Stickertuner's stf Attempt at autocross - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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Smile Stickertuner's stf Attempt at autocross

Sooooo as some as you may know I am not a serious person so I take all this with a grain of salt but ya I figured I would keep you guys up to date on my sticker tuned 2010 mazda3 gt hatch.

So first "winter" event results here:
https://axwaresystems.com/axorm/file...01_fin2013.htm

I was the only stf guy there and I only did 4 runs cu I had to work

Second day here:
https://axwaresystems.com/axorm/file...022013_fin.htm

Keep in mind I a newb to autox and I switched back to oem pads cuz my EBC's were just to much brakes for my driving ability .

Any wayzzzz enjoy!

14' Mazda3/axela corksport short ram intake + 2 1/4" muffler delete.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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Haha just realized they didn't even put me down on the first day haha

14' Mazda3/axela corksport short ram intake + 2 1/4" muffler delete.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
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Correction 1st day here https://axwaresystems.com/axorm/file...at%201_fin.htm

Ugh

Second day here https://axwaresystems.com/axorm/file...at%202_fin.htm

14' Mazda3/axela corksport short ram intake + 2 1/4" muffler delete.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 04:22 PM
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If your local region offer an autocross school, attend. They will coach you (hopefully one on one) on how to get the most out of your car. If that isn't an option, find a fast FWD guy (another guy with your car would be optimal, but at least a FWD guy) with a little experience, be polite and introduce yourself, and ask for pointers. Most autocrossers are pretty humble, and will happily help out a new guy as long as he doesn't act like an asshat.

Always remember these points.

1. A fast guy in a slow car is faster than a slow guy in a fast car. The car can almost always go faster than you can.

2. 90% of mods made by people autocrossing less than a year make the car slower, or place it in a class in which it is not competitive. Tighten up the loose nut behind the wheel first.

3. There is no replacement for seat time. If there are multiple regions within driving distance of you, attend them all (most regions close to each other do not run races on the same weekend, so that they don't compete with each other for members.) In my local area, Cenla and Delta region SCCA are pretty close, so for the first year I attended 24 events instead of just 12. I, as a result, improved much faster than my friends that only went to Cenla. Drive, drive, drive, and drive some more.

4. Enjoy yourself, it's the most fun you can have with your clothes on without caging/roll bar'ing your car.

2007 Phantom Purple hatch; JBR RMM/busihgs/shifter plate, Koni STR.t's, Michelin Pilot AS3's, Spin on oil filter conversion, stubby antenna, Kenwood KDC-X997 hu + Sundown Audio SA12 + Infinity speakers + JL 320.4 amp, debadged and door edge guards removed, Lamin-X + indy fog mod, aluminum AC knobs, DIY SRI, TRS 5000K HIDs, more coming.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Oh ya this autox club is by far the friendliest club I found.i for sure am attending our "school" to help tighten the stripped nut behind the wheel.. It's not just loose any more haha. But ya I am going to build it up this winter.. Going to go through corksport for everything. Something about parts being designed for the car instead of a generic part that just happens to fit sounds good to me..

14' Mazda3/axela corksport short ram intake + 2 1/4" muffler delete.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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By build I mean corksport coilovers and new wheels/tires and maybe just maybe a dynotronics reflash for better acceleration

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-18-2014, 01:06 AM
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Well make sure you read the rulebook. 7.5 inch rim is as wide as you can go in STF along with 225 width tires. I wouldn't move to sticky tires/coilovers until you can reach the limits of whatever is on there. The stickier rubber can sometimes cover up some of those mistakes.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-18-2014, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice �� I will keep that in mind. What wheels do you guys recommend? I really like the forged wheels but I don't like the price haha.

Where can I find an up to date mid vs class chart or do those even ever change?

Oh and we decided on what to do with the miata for now
Doing the cam seals crank seal timing belt and components water pump and calipers pads rotors and brake hoses all from O'Reilly then we went with the koni coil over kit with h&r springs and 15x7 tr motorsports c1 wrapped in 195-50-r17 Dunlop direzza dz102 (good getting to know the car tire) we also went ahead and got the full energy suspension master bushing kit .

I went with Wagner thermo quiet pads bosh quiet cast rotors and I believe the hoses are brakbest ( assume it's an "in house" brand ) and the coil overs are on tire racks we sight .. They are the st-r or something like that .. Non adjustable.. So total money into it including buying it and taxes ect is 4000$ so far so I think I am doing alright on it but ya that's for another forum ��

14' Mazda3/axela corksport short ram intake + 2 1/4" muffler delete.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 11:02 PM
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For the 3 the biggest things I have found that make it work are suspension upgrades, wheels and tires.

I like the 17x7.5s and some 225/45-17s. Front camber is VERY important. I ran mine on just wheels and tires and it was still crap. At the very least get some corksport front camber plates and a big rear bar. I'd call corksport to make sure they will fit your front struts.

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2013 MS3
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