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post #11 of 245 (permalink) Old 07-21-2013, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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First scca event was a success! I really enjoyed it, definitely a lot more fun with the longer and faster courses than what I've been used to. I finished 4/4 (as expected) in FSP @ 58.993 personal best, I was 2.192 seconds behind 3rd. Videos soon to follow.

Run 1 @ 60.443

Run 2 @ 59.295

Run 3 @ 59.656

Run 4 @ 58.993


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Last edited by dgross7; 06-03-2014 at 11:54 AM.
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post #12 of 245 (permalink) Old 07-21-2013, 05:46 PM
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Looked good! Made some good improvements in cutting closer to cones in your last 2 runs. Were all the runs clean?


Few things I noticed: You're milking your clutch off the line... try launching it and you'll cut at least 0.3-0.4 off your times I'd estimate. I normally launch between 2500 and 3000 rpms. You don't just dump the clutch completely(though that does work), you slip it enough to hear some tire squeal until it's all the way out. Hard to explain, but dump it too fast, you'll likely get some wheel hop. Dump it too slowly and you hear "whiirrrrrr" much like in your videos. I probably let my clutch out over the course of about 0.5 seconds.

Also maybe it's just the angle, but pull your steering wheel closer to you and/or move the seat as close to the wheel as possible. You'd be surprised at how much of a difference this makes... you feel more "connected" to the car. It's much in the same as when you're playing a racing game 15ft from the TV vs sitting 5ft from it.

I have the steering column adjusted as close to me as possible(I'd pull it even further toward me if it were possible), and move my seat about 2-3 notches further forward than normal driving. My limiting thing is my legs, I can't go further forward and be comfortable hitting the clutch. If I were road racing I'd probably only be 1-2 notches forward for more long term comfort.


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2009 Mazda 3i Touring /// Hawk HPS front pads /// Goodyear Eagle GT 205/50R17 on stock wheels /// Ghetto fabulous filled motor mount

Guinea pig for Dynotronics tuning.
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post #13 of 245 (permalink) Old 07-21-2013, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, all runs were clean. I launch soft because the start gate isn't right away. I never get the launch right at autox. I'll practice at a red light and just launch as quick as possible without tire slip but I struggle to replicate it at these events.

Thanks for the tips on steering wheel position. I'll try pulling it forward since I can't get any closer for the same reason as you.


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post #14 of 245 (permalink) Old 07-22-2013, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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One thing that just crossed my mind, in the 4th run you'll notice I missed 2nd. This happens every now and then when I try to shift too fast. While it's mostly driver error, anyone have any suggestions to lower the likelihood of error? I was thinking solid shift bushings, or something to tighten things up. But I keep thinking that it grinds because it is just being shifted too fast, rather than myself messing up the shift? If this is the case then installing a short throw shifter could possibly make it worse because I could potentially shift even faster than the transmission already doesn't like?

Just putting my thoughts to words.


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Last edited by dgross7; 07-22-2013 at 10:53 AM.
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post #15 of 245 (permalink) Old 07-22-2013, 11:46 AM
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I've experimented with launching techniques at the Pro-Solo's and noticed the best 60' times are achieved for me when I bring up the rev's to around 4,000-4,500 rpm, dump the clutch, and get a healthy amount of wheel spin. The clock says using fewer revs with little to no wheel spin = around .2 sec slower. This is on high grip concrete (Lincoln, Blytheville, Toledo). On asphalt slightly less revs may be ideal since there would be less grip more than likely. Also tires make a difference. I'm on very sticky street tires so all seasons would require a less aggressive launch for example. Basically, what I've found is the ideal amount of revs is whatever you need to spin about 1/3rd to 1/2 way through 1st gear then have it hook up completely. This keeps the revs up in the middle to upper portion of the tach and prevents bogging once the tires get fully hooked up. If you've ever seen a S2000 do a proper launch, it's sort of like that. I don't have any wheel hop issues at all in a straight line launch on good street tires (I have stock mounts too that have tons of miles on them). Only time there is a wheel hop issue is when trying to turn and accelerate too aggressively at the same time from a dead stop (Bad idea).

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post #16 of 245 (permalink) Old 07-22-2013, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgross7 View Post
One thing that just crossed my mind, in the 4th run you'll notice I missed 2nd. This happens every now and then when I try to shift too fast. While it's mostly driver error, anyone have any suggestions to lower the likelihood of error? I was thinking solid shift bushings, or something to tighten things up. But I keep thinking that it grinds because it is just being shifted too fast, rather than myself messing up the shift? If this is the case then installing a short throw shifter could possibly make it worse because I could potentially shift even faster than the transmission already doesn't like?

Just putting my thoughts to words.

Change your trans fluid right meow!

I had the same exact problem grinding into second. Changed to Redline MT90 and gave it about 1000 miles to "shear" and its a night and day difference. I have not had a problem since. You still cannot shift stupid fast, but it won't grind shifting quickly.


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post #17 of 245 (permalink) Old 07-22-2013, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Adam3s View Post
I've experimented with launching techniques at the Pro-Solo's and noticed the best 60' times are achieved for me when I bring up the rev's to around 4,000-4,500 rpm, dump the clutch, and get a healthy amount of wheel spin. The clock says using fewer revs with little to no wheel spin = around .2 sec slower. This is on high grip concrete (Lincoln, Blytheville, Toledo). On asphalt slightly less revs may be ideal since there would be less grip more than likely. Also tires make a difference. I'm on very sticky street tires so all seasons would require a less aggressive launch for example. Basically, what I've found is the ideal amount of revs is whatever you need to spin about 1/3rd to 1/2 way through 1st gear then have it hook up completely. This keeps the revs up in the middle to upper portion of the tach and prevents bogging once the tires get fully hooked up. If you've ever seen a S2000 do a proper launch, it's sort of like that. I don't have any wheel hop issues at all in a straight line launch on good street tires (I have stock mounts too that have tons of miles on them). Only time there is a wheel hop issue is when trying to turn and accelerate too aggressively at the same time from a dead stop (Bad idea).
Ah yeah I will note I am on all seasons. So higher revs probably will be needed.

But yes what Adam said... you want to spin and not bog down when you catch grip basically.


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post #18 of 245 (permalink) Old 07-22-2013, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
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Great advice I'll have to try. I'm going to another event this Sunday, not with scca, just a local autox group. I'll definitely be working on my launches.

Update: Redline fluid ordered.


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Last edited by dgross7; 07-22-2013 at 04:03 PM.
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post #19 of 245 (permalink) Old 07-23-2013, 09:33 AM
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One more quick tip. You will be much more consistent, and most likely faster, if you keep your hands glued to 3 and 9. There is very rarely any need to shuffle steer on an autocross course. If you watch your videos you will notice the wheel never gets spun past 180 degs. Happy soloing!
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post #20 of 245 (permalink) Old 08-10-2013, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by flatlander937 View Post
Change your trans fluid right meow!
Trans fluid changed to Redline full synthetic. First impressions after a quick lap around the neighborhood are good, very smooth and effortless.


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