2009 Mazda 3 2.0L 4-Speed Auto - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-16-2020, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
Bicycle Rider
 
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: San Ramon
Posts: 4
2009 Mazda 3 2.0L 4-Speed Auto

What's up Mazda Fam,
This is my first time using Mazda 3 forum but I am a member on the Corvette forum as well, I also have a 2007 C6 Z06

I have a 2009 Mazda 3 with around 155,000 miles with the automatic 4-speed transmission & the 2.0L engine.

I'm from northern Cali and live in Contra Costa county & I don't know many other people with Mazda's.

I defintely think this car is easy/ fun to drive(please correct me, if I'm wrong) and a great entry level car to go track racing after the following mods list:

I want to take this car to race-tracks so I put a Corksport Cat-Back Exhaust with High-Flow Cat and I have Typhoon K & N CAI 69-6010 cold air intake on the car. Other than that the car is stock, however I just ordered some parts.

I ordered the CorkSport Front & Rear Sway Bars & their Coilovers too. Does anybody recommend any other brands?

I have never been to the track and I want to do all my maintenance myself as I have for the last few years. I need to change all of my fluids and I was thinking about the transmission fluid to a more preformance oriented fluid to allow for quicker shifts.

I also bought a Go-Pro recently so I should have videos.

Has anybody done what I've done with their Mazda3 ??? Any tips & tricks?

I'm also lookimg for track days and need a Helmet still.

I also want drilled and slotted Rotors and was looking for any good brands since I just got new pads, but I only have a Vented rotor in the front and solid rotor in the rear. Should I use these up or get the drilled & slotted?

I have Sumitomo tires all around and will need some new rubber soon. Any recommended brands for street/track use?
I think some Rx8 wheels look nice, especially if I tinted my windows too but I think I like the sleeper look (which may go away with the coilovers).

I was debating on removing the rear seat & getting a race seat for front seat/Passenger but that may be too much.

I may be rambling but this is going to be my first track build & I am looking for any help.

Last edited by Raulito 800's; 02-16-2020 at 11:32 PM.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-16-2020, 11:50 PM
Le Mans: Prototype Class
 
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,226
Garage
Also UpGRade ALL 3 Motor Mounts!...Most likely they are bad...

Change ALL the fluids out and go Synthetic....Clean the MAF & Air Filter.

Make sure to have Good Tires & Good Brakes.

CorkSport Brands are cool but kinda Expensive....I bought a used H&R brand RSB, No need for the FSB...Maybe a Front Strutbar might help they are usually just cosmetic.

Good Luck on doing Track...Make sure to have extra $$$ for replacement parts and damages!


My 1st Mazda! - 2009 Hatchback - Golden Sand Metallic


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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-18-2020, 06:24 PM
Bicycle Rider
 
Join Date: Nov 2019
Posts: 3
First time on a track?

Get yourself familiar with the car first. This means more time at the track.

Once you get more time at track then you will know the next upgrades for your car.


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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-20-2020, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
Bicycle Rider
 
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: San Ramon
Posts: 4
Hey Bing.Fuellas,
This is my first time at the track and but I sometimes go canyon carving. I noticed this car has a lot of body roll and I want to see it lowered (Less wheel gap). I like upgrades that are more performance than visual (at this moment).

You are defintely correct in regards to familarizing myself with the car at a track before upgrading everything, I'm not sure if I want to do any other upgrades other than suspension items I have ordered, or any other upgrades as things deteriorate.

I mainly bought the suspension pieces to learn more about the installation process and then how it will affect my handling and ride. If I get good results I will probably upgrade more pieces on my other cars. I don't want to spend all my cash on labor, I'd rather buy the parts, since I have the tools.

Thanks for the reply!
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-20-2020, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
Bicycle Rider
 
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: San Ramon
Posts: 4
Hey ultimica06,

What brands are recommend for:

-Tires that look nice on the stock wheels but once lowered
-What fluids do you recommend?
-Drilled and slotted rotors & pads?
-I need new brake lines in the driver rear as I noticed some cracks
-which motor mounts do you recommend? I noticed mine has some cracks but the car feels nice.


Also, I just bought a vacuum brake bleeder and I was wondering the correct order to bleed the brakes, I might check Alldata later too, when I go to school. I know my fluid is dirty and I did something stupid this weekend.

I was changing the front and rear brake pads on the Mazda3 and I had my only other car in the garage which was being blocked by the Mazda in the driveway.

I have done the brakes before on the rear so I was attempting to do it again with Needle Nose pliers and I couldn't get in far enough to fit the new pads.

So, I put the caliper back on,WITHOUT PADS, and I moved the car onto the street and it felt horrible. I pushed the brake and the fronts worked but only after I pushed the pedal at least 50% and braking in reverse was worse. I did this as anexperiment to see what would happen and I am an idiot but I did learn something!!

Anyway I didn't drive like that for long and I got in my Corvette and drove off to Harbor Freight to buy their piston ring compression tool. This allowed me to do the brakes easily.

While doing the brakes with the newly purchase compression tool, I immediatley noticed there was brake fluid and the piston was super far out, to the point I had to use the needle nose pliers just to get the Harbor Freight enough room for all of it's pieces to fit and do their work. I cleaned the fluid up with brake cleaner & I used PurplePower Degreaser and kitty litter for the fluid on the floor of my driveway (which worked btw).



On the test drive I noticed my pedal still felt horrible and I need to push 50% to get the brakes to work which is not fun. Back to Harbor Freight I went to get the brake fluid bleeder for a 1-man job. I haven't done this yet.

I have the line wrenches and how tight should I torque the bleeder screw (banjo bolt)? And any tips for bleeding my brakes?

I may be rambling but any tips are welcome!!
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