2010 mazda break issue - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-28-2018, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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2010 mazda break issue

hi i have a 2010 mazda 3 i replaced the calibers, pads, rotors, and flex line on the rear and they still wont release any suggestions on next step to take
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-28-2018, 04:27 PM
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Make sure the parking brake cables are fully releasing the arms on the calipers.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-28-2018, 11:10 PM
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try cracking the bleed nipple and see if they release
would indicate, pedal/mastercyl/booster adjustment too tight
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-28-2018, 11:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lout View Post
try cracking the bleed nipple and see if they release
would indicate, pedal/mastercyl/booster adjustment too tight
I've been a mechanic for several years and have yet to see this happen. This isn't even adjustable on most newer cars.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-29-2018, 12:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lout View Post
try cracking the bleed nipple and see if they release
would indicate, pedal/mastercyl/booster adjustment too tight
If the parking brake is working properly then this would be the next step to determine if it is a hydraulic issue. If it does free up then something in the system is keeping the pressure on. Usually it is a failed flex hose although they are new. This vehicle has non adjustable components for the above parts according to the service manual. Still could be an issue somewhere in there due to failed/worn parts doing something to keep the pressure on although it would most likely affect all 4 wheels. If pressure releases at bleeders then reapply brakes to bind again and crack master cylinder lines and see if they free up. If so, then there is an issue in the above listed area. If not, then you could try the same thing at the ABS unit. Cracking open the lines before the flex hoses will isolate the area there to see if the flex hose is good or bad. Just thinking through the system. Kind of like working through an electrical circuit. I have seen some issues over the years that go against normal failures and the typical logical diagnostic strategy. Hopefully this isn't one of them.

If the parking brake is good and releasing pressure doesn't work then the issue is in the calipers or assembly procedure or a parts issue causing interference.

With all that said, the parking brake suggestion is where I'm leaning right now since it is both rear wheels and the front are OK. If a quick crack of the bleeders doesn't do the trick then this is where I would look. Look forward to hearing what you find.

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-29-2018, 03:53 AM
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i"ve been a mechanic for a while now too
everything is made in china now and nothing fits like it should any more
suggestion was offered as an easy, cheap, non destructive form of diagnosis
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