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post #121 of 245 (permalink) Old 10-21-2014, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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Actually, intermittent is a good word to describe it. The frequency just increases with speed as if something is coming around and making the noise with each rotation.


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post #122 of 245 (permalink) Old 10-21-2014, 12:55 PM
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I see. Well I'm going to go back to my original suggestion then. Typically stuff like this is going to be a process of elimination. You could get your old rotors turned (should only cost around $20) install them and see what happens. If the problem still persists then you can eliminate the rotors as being the cause. Or you could just drive it another 500-1,000 miles with some heavy stops now and then and see if the noise goes away on it's own. My guess is you probably haven't even gotten entirely through the brake-in coating yet.

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post #123 of 245 (permalink) Old 10-21-2014, 07:52 PM
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Or use the E-brake to help expedite the process
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam3s View Post
Oh, never mind. I reread the post, and you stated it's not intermittent, the noise just increases or decreases with speed. Yeah, it's probably just that your pads aren't broken in yet. It will take a long time, especially on the back of the car.

PS - a certain car in Maryland will be getting some extra power and something else over the winter. As soon as a certain lazy texan can get to ship said items out

David Hedderick
08 Mazda 3s Sport - new STF car (sponsored by BC Racing NA and BFG)
2013 MS3
92 Miata - SSM light project
(formerly 2011 STF Mini Cooper)
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post #124 of 245 (permalink) Old 10-21-2014, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miata_racer View Post
Or use the E-brake to help expedite the process



PS - a certain car in Maryland will be getting some extra power and something else over the winter. As soon as a certain lazy texan can get to ship said items out
Not gonna lie, I've tried this lol. Maybe I'll try at 80mph on my way to work?



What car in Maryland?


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post #125 of 245 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 03:31 PM
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Actually there is a lot in common; but there is also just about everything different.
My Konis are 14mm OD as well in the threaded area, so my old plates fit just fine.

Funny enough, even the locking nut is the same pitch between the two.


'06 Whitewater Pearl build |
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post #126 of 245 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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Looks like there is less threading or is that just the picture angle and how they are resting there?

That's good to know that the tips are the same if I decide to turn to the dark side and run bilsteins.


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post #127 of 245 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 04:23 PM
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much less threading
The bilsteins are 40mm from top to perch, and threading is only 24mm of that
whereas the koni is 45mm of solid threading and only like 5mm of top but you can't use that.

Also..

I just discovered why Mack Tsang and Justin kept bending the shit out of their KMac plates.... and is the same fault issue with the Corksport plates. A problem you figured out early on.


Nobody was setting these up properly; no one was running them with upper spring perches.
Justin had some, but they're like 1" thick blocks of aluminum he grinded down with an angle grinder lol, but it's a flat plate across the top, so any angled load he was putting into the setup (camber, caster, positive and negative) was pushing this spring perch into the KMac base plate, literally pushing it upwards. Whereas on the Corksport plates, since the balljoint is up so much higher, and no spring perch at all, the spring just sits on the inside of the plate... basically bending the spring out of shape under any load what-so-ever.


So unfortunately or.. I guess on a positive but expensive note is I'm about to order some pillow nuts from Cusco along with spring perches that are curved to fit, as they seem to have the cheapest at $40 a set (as opposed to 80-200 a set)

All I really need to do now is order springs for the full car (again), and figure out what these were valved to and probably send one or other off at some point to get them valved to a heavier rate.

'06 Whitewater Pearl build |
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post #128 of 245 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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The top hats from koni are not that expensive. You should call them up, they did the 14mm boring for me free of charge too.

This is really good info though, thanks for posting this up. Not very often can we compare such similar setups side by side.


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post #129 of 245 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 04:46 PM
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Expensive but hopefully I'll keep the long enough to care.

Since AWR doesn't make these drop in systems anymore I figured I'd grab them while I can.

I might do that, unsure, I'll give them a call on Monday for the sake of comparison. Unfortunately I realized yesterday how soon my first event is this year and not looking forward to working on my car in the cold lol

On the plus side this gives me options to play with.

But now I'm the weirdo with 3 sets of suspensions, too many top hat options, and a lightweight wallet lol

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post #130 of 245 (permalink) Old 01-11-2015, 12:34 PM
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You're saying it just didn't have an upper bearing or the rubber spring seat like OEM does? Get a torrington bearing and half-ass it, or call up Fortune Auto and have them find a radial bearing to hat that works and get a rubber seat for your spring.
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