STF to FSP build Thread - Page 2 - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum
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post #11 of 837 (permalink) Old 08-22-2012, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Re: STF build Thread

On the power end of things I'm thinking an AEM CAI and vibrant header and Corksport exhaust with high flow cat.

http://www.corksport.com/aem-mazda-3...ir-intake.html

http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...Path=1021_1029

http://www.corksport.com/corksport-p...st-system.html

It looks like a stock 2.3L with manual trans makes both hp and tq in the 130-135 range so I'd like to see that get upped to around 155 whp/tq. Do you think that is a reasonable expectation with these mods?

On the suspension side of things, I'm thinking a ground control coil-over conversion kit for my Bilsteins and Corksport Camber Plates.

http://www.ground-control-store.com/...gory.php/CA=23

http://www.corksport.com/corksport-m...er-plates.html

I need to figure out what spring rate and length of springs I need.....any ideas? Stock rates are 150 front and 130 rear. I was thinking 300 # springs all the way around...but that is just a guess. Remember, I'm looking for a good balance between daily driver and race car





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post #12 of 837 (permalink) Old 08-22-2012, 08:13 PM
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Re: STF build Thread

Ground Control doesn't make anything for us. What you mean by the conversion? You need to get the housings from AWR to run the Koni 8611-RACE, they are double adjustables (get them from Jeff @ Tri-Point or Adam @ TH).

I ran without front bar, even with the LSD... so you (can't get LSD in STF) might want to consider having no front bar to eliminate the wheel spin. I had wheelspin even with the LSD on 285 R comps when I had front bar on. Also, the higher the rear springs, the better. We ran 1000lbs in the rear... good thing with the Tri-Point rear perch, we can change springs while changing the tires. And you're probably looking at 700+ lbs springs for the front without the front bar, you don't really suffer much on ride quality with that rate in the front, main thing is the rear for ride...


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post #13 of 837 (permalink) Old 08-22-2012, 08:17 PM
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Re: STF build Thread

A couple of comments.

First, I didn't see a coilover conversion set for the Mazda3 on the Ground Control site.

Second, when I was autocrossing my Mustang, I had a Steeda CAI that REQUIRED a computer tune. It would toss codes without one, I was told by many. For Mustangs,
there were many choices for computer programming. The tune was then adjusted for whatever equipment you had added. CAI's that did not require a tune essentially
were dismissed by that community as therefore not adding enough power to alter the fuel curve needs; i.e., "worthless". :shock:

I see some CAI's sold for the Mazda3 that seem to not require a tune. Hmmm.

So if you add headers and a CAI, wouldn't that seem to demand some kind of computer changes; spark, RPM, mixture?

Opinions and expertise appreciated.

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post #14 of 837 (permalink) Old 08-22-2012, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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Re: STF build Thread

Someone told me all I gotta do is call ground control and they can make me up a kit? I guess I'll call them soon and see if that is true. Tiger, I want to keep my Bilsteins and use them so no shock changes. What I mean by conversion kit is cutting off the spring perch and using an adjustable perch to adjust ride height essentially turning them into coil-overs which is what the ground kits do.

Ok, damn, that's a lot higher spring rate than I expected. Sounds like I was shooting too low. Your probably right about the front bar. It probably has to go to maximize front grip so sounds like more spring rate is necessary.


Scott, yeah I plan on getting the car dyno tuned to maximize hp gains and get it running good.
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post #15 of 837 (permalink) Old 08-22-2012, 08:38 PM
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Re: STF build Thread

You will still get gains from just the CAI/header but the tune helped a lot, my butt dyno might not be the best but the difference was great. It broadens the powerband and it helps a lot since you need to jump up and down in 2nd gear for autocross.

Hmm, I don't think GC would do that unless you pay them a good amount of money since I've tried contacting them many times to have some kits made for our cars and I got no replies... lol

The reason why such high spring rates is because of our car is quite front heavy and the tires get worked up heavily in the front. With STF, you should be able to run the car pretty low, lower CG would help this car but then you might run out of travel on your shocks...




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post #16 of 837 (permalink) Old 08-22-2012, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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Re: STF build Thread

That much spring rate in the rear vs the front plus big rear bar sounds to me like a recipe for way too much rotation? That is not the case? Remember, I'll be on street tires so the car shouldn't need as much spring rate as your car and the back end might want to come around more......just thinking aloud.
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post #17 of 837 (permalink) Old 08-22-2012, 08:54 PM
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Re: STF build Thread

We ran the same spring rates for the STX MS3. We ran more springs in STX than we did in FSP because of the tire grip. We got more rotation on the FSP car because the rears don't heat up as easily. And we were only 200-300lbs difference from the front and rear spring rate, that's not much. In FWD, loose=fast cause you'd be on the gas all the time, instead of waiting for the front to grip while understeering. Run Dunlops! They require less camber with their stiffer sidewall and more consistent overall.

Either way, you can just try it out and see how it goes... everyone's driving style is different and not everyone has the same theory for car setup!


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post #18 of 837 (permalink) Old 08-22-2012, 09:16 PM
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Re: STF build Thread

[quote author=tigermack link=topic=212184.msg4263044#msg4263044 date=1345679657]
.......... Run Dunlops! They require less camber with their stiffer sidewall and more consistent overall.

Either way, you can just try it out and see how it goes... everyone's driving style is different and not everyone has the same theory for car setup!

[/quote]
+1 on Dunlops. In HS Street Tire I first ran the 215 Star Specs, wore them out, then due to "peer pressure" went to the 225 Hankooks. On my car, with
my driving style, the Hankooks were not faster. Nada. Next set I'm going back to Dunlops, especially now that the prices are closer.

Getting your car dyno'd.....that means that those folks can then tune your computer? I thought Mazda3 computers were not easily accessed, thus the shortage
of aftermarket tuners for our cars?

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post #19 of 837 (permalink) Old 08-22-2012, 09:30 PM
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Re: STF build Thread

Yes, you need a tuner like the CP-e Standback or whatever available to you. I am not sure what Adam meant when he said put it on a dyno and getting it tuned, though.


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post #20 of 837 (permalink) Old 08-22-2012, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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Re: STF build Thread

[quote author=tigermack link=topic=212184.msg4263044#msg4263044 date=1345679657]
We ran the same spring rates for the STX MS3. We ran more springs in STX than we did in FSP because of the tire grip. We got more rotation on the FSP car because the rears don't heat up as easily. And we were only 200-300lbs difference from the front and rear spring rate, that's not much. In FWD, loose=fast cause you'd be on the gas all the time, instead of waiting for the front to grip while understeering. Run Dunlops! They require less camber with their stiffer sidewall and more consistent overall.

Either way, you can just try it out and see how it goes... everyone's driving style is different and not everyone has the same theory for car setup!

[/quote]

I don't know, I guess you're right on setup and different theories. I'd theorize running a softer spring rate with street tires would be equivalent to a harder spring rate with r-comps because the cornering forces and lateral g isn't as high. I'd theorize that a car with 500 lb springs and streets would have the same degree of roll as the same car with 700 lb springs and race tires (just as a hypothetical example). I like my car setup slightly loose as well, because slightly loose is fast, just concerned about put the car in OMG instant spin cycle mode with overly stiff setup especially since a lot of sites I drive at are definitely not glass smooth like Lincoln for example.

You guys read my mind. I just got a set of Star Specs in today. Going to run them at Nats in a couple weeks and hit a couple local events beforehand to get reacclimated.

Yup, I was talking about tuning the car on a dyno and putting a wideband O2 sensor in the exhaust....that's really the best way. I'll check out the CPE system.
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