. The upper pink side was very clean and the bottom white side showed slight graying from dirt. The box was even cleaner still with no debris. The only dusty road I drove on was a 5 mile detour over gravel road behind other cars on a visit to the ghost town of Bodie. I could have driven another 5K to 7K miles using the same filter, but decided that, at $20, I got good mileage and performance from it and it is a small investment for clean air. Oil used was Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W-30 at $4.50/qt. at Costco.
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post #113 of 412 (permalink) Old 04-13-2006, 04:18 PM
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Re: DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics

Anyone know the part numbers for 3rd party companies - Purolator, K&N, generic, etc.??? Mazda stealership's too far away. Sorry if it's been mentioned in the thread already.

His: 2004 Subaru STI | Hers: 2004 Mazda 3
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post #114 of 412 (permalink) Old 04-15-2006, 09:40 PM
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Re: DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics

In case anyone's wodnering.. the part # for the Purolator regular (NOT the pure one) oil filter is L15505

His: 2004 Subaru STI | Hers: 2004 Mazda 3
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post #115 of 412 (permalink) Old 05-15-2006, 10:20 PM
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Re: DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics

This FAQ is useful, but how does it fit under the Visual / Audio section?

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post #116 of 412 (permalink) Old 05-15-2006, 11:27 PM
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Re: DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics

That's a nice guide. I've done the oil changes on my 6i and now I've done 2 on my 3s, one at 400 miles, and one at 3000.

I worked at Jiffy Lube in high school and college and this is one of the cars that the pit guy would hate to work on. The plastic shroud is a pain and so is the internal filter.

Like many of you, I have a "phobia" of taking this car anywhere for oil changes. Actually, it's not really a phobia, because the fear of someone screwing up the oil change on the 2.3L isn't unreasonable.

If you can do it, I'd do it yourself.

For what it's worth, I don't use a torque wrench for oil changes. I've done so many, my elbow clicks when the plug and filter cap are tightened enough .

Seriously though, if you replace the drain plug washer every time, you shouldn't need a torque wrench because you can feel the new washer crush, and when it stops crushing, it's tight enough. It doesn't take much at all. You can't tell with an old washer, because it's already crushed.

The filter, I just snug it up hand tight. Not too tight. Until the elbow clicks.

There are things I do use torque wrenches for, like tightening lugs after rotating the tires.

2006 Mazda3s Touring, manual trans, titanium gray metallic, moonroof/6 disc, build date 11/05
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post #117 of 412 (permalink) Old 05-24-2006, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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Re: DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics

[quote author=charles link=topic=3597.msg722261#msg722261 date=1147746029]
This FAQ is useful, but how does it fit under the Visual / Audio section?
[/quote]

Maintenance & Care is a subforum of Visual/Audio, now why that is I don't know


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post #118 of 412 (permalink) Old 05-25-2006, 10:01 PM
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Re: DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics

[quote author=Mazda6guy link=topic=3597.msg722361#msg722361 date=1147750039]
Seriously though, if you replace the drain plug washer every time, you shouldn't need a torque wrench because you can feel the new washer crush, and when it stops crushing, it's tight enough. It doesn't take much at all. You can't tell with an old washer, because it's already crushed.
[/quote]

Just a note - neither my oil drain plug nor my transmission check/fill plugs have crush washers on them. They appear to be pretty standard steel washers and appear very different from the crush washers I had picked up. Your mileage may vary.
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post #119 of 412 (permalink) Old 05-26-2006, 04:13 PM
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Re: DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics

[quote author=Mazda6guy link=topic=3597.msg722361#msg722361 date=1147750039]
Seriously though, if you replace the drain plug washer every time, you shouldn't need a torque wrench because you can feel the new washer crush, and when it stops crushing, it's tight enough. It doesn't take much at all. You can't tell with an old washer, because it's already crushed.
[/quote]

Probably shouldn't re-use washers anyway. Or o-rings. Fortunately all the filters I've gotten from the dealer came with both included.


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post #120 of 412 (permalink) Old 06-28-2006, 10:08 PM
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Re: DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics

I recently purchased one of each at Advance Auto Parts and both come with new o-rings:

Purolator Premium part# is L15505, about $5.
Purolator PureONE part# is PL15505, about $8.

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