2009 2.5L swap - Newb Questions & Follow along - Page 3 - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum
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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-29-2020, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Davids3 View Post
Glad to hear you have it up and running. I swapped mine a few months ago. I read you didn't remove the timing cover. This made me concerned that you did not install the two diamond washers that need to be installed whenever the timing pulls is removed.
Thank you so much for the tip. I got all worried and retraced my steps against the instructions to see what I may have missed. But since I did not take the timing gears off the cams (or even need to remove the cams), I did not need to replace them. Recall that in my case the timing gears ended up being the same on my 09 2.3 and the donor 2.5L so I was fortunate to be able to skip that part of the swap! I changed the valve cover, but did not need to do anything with the timing gears/cams under the valve cover.


Thanks again for the tip to double check that.


@VWandDodge : Thanks for the second opinion on coolant. I had the same thoughts and using Ford's specs.


Been using the car for a week now for short trips. Put on just over 100 miles and no issues/no engine lights. The paint/sealants/whatever seems to have finally burned off and the weird smells seem to have finally gone.

Last edited by xtnct; 03-29-2020 at 08:00 AM.
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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-29-2020, 09:18 AM
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Got any pics of the completed swap? Did you have to adjust the fuel trim levels?

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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-29-2020, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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Got any pics of the completed swap? Did you have to adjust the fuel trim levels?

I did not do anything with fuel. Used the donor's Ford injectors and fuel rail, all else fuel related stock from my 09 Mazda. Isn't fuel controlled by the ECU so to change that you'd need an ECU flash, right?


I agree that a tune would be of great benefit for power and efficiency but not worth spending a few hundred on it in my case as it is just a daily beater. If I get no engine lights, I plan to leave it as is. In current form, the butt dyno reports that the performance is about the same as the stock engine with a little more low-mid uph on initial throttle. But once you get to 4-5K, it takes a while for the engine to rev up to redline so it feels the same as the old 2.3 (which to me makes sense given the use of the 2.3L intake manifold - since I did not increase the amount of air that can be sucked in, I'm limited to what the 2.3L used to flow. For folks using the 2.5L intakes, they should probably notice improvements across the full rpm range is my guess).



All finished, it looks like a regular stock engine.... With everything on it, you can't even tell it was painted. The only give way is the extra bolt hole for the ford's engine mount (because I did not swap the front engine cover).


Don't know what caused it, but the exhaust tone changed. The car now sounds more "manly" or "grown up" instead of sounding "cheap" or "dinky" like a toy. Like there is more deepness to it. Maybe because the engine is connected to the car now (recall I found completely severed engine mount)... I don't know but we did notice a change in exhaust tone for the better.


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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-03-2020, 10:24 AM
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Hey!

Glad you're up and running. Yours took quite a bit shorter than mine! I just got mine on the road the other day. I apologize for not responding to earlier posts, but I was running into my own issues.

How's it going so far? Everything working well?

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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-03-2020, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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All good so far - knock on wood. Not many miles due to shutdown, but starts each time, no leaks and no engine lights.


Hope you get your kinks worked out.


BTW, anyone know of resale values of converted 3's to 2.5? Higher due to newer/lower mile engine, with more power and many new parts or lower as it is no longer original and a "hack with a ford engine" compared to same year/mileage with stock 2.3L? Same or 10%, 20%, 30% higher/lower?
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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-04-2020, 10:32 AM
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All good so far - knock on wood. Not many miles due to shutdown, but starts each time, no leaks and no engine lights.


Hope you get your kinks worked out.


BTW, anyone know of resale values of converted 3's to 2.5? Higher due to newer/lower mile engine, with more power and many new parts or lower as it is no longer original and a "hack with a ford engine" compared to same year/mileage with stock 2.3L? Same or 10%, 20%, 30% higher/lower?
I shy away from vehicle where the engine was replaced only because I don't trust someone else's work. Was everything documented so I have reference material for later maintenance? Any short cuts taken? What kinds of hack-work is hidden?

I would think the resale value is lower for that very fact. Motor vehicles are depreciating assets that also incur regular expenses (gas, oil, insurance, repairs) that people never take into account, which means they're borderline money pits. The ROI for a motor vehicle is personal transportation, so just drive it and enjoy your work.

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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-04-2020, 10:45 AM
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I agree. With a swap like this, it's usually because you want to keep the car rather than sell it. Cars usually don't increase value with Frankenstein style of power trains. Only vehicles I can think of that do increase value are street/hot rods but those are usually classic/antique cars, and even that it's because it's a $7000 big CI crate motor.

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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-04-2020, 06:24 PM
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Thank you so much for the tip. I got all worried and retraced my steps against the instructions to see what I may have missed. But since I did not take the timing gears off the cams (or even need to remove the cams), I did not need to replace them. Recall that in my case the timing gears ended up being the same on my 09 2.3 and the donor 2.5L so I was fortunate to be able to skip that part of the swap! I changed the valve cover, but did not need to do anything with the timing gears/cams under the valve cover.


Thanks again for the tip to double check that.


@VWandDodge : Thanks for the second opinion on coolant. I had the same thoughts and using Ford's specs.


Been using the car for a week now for short trips. Put on just over 100 miles and no issues/no engine lights. The paint/sealants/whatever seems to have finally burned off and the weird smells seem to have finally gone.
I was referring to the two diamond washers associated with the crankshaft sprocket and oil pump sprocket. If you removed the crankshaft bolt, you are supposed to replace those. The timing on these engines is held only by friction pressure from the crankshaft bolt. Those diamond washers are added to augment the friction and avoid slippage. They are not considered to be reusable.

DE
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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-04-2020, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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I was referring to the two diamond washers associated with the crankshaft sprocket and oil pump sprocket. If you removed the crankshaft bolt, you are supposed to replace those. The timing on these engines is held only by friction pressure from the crankshaft bolt. Those diamond washers are added to augment the friction and avoid slippage. They are not considered to be reusable.

Hmmm... First thank you again for making sure I did not mess up but I'm still having trouble following.



I double checked in the factory manual on crank pulley installation (page 01-10A-19) and diagram (page 01-10A-13) and see no reference to any sort of washers on the crankshaft bolt (I did buy a new crank pulley bolt).



Regarding the install of the crankshaft sprocket (page 01-10A-9) the manual does state to install a new washer - but like I stated, I did not mess with the camshaft or the intake or exhaust sprockets (driven by a chain). I did not need to touch anything there as the sprocket was identical between the donor and my original engine so did not need to undo or move anything over in that area except the valve cover.



Regarding the oil pump sprocket (page 01-11A-9), the manual does not mention or show any washers. Regardless, I did not need to take off the front engine cover so I did not touch any items under that cover either (where the oil pump and sprocket resides driven by a another chain).
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