177,000 on my 2008 S GT Hatchback. CV boot torn. Thoughts? - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
Moped Rider
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 15
177,000 on my 2008 S GT Hatchback. CV boot torn. Thoughts?

I need some opinions, as I'm having trouble making a decision..
I have a 2008 Mazda 3 S GT Hatchback, Manual.
Recently while doing some maintenance I noticed the Drivers side CV axle boot is torn and is now slinging grease..
I've done almost all of my own work, including replacing almost all the rear suspension and the struts up front..
I just replaced the FL22 coolant and main upper/lower hoses the other day..
The itself is in pretty decent shape for 11 years old and this mileage..
No engine issues, original clutch.

Problem is, I don't mind doing brakes, tranny fluid, basic maintenance..but I'm getting real tired of doing suspension work.. It sucks.. It's rusty, I waste a day, or weekend cause nothing ever goes right.

Dealership want's about $400 to replace the whole Driver side CV axle, (OEM axle @ about $280).. Labor is only $120.
Is this worth it?
Sure I could buy a $50 axle off Rockauto and give it to them to install, but it won't be under warranty if something goes wrong, plus I hear more bad things about aftermarket axles than good..
Mechanic says the Mazdas just don't like other axles..

I'm considering cutting my losses and trading it in.. before I lose my clutch or wheel bearings,etc etc,... she's an old girl.
What do you guys think?
How much life could really be left...
latham83 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 02:35 PM
Super Moderator
 
shipo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Southern New Hampshire
Posts: 1,203
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by latham83 View Post
I need some opinions, as I'm having trouble making a decision..
I have a 2008 Mazda 3 S GT Hatchback, Manual.
Recently while doing some maintenance I noticed the Drivers side CV axle boot is torn and is now slinging grease..
I've done almost all of my own work, including replacing almost all the rear suspension and the struts up front..
I just replaced the FL22 coolant and main upper/lower hoses the other day..
The itself is in pretty decent shape for 11 years old and this mileage..
No engine issues, original clutch.

Problem is, I don't mind doing brakes, tranny fluid, basic maintenance..but I'm getting real tired of doing suspension work.. It sucks.. It's rusty, I waste a day, or weekend cause nothing ever goes right.

Dealership want's about $400 to replace the whole Driver side CV axle, (OEM axle @ about $280).. Labor is only $120.
Is this worth it?
Sure I could buy a $50 axle off Rockauto and give it to them to install, but it won't be under warranty if something goes wrong, plus I hear more bad things about aftermarket axles than good..
Mechanic says the Mazdas just don't like other axles..

I'm considering cutting my losses and trading it in.. before I lose my clutch or wheel bearings,etc etc,... she's an old girl.
What do you guys think?
How much life could really be left...
Think about it this way, for the cost of one car payment you can put new axles in your car.

Were I in your shoes, I'd go to a good indy shop and have them do it; they'll be more expensive than if you do it yourself, but most likely a heck of a lot cheaper than the dealership.

2006 Acura TL 6-Speed Manual
2016 Mazda3 s GT 5-Door 6-Speed Manual
shipo is offline  
post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 06:53 PM
Moped Rider
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 44
2006 Mazda3 auto here
FWIW, I broke an axle doing a strut job (popped it out of the inner socket and broke it trying to put it back). I went ahead and replaced both sides with Autozone Duralast Golds since they have a lifetime warranty on parts. They rent the axle socket set, axle puller, and 200lb torque wrench for the job so if it breaks all you have to get is a couple hours of weekend free time and a new axle nut.

Have not noticed any issues yet, but this was about 5k miles ago (not much use, I know)
Birchtree is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 10:17 PM
Moped Rider
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: MD
Posts: 15
I always lean towards keeping the car if it's regular wear items like suspension, CV boots, etc. You know the service history, and fixing stuff like that a time or two a year is a lot cheaper than a new car payment, or even a used car that you don't know the service history on, especially if you're doing the work yourself. Once most of those repairs are done, you shouldn't have to worry about it again for a long time. As you get to know a car, you get better and faster at working on it too. Engine and transmission problems are usually the big ones when it's time to throw in the towel in my opinion, unless you're a true enthusiast for the car...

The Mazda axles seem to be pretty robust - why not just replace the torn boot? I know mechanics don't like doing this, mainly because the time involved makes the final cost to the customer the same, but I think for a DIYer it makes a lot of sense. Is it the inner or outer that's torn?

I've done the repair twice on my driver's side axle. First time, a little after 100k miles the outer boot tore and I put on Empi brand boots on both the outer and inner. They fit fine, but the rubber will break down a lot faster on them than the OEM boots. About 40k miles and 3 years later I noticed they were starting to get pretty big cracks so I decided to replace them with OEM boots before they failed. The OEM boots were heavily discounted on Amazon at the time and only about $20/piece. Not sure if you'd be able to find them that cheap now. It's a messy job, but not too bad.

I did it by removing the tie rod end and lower ball joint (the worst part of the job in my opinion - use Kroil oil to help loosen it), and removing the axle nut. With all that off, you can then remove the clamps on the inner joint and take the axle out without removing the part that goes into the transmission, so no need to drain the transmission fluid. To finish the job, you'll need snap ring pliers, CV boot pliers for aftermarket boots, or for the OEM Mazda boot which use a different kind of clamp on the inner boot, I found a set of really long 11 inch 90 degree needle nose pliers were needed to snap the clamp in. If you look at the clamp, you'll see Mazda didn't use a standard CV boot clamp on the inner boot for some reason, but on the outer boot, did use the regular CV boot clamps.
gknorr is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum > Technical / Model / Performance > Powertrain 2004-2009 Mazda3

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
8