Street pads with a high temp tolerance should be OK for mild track work as long as you continue using relatively slippery tires. If you go to stickier tires, then any street pads start to get borderline with the small rotor size of the 2.0L 3.
A brake duct scoop on your LCA will probably help preserve whatever front pads you buy, and shouldn't take too much effort to install. Some Speed3/Focus ST guys have tried Porsche parts, surprisingly not that expensive either.
I'm not an expert on racing lines for a large track but with only 155hp my gut instinct is to go for a minimum distance exit rather than the "traditional" strategy. Start wide, throw the car into the corner but point the car immediately at the next corner to maximize the use of your meager power.
I need to go to the track at some point too, my car is built up and tuned for fast canyons but there's no opportunity on the street to really let the car loose -- like you said, it's just like a puppy and needs some obstruction-free space to have fun safely.
First off, I'd like to say that I'm sure your car would work better at BW than mine! I had fun with mine, so I can only imagine that you'd really enjoy the track as well. I was definitely wishing I had a manual!
My cars tend to be built for the canyons first. A fast canyon car will be fast on the track. A fast track car may kill you in the canyons.
As for the brakes, I think there's a common misconception that all fade is the same and that a linear processing for curing brake fade is better pads -> better fluid -> braided lines -> rotor upgrade. In fact, there are two types of brake fade: 1. pad fade and 2. fluid fade.
Pad fade is when the temperature limits of the pads are exceeded. In these situations the pedal is firm, but the car doesn't stop. A better pad would of course help in this situation, but so would a bigger rotor, at least marginally, by lowering the operating temperature of the pads. Braided lines and better fluid will not make a difference here.
Fluid fade is when the thermal limits of the braking system are exceeded. In these situations your pedal starts getting softer and softer and it takes more brake travel for the brakes to bite the same amount. Due to heat, your fluid has started to boil and bubbles are now forming in your lines. In this situation, a better brake fluid would help as would bigger rotors to reduce operating temperatures. Braided lines will not help if bubbles are forming, though they will help if the rubber lines are softening at the same time.
For fluid fade, better pads would not help. This can be surprising to a lot of people, but it's because brakes work by converting kinetic energy to heat through friction. A set amount of heat is generated for a set amount of speed scrubbed. For example, slowing down from 90 to 50 will always generate the same amount of heat. Better pads can stop you faster and they'll resist pad fade better, but they will still put in the same amount of heat into the rotor as a worse pad, provided they get you to the speed you want. Since I was experiencing fluid fade (soft brake pedal), a better brake pad is not going to cure my problem, which is that my braking system's thermal capacity is being exceeded. I need better fluid and/or a bigger rotor (for more heat capacity to lower operating temperatures).
A brake duct scoop will help my problem, absolutely. However, considering how cheap it is to upgrade to 3s brakes, I'm going down that route first to preserve the OEM-ness of my car for the time being, but scoops may be tried in the future. Interestingly, the bubbles in my brake lines were from the rear, not the front as I suspected.