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post #21 of 175 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 04:14 PM
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Thanks for the info fella's. I guess I'm a little concerned about how going so stiff in the rear is going to affect the balance of the car with a big rear sway. Right now with stock springs, big hotchkis rsb, and some toe out the car feels well balanced with a slight propensity for oversteer. I fear going really stiff on the rear spring rate, added front end grip from more negative camber and the big rear bar will result in a very loose, oversteering car that I won't be able to properly rein in even with alignment changes. With big rear bar I'm thinking perhaps 350f/350r and 0 rear toe would be a good starting point.... Any opinions?

Which brings me to another question, what is better? Lots of rear spring rate with small rear bar, or less rear spring rate with big rear bar?

Last edited by Adam3s; 11-13-2013 at 04:23 PM.
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post #22 of 175 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 04:55 PM
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Are you on the softer setting with the Hotchkis? If that's the case I would say look into the Tripoint Race bar, even on stiffest it isn't as stiff as the hotchkis, but it if you do end up with stiffer rear springs it gives you more adjustablity.

I'm not going to jump into saying which would be better, but one thing to also consider about going to stiffer springs is unlike just a stiffer sway vs soft springs, you also have to think about how that stiffer spring will react 100% of the time, vs a sway bar which is only during turns. Think power on, braking, etc. how will the stiffer rear spring affect all of that.

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post #23 of 175 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 05:16 PM
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The way I see it though... for Autocrossing, I would go with a softer setup, as you guys have FAR less smooth surfaces than tracks do, to me that is more than enough to think having a tire in contact is far more important than.. the tire being off the ground because you hit a small bump and there's no traction left.

If I were to put an opinion on it, that's how I would look at it.

& to reverse from that.. if you're planning on going to stickier tires or even slicks, I would say stiff springs would be the way to go.

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post #24 of 175 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 10:06 PM
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Awesome to see GC jumping in the MZ3 market!

...anxiously awaiting pics of the rear spring perch arrangement.
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post #25 of 175 (permalink) Old 11-14-2013, 09:44 AM
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I would say it's more important to have powerful damping over the stiff springs. Like Nuse said, autocross lots tend to have their share of unsettling bumps, decent damping will allow the car to glide right over without unsettling the car.


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post #26 of 175 (permalink) Old 12-13-2013, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mazda3az View Post
They initially recommended an "aggressive" spring rate for me (525f/650r) but after reading ClemsonMZ3's thread and data I called them and dropped to 400f/525r. You can select whatever rates you want when you order. Front and rear springs are both the 2.5"/6" size, good for future mixing and matching.
Scott, is there a part # on your rear springs? I'm looking at the 2.5" diameter/6" length springs in the Eibach catalog (click on link below and drop to page 15) and they are not showing 525 in that diameter/length.

http://performance-suspension.eibach...plications.pdf
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post #27 of 175 (permalink) Old 12-13-2013, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by mazda3az View Post
Wish someone just sold a shock that came without it for our cars (like the Miata design)
Difference is that our cars have struts in the front, miatas still have shocks. A strut = shock that is an 'arm' of the suspension. Miatas are double wishbone so if you took the shock/spring out it'd still be nearly wholly attached to the car. If you took out the strut/spring combo the lower arm would allow for the knuckle to fall.

So with the GC kit does it use an off the shelf shock and come with a lower mount you thread it into?
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post #28 of 175 (permalink) Old 12-13-2013, 06:22 PM
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So with the GC kit does it use an off the shelf shock and come with a lower mount you thread it into?
Here's how it works, the upper and lower mounting points are the same as stock. You use whatever OTS strut you want to (ie Koni, Bilstein, OEM, ect) hack off the spring perch and put a threaded sleeve with a collar onto the strut body. What you have then is essentially a coil-over with adjustable pre-load making height adjustment possible.

This isn't a Mazda3 below, but you'll get the idea.


Last edited by Adam3s; 12-13-2013 at 06:27 PM.
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post #29 of 175 (permalink) Old 12-13-2013, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam3s View Post
Scott, is there a part # on your rear springs? I'm looking at the 2.5" diameter/6" length springs in the Eibach catalog (click on link below and drop to page 15) and they are not showing 525 in that diameter/length.
On the invoice it shows as......GC 150.64.92

????

Scott Meyers
2006 Mazda 3S Sport - Making it the best that it can be
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post #30 of 175 (permalink) Old 12-14-2013, 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by mazda3az View Post
On the invoice it shows as......GC 150.64.92

????
If you can, check the Eibach springs and tell me what you got there. There should be a part # on each spring that will tell us overall length, inside diameter, and also the spring rate. A 6" length spring, with a 2.5" ID, and 525 lb/in spring rate should have a part # of 0600.250.0525. However, I'm not showing it exists. I'm curious as to which springs you actually have.

Here's an example of the part # in the pic below. It tells us these springs below are 7" length, 2.5" diameter, and 450 lb/in.



Last edited by Adam3s; 12-14-2013 at 01:56 AM.
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