Replaced my starter slow crank/no start and no crank no start. - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum
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post #1 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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Replaced my starter slow crank/no start and no crank no start.

2006 Mazda 3 2.0L
*top bolt wasn’t stripped, they were just dumb and couldn’t get it to screw in*
Anyway, replaced my starter, my battery was dead so after an hour of it hooked up to jumper cables, it started. Told my buddies to drive it for a bit to charge up the battery, they didn’t. I get home from work and excited to drive my car finally, and it gave me a no crank no start.
Took my battery to AZ and they charged it up and it tested as a good battery.
Go home, put it in, car slowly cranks, but will not start.
I tried to start it a few more times, then it gave me a no crank no start, as if the battery is dead.
The starter I put in it is from an 08 m3 with the 2.0L.
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post #2 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-05-2019, 07:24 AM
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You have a parasitic draw somewhere.
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post #3 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-05-2019, 11:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kreimo16 View Post
2006 Mazda 3 2.0L
*top bolt wasnít stripped, they were just dumb and couldnít get it to screw in*
Anyway, replaced my starter, my battery was dead so after an hour of it hooked up to jumper cables, it started. Told my buddies to drive it for a bit to charge up the battery, they didnít. I get home from work and excited to drive my car finally, and it gave me a no crank no start.
Took my battery to AZ and they charged it up and it tested as a good battery.
Go home, put it in, car slowly cranks, but will not start.
I tried to start it a few more times, then it gave me a no crank no start, as if the battery is dead.
The starter I put in it is from an 08 m3 with the 2.0L.
If, and I mean if, the battery was indeed charged and OK, then it should have started again like it did when the jumper cables were on it and it was charged for an hour. Sounds like the battery isn't good. Did you try doing the jumper cable thing again? Plus, are the power and ground connections good to the engine and starter from the battery? If they are not, you could have a voltage drop issue that is only overcome by the battery aided jump start giving the extra boost over the stand alone battery. In addition, it is possible that the used starter could be bad causing the same issue and jump start only starting. But the fact that it goes dead after slowly cranking a few times sounds like a bad battery. As far as a parasitic draw causing this, you would know it because you would get a serious arch when you connect the cables. It would be a large parasitic draw to be killing the battery that fast. I seen it once on a 1998 Camry. Ended up being the starter shorted internally. In that case, the starter didn't work but went up in smoke. Clearly not your issue.

Try jump starting again. If it starts, then I would suspect a bad battery. AZ and other parts store testers aren't always accurate. Even the one we have at work can err on the side of pass on a bad battery sometimes, not often, but sometimes.

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post #4 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by rickkari View Post
...
Try jump starting again. If it starts, then I would suspect a bad battery. AZ and other parts store testers aren't always accurate. Even the one we have at work can err on the side of pass on a bad battery sometimes, not often, but sometimes.
^^ Although it's never happened to me, I've seen this same thing reported a number of times on various auto forums.

And just an aside that I can never understand why so many people just hang on parts instead of trying to do a bit of research and diagnose problems. I guess maybe it seems like the easiest thing to do, but so often it works out just the opposite.

2011 3i 2.0 A/T 145K miles
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post #5 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
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I’ve found a snapped wire.

And this black connector that seems like it should have a wire, (reference the bold you see is my lower starter bolt)
I’ve taken a screenshot from a different video and it seems like I need that wire to go into said connector.

Is this the oil pressure sensor?
Anyone know exactly what the black and green connector is?
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post #6 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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A little back story.
When I bought the car last April, it had an intermediate starting issue to begin with, over nights it would take a few try’s to get her going, but if I drove to the store, was in there for about 10 minutes I’d come back out and it’d fire right up. A few times of a no crank no start I tapped my starter and she started. One morning about 2 months ago she gave me nothing, even with tapping the starter so I figured it finally went out.
When I was replacing it I noticed whoever did it before me never put the top bolt back in, maybe because it was a pain to get to.
I’m thinking one of the people I’ve had help me with this starter accidentally snapped the wire.
I still find it weird it turned on with the cables, and ran not hooked up to them, but now acts crazy.
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post #7 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 02:36 PM
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That black and green one sure looks like the oil pressure sender, if it's screwed into the housing that the oil filter attaches to then it definitely is.



What rickkari said about battery testers is correct. We have two testers at work, one is a load tester and the other is a small Midtronics tester that tests the battery in a way that doesn't use load. I've had batteries pass on the Midtronics tester but fail on the load tester and vise versa. Also, using a manual load tester and not applying the load for long enough can also give a false "good" test on a battery. Either of these could cause the the parts store to give an incorrect report on battery health.
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post #8 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 07:22 AM Thread Starter
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I’ve ordered a new clip from Parks Geek. Should arrive today. I’ll let y’all know if this solves my issue
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post #9 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 11:08 AM
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I lived in Alaska for over 30 years, where a bad battery can mean the difference between life and death. Now I live in Florida, where the summer heat is just as bad for batteries, and while it may not be life and death here, it can be a major annoyance. If I am in doubt about a battery, I just replace it with the best battery I can find. If I still have a problem, I will attempt to troubleshoot it, and if that is beyond my ability, I will have a professional do it.

Bad batteries can cause a whole array of electrical parts to fail, particularly when the vehicle is being started. Much like bad tires, if you have a bad battery, your car is an unreliable hunk of junk until you replace the battery. Just my opinion, mind you, but it is one based on experience. You REALLY need to rule out the battery.
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post #10 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by kreimo16 View Post
Iíve ordered a new clip from Parks Geek. Should arrive today. Iíll let yíall know if this solves my issue
It won't. While the oil pressure switch wiring should be fixed it isn't the source of your problem. The issue is most likely one of four things: A bad starter, a bad battery, a bad connection at or between the starter and battery, or a bad engine ground. As theblooms said, a parasitic draw could also be part of the problem but it wouldn't be bad enough that your freshly charged battery wouldn't be able to start the car after just putting it in. If it was then you would have a huge spark when hooking it up and the wire sheathing on the battery cables would start to melt. Barrow a known good battery from another car or buy a new one from a place that will allow you to return it if it isn't the problem (Walmart) and see if it starts.
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