c_thur's Slow-T-F build - Page 2 - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum
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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-08-2015, 06:20 PM
Grand Am Series
 
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Location: Baxley's Speed Shop
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Im completely lost on what needs to happen on Friday. Josh was saying my class id needed to be different. Got letters from the stc civic that I think are legal, but need a f. I'm assuming the only other requirement is the tr on the windshield but need to read up.

They supply the banner right?


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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-08-2015, 06:21 PM
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Josh runs his 24/7 I think. But me isn't ma.


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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-08-2015, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
Le Mans: Prototype Class
 
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Location: New England
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I believe you need: Tirerack windshield banner, spokewheel SCCA front, SCCA solo on each front door and SCCA tour on each front door. Plus number and class of appropriate size and stroke width. Then any contingency decals, which vary.
Friday is just an evening tech and course walk I think. From what I've read you can grab any required decals for Sat/Sun at the SCCA table.

2011 Graphite Mica Mazda3 sSport 6-spd MTX
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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-10-2015, 01:05 PM
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Garage
Tech will have all the stickers you need, including contingencies. I'm not sure if they have the Mazda stickers though but you'd need to be registered with them already anyhow.

Friday is pretty casual. You can walk the course, eat a little and chill out. I'll have windex you can use and can help apply the banner as it is really a two person job. I should be there by 4ish. We'll see if that actually plays out or not.

Don't be worried. It's suppose to be fun


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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-10-2015, 01:11 PM
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Also make sure you log in to scca.com and register under each applicable contingency!

Mazda is a bronze so you don't register through scca.com, but tire and brake pad contingencies are through scca


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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-10-2015, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
Le Mans: Prototype Class
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: New England
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Awesome, thanks! I would definitely accept the help of a practiced hand for the decal.

Plans for tonight are to replace the exhaust tunnel brace and do a brake fluid flush and bleed.

Love/Hate relationship with the RB springs. They're definitely not auto-x or track stiff, but that's fine as I'm in compromise mode right now. During shakedown, I was able to drive them on Mass pavement (passive potholes actively trying to kill you), normal/smooth pavement, grooved pavement and a smooth gravel road akin to a rally stage. The asphalt was also a mix of dry, light rain and wet-just-after-rain.

I almost think they are not stiff enough for the drop they offer...I hope I stay off the bump stops. I'm also not sure the handling increase is worth the tradeoff of perceived harshness.

Below 20mph the drive feels the almost same as OEM springs on the Bilsteins. I'm guessing the low speed damping overpowers them here. You only notice a little more umph going over things like speedbumps.
20-40 they boing around more than the OEM+B6s. It's not too unpleasant...and its largely because the roads around here are terrible. I feel the OEM+B6 combo offered much more composed/controlled car behavior here. On smooth roads they are only a little bit shakier.
40-45mph and up they feel exactly the same as the OEM+B6s.
Above reasonable highway speeds they move around a little bit. Will wait for more track time to confirm.

So why did I put them on at all? Because I had a specific need I wanted to address, and I already had the springs. In slaloms I was really keeling over, and I hoped to add a bit of resistance to that. The springs add a smidge of resistance and also drop my CoG by just under an inch, so why not?

There is a bit more resistance to body roll. I like that. I'm not sure what the recovery oscillations are going to be like yet.

I can slalom around a bit more and a little faster before the traction control light illuminates. I think this is due to the increased rear camber and not the roll stiffness.

I also noticed a few other characteristic changes...I'm not sure if they are entirely due to the springs or if it's because the alignment may be off now (front toe specifically?). The car is harder to steer with the throttle at street speeds. On the street I usually only turn my wheel once in and once out, and do everything else with the gas. I'm used to picking a line and lifting subtly to point the nose in and then applying a little more to get out. The car does not react to this at all unless I'm aggressive with it.

With traction control off I tried to wag the tail around a bit. I didn't try it IN the light rain, but once I'd driven past the storm I tried it on some residually wet pavement. Couldn't get it to slide around at. all. Need to correct the camber for sure. Getting gas I put my hands on the front and rear tires. Front tires were warm edge to edge. Rears were only warm on the inside 2/3. Outside 1/3 were cool/cold.

I think with the OEM 17x7s I could adjust the camber back out to 1.7 which is where I was starting to like it. However will this rub during compression when I put the 17x7.5 225/45s on?

Scheduled to have the alignment checked out Friday. I am going to see if I can cheat in the mean time with a digital level.

I am going to get a set of SPC arms this weekend, but to put on after the tour. For the tour I could try a set of mazdaspeed arms available locally, but I think they are designed for >26mm drop. I'm not sure where they'd leave me with the RBs. If I do nothing, I will just up the RSB from "soft" to "medium" and ask them to to set 0 toe in front and a smidge in for the rear.

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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-17-2015, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
Le Mans: Prototype Class
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: New England
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Awesome time at the champ tour. Day one felt good. Day two I dropped the ball for sure. 119/177 PAX overall.

Need to go on a diet...



Need more camber or less weight (or both!). Running high front pressures is taxing the fronts for sure.



Looking forward to installing camber arms in the rear to try and get that back down from 2.2 to whatever tucks. 1.8-1.6 hopefully. Also going to try dialing up the rear bar to the stiff notch to match the slightly stiffer springs. Watching Charles and Dannys videos gave me rotation envy. It was very absent at this event except on extreme liftoff.

Going to dig out my GoPro and look for my suction mount before the next event.

Wonder if there is a way to get a gen1 fujita to work with a gen2 2.5, since I already have it. Otherwise I'll wait and possibly get a corksport, since I can leave the OEM lower tract in place. Makes putting the factory box back in really quick for any inspection.

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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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Does anyone know, with a fair bit of certainty, the MAF housing diameters for the MZR?
Googling seems to have turned up 62.4mm for the 2.3, 68mm for the 2.5, but I haven't been able to find anything for the 2.0.

I have a Fujita CAI which is 2.75 but pinched to 2.5" at the MAF. It was for the 2.3, but worked well on the 2.0. I was going to throw it on the 2.5 for the heck of it...but I think it would be a bit too small and too rich. There is a disturbing lack of CAI options for this generation---it's all SRI.

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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 01:40 PM
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Would it be of any help if I measured my stock maf housing for you? Im not 100% sure what you are after. Could you just pull your maf out of the hole and measure the tube id?


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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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I'm mostly curious about the 2.0. People used to run 2.3 parts on 2.0s all the time without CELs. If they are the same, well that explains that. If they are different it sort of demonstrates what the fudge factor or tolerance the computer can compensate for. Granted running a 2.3 on a 2.0 (if smaller) would lean it out, not richen it up....I'm just wondering how bad it would be for the 2.5. I'm expecting the intake to flow a bit more than stock anyway, so maybe it would sort of balance itself out. 5mm is more than I guessed it would be though. Thinking of going to the CS SRI+OVT...but the underhood temps after repeated runs are scary high for an SRI.

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