Awesome, thanks! I would definitely accept the help of a practiced hand for the decal.
Plans for tonight are to replace the exhaust tunnel brace and do a brake fluid flush and bleed.
Love/Hate relationship with the RB springs. They're definitely not auto-x or track stiff, but that's fine as I'm in compromise mode right now. During shakedown, I was able to drive them on Mass pavement (passive potholes actively trying to kill you), normal/smooth pavement, grooved pavement and a smooth gravel road akin to a rally stage. The asphalt was also a mix of dry, light rain and wet-just-after-rain.
I almost think they are not stiff enough for the drop they offer...I hope I stay off the bump stops. I'm also not sure the handling increase is worth the tradeoff of perceived harshness.
Below 20mph the drive feels the almost same as OEM springs on the Bilsteins. I'm guessing the low speed damping overpowers them here. You only notice a little more umph going over things like speedbumps.
20-40 they boing around more than the OEM+B6s. It's not too unpleasant...and its largely because the roads around here are terrible. I feel the OEM+B6 combo offered much more composed/controlled car behavior here. On smooth roads they are only a little bit shakier.
40-45mph and up they feel exactly the same as the OEM+B6s.
Above reasonable highway speeds they move around a little bit. Will wait for more track time to confirm.
So why did I put them on at all? Because I had a specific need I wanted to address, and I already had the springs. In slaloms I was really keeling over, and I hoped to add a bit of resistance to that. The springs add a smidge of resistance and also drop my CoG by just under an inch, so why not?
There is a bit more resistance to body roll. I like that. I'm not sure what the recovery oscillations are going to be like yet.
I can slalom around a bit more and a little faster before the traction control light illuminates. I think this is due to the increased rear camber and not the roll stiffness.
I also noticed a few other characteristic changes...I'm not sure if they are entirely due to the springs or if it's because the alignment may be off now (front toe specifically?). The car is harder to steer with the throttle at street speeds. On the street I usually only turn my wheel once in and once out, and do everything else with the gas. I'm used to picking a line and lifting subtly to point the nose in and then applying a little more to get out. The car does not react to this at all unless I'm aggressive with it.
With traction control off I tried to wag the tail around a bit. I didn't try it IN the light rain, but once I'd driven past the storm I tried it on some residually wet pavement. Couldn't get it to slide around at. all. Need to correct the camber for sure. Getting gas I put my hands on the front and rear tires. Front tires were warm edge to edge. Rears were only warm on the inside 2/3. Outside 1/3 were cool/cold.
I think with the OEM 17x7s I could adjust the camber back out to 1.7 which is where I was starting to like it. However will this rub during compression when I put the 17x7.5 225/45s on?
Scheduled to have the alignment checked out Friday. I am going to see if I can cheat in the mean time with a digital level.
I am going to get a set of SPC arms this weekend, but to put on after the tour. For the tour I could try a set of mazdaspeed arms available locally, but I think they are designed for >26mm drop. I'm not sure where they'd leave me with the RBs. If I do nothing, I will just up the RSB from "soft" to "medium" and ask them to to set 0 toe in front and a smidge in for the rear.
2011 Graphite Mica Mazda3 sSport 6-spd MTX