2009 2.5L swap - Newb Questions & Follow along - Page 2 - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-07-2020, 11:22 AM
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Glad everything is going pretty well, and glad that this seems like a little easier swap.

I'm sure you'll be fine with the wiring connectors. Most are different size/shape, and located so that you can figure it out relatively well. Also, you seemed to take quite a bit of pictures, so that'll hopefully help ya out (I didn't).

I opted out of using the adapter plate mostly for the reason you stated above and price. I didn't want to spend the approx $100 (I think) for something I knew I could make work by shifting it and using RTV to seal it. So far so good.

Unfortunate the tool you bought didn't work. Mine worked just fine. Curious.

I haven't flashed the ECU yet, and I haven't taken mine on the road yet. It is still sitting on stands. I plan on upgrading the suspension since it's halfway take apart anyway. So I can't say much after you swap it in. But please feel free to ask anything else.

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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-09-2020, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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My adapter plate was $35, so not significant. How did you move the dowels? That seems like a big and difficult job and don't see how you'd do that.... maybe push out the metal bushing in the intake manifold, make the hole bigger, reposition the bushing and fill in the empty space with JB weld?



I was planning on using stock tuning, but if the car runs well and a tune is cheap enough, I may consider it. I would not dyno tune mine, but go for a mail reflash if available. I'm running a K&N cone filter instead of all the air box boxes.... Got any links/info on the flashes?
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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-09-2020, 08:42 PM
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I believe there were ideas of mail-in company's in that thread I posted that you said you were using. The reason why a flash is recommended (not exactly necessary) is that the fuel ration has parameters. The 2.5 just right on the edge of those parameters. For the most part, it will run fine. I've heard of some people experiencing issues every once in awhile until re-flashed.

Yes, I removed the locating dowels then just used the larger holes to shift it. I think I might have had to enlarge them to get it seal correctly. I didn't use the dowels anymore and didn't fill in the extra space. Just made sure I had it tighten down and RTV.

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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-14-2020, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you - I thought that there may have been another thread with more specifics on the ECU tuning options for the swaps...I guess not.

I just updated my original thread with this weeks updates....engine is finally back in, now connect everything back up. But I'm stuck!

Turns out the VVT on the 2012 has a different connector, not just that it points the other way. Wanted to swap out the VVT, but that won't work as they are totally different. I do not have a connector off the donor motor wiring harness to splice like other posts suggest.

Searched the internet for a while and I found just one blog that listed a potential part number:
https://walter-motorsports.com/techn...-25l-swap-info (Motocraft WPT1251)
But from the picture of this plug on amazon, I'm not that convinced. CAN ANYONE CONFIRM?

UPDATE. Searched Rockauto and for my donor motor (2012) they VVT and connector look like the one from my Mazda: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=2413&jsn=2413

So I searched the next year (2013) and the connector come us as WPT1251 (matching the blog post): https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...03981&jsn=2616 I guess I'll but this one and see if it works.


Not sure why the VVT on my donor is different.... late model year change?

Also, can't find any detail on splicing, there are 2 wires, does it matter which one goes where on the wiring harness? Would not want to wire it backwards like an electric motor that spins backwards instead of forwards. CAN ANYONE CONFIRM WHICH PIN GOES TO WHICH COLOR WIRE ON HARNESS?


Mazda's VVT on right in the picture.


The plug on wiring harness:

The plug on the Ford's VVT:

Last edited by xtnct; 03-15-2020 at 08:46 AM.
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-15-2020, 11:56 AM
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There are several swap threads on this forum. Did you review any of them? About a year or two ago, one member made an outstanding cross-reference list of which year & parts combos work best. Again, it's here (somewhere) and it may be a great guide for you.

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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-21-2020, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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So I bought a (Motocraft WPT1251) connector and it appeared to be correct one. I spliced into the existing harness. Since no one was able to help me with the connections, I oriented the old connector and new one the same way and made sure the wire went to the same pin. I guess it seemed to have worked.


I did once over and spotted a few connected that were not all the way in and a few hoses who's clamps were not on. This was due to me trying figure out where things go and did not connect fully in case I needed to re-route things (especially around the wires/hoses that tuck into the radiator support). So do a final check! Filled coolant reservoir with water as I want do a flush (since old engine used green coolant and donor engine had orange coolant).

I then checked the clutch, and if was very soft and would not come up. I guess all the moving around created air in the system and I had to bleed that.

I cranked the car over a few times with coil packs disconnected and after it started up the first time. No smoke, no drips, no engine lights. I had some smoke coming from the exhaust manifold. Thought it was a leak but I had no smoke from the tail pipe. After about 10 mins it moved to front of engine. I think it is just the engine paint or anti-seize on the bolts getting burned off a bit... I ran it for a while to make sure fan kicked in, no issues.

Drained the water, put in the G05 (donor engine spec coolant), put the bumper, lights and hood back. Went for a short ride and all seemed to be good. Time will tell. Maybe it had a little more grunt mid-range, top end seems about the same.

Last edited by xtnct; 03-22-2020 at 03:48 PM.
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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-21-2020, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VWandDodge View Post
There are several swap threads on this forum. Did you review any of them?
Thanks. Yes I have read many forums and YouTube videos (and I have posted the links to all the resources I used in my posts). If I am asking questions in my thread, it is either because it was not covered in other threads or my case is different. Also, many threads assume mechanics or people with more knowledge than I and some things are common knowledge to them but not me as I lack the experience. This is my first engine removal, clutch change project ever.



I would have not even attempted this project if it was not for the great folks that shared their knowledge and experiences before me. So KUDOS to all of you that came before me and I hope my thread helps build up the knowledge sharing library for others.
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Last edited by xtnct; 03-21-2020 at 09:29 PM.
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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-22-2020, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
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Been searching the internet for over an hour and can't find the answer... what antifreeze (coolant) to run.


Original 09 2.3L uses the green Dexcool FL-22 rated stuff. The Ford Escape 2.5L uses G05 orange stuff.



I am thinking of using what the donor engine wants - any thoughts?
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-28-2020, 10:39 AM
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Glad to hear you have it up and running. I swapped mine a few months ago. I read you didn't remove the timing cover. This made me concerned that you did not install the two diamond washers that need to be installed whenever the timing pulls is removed. Without these there is increased risk of your timing slipping and valves hitting pistons. The 2.3 didn't have them but the 2.5 did. You can replace one of them when swapping just the pull, but the other one is not accessible without removing the timing cover.

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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-28-2020, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtnct View Post
Been searching the internet for over an hour and can't find the answer... what antifreeze (coolant) to run.


Original 09 2.3L uses the green Dexcool FL-22 rated stuff. The Ford Escape 2.5L uses G05 orange stuff.



I am thinking of using what the donor engine wants - any thoughts?
I recommend using what the donor's engine used. The coolant application is for the engine and not the vehile.

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