P0778 code - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-12-2018, 08:06 AM Thread Starter
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P0778 code

Symptoms:

Car runs and shifts OK. AT light and Check Engine light are on. When I shut the car off, the AT light goes away upon restarting, but Check Engine stays on. Drive down the road until 5th gear, all is well. When it goes to downshift, there is a small jerk, and AT light comes back. Car still operates in all five gears. If I erase the code it comes back with P0778 Pressure Control Solenoid B Electrical. This looks like a very labor intensive project.

This is a 2008 Mazda 3 2.3 Liter with almost 190K miles on it. TCM and a couple things replaced in there a year ago. I am just wondering if I should spend 600 bucks in a car that I have already spent too much on. I am retired and on a fixed income.

So the main question comes down to: Is it safe to drive the car like this?
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-12-2018, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Tekboy View Post
... So the main question comes down to: Is it safe to drive the car like this?
My main question would be the maintenance history of the A/T fluid and current level and quality of the fluid. Yes, this is an electrical code, however a fluid issue can cause all kinds of different issues. So let's get that one answered, before talking about hanging on any parts.
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2011 3i 2.0 A/T 145K miles
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-12-2018, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by m3iguy View Post
My main question would be the maintenance history of the A/T fluid and current level and quality of the fluid. Yes, this is an electrical code, however a fluid issue can cause all kinds of different issues. So let's get that one answered, before talking about hanging on any parts.
Thanks for your response. Fluid level is good, and the fluid was changed along with a output speed sensor and pan replacement in February. Car is not "limping", though I certainly chose to drive it home less aggressively than usual.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-12-2018, 12:21 PM
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Ok, then with the fluid being good it's time to move on to the code. You mentioned a $600 cost for repair - is that an actual estimate from a shop, or just someone's ballpark guess? In any case, I'd want to at least know that a resistance test has been done on the solenoids, prior to getting into any actual repair. If that test has not been done yet, it's not a very difficult thing to DIY, if you're into that. If not, it shouldn't cost over $50 or so for a shop to do that one.

2011 3i 2.0 A/T 145K miles
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-12-2018, 12:51 PM
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What most service shop rates are and charges for services is always inaccurately posted. Most shop have an hourly rate and the US nation wide average is 95 per hour. For a service procedure most will use a labor guide but still have a one hour minimum.
Many service shops may give a prorate or adjustment from that first hour or diagnostic work if you continue to have the actual service and repair done.
If anyone goes to a service shop you need to read clearly what you will be getting and if you are not sure ASK the service writer.
The fluid change as described may have only been a pan and filter only and not a complete flush. There is NO WAY to determine the true state of transmission fluid or for that matter any fluid without a sample analysis.
For any transmission service issue that inexperienced individuals are getting regarding and especially with a computer control automatic transmission should be taken to a shop that primarily specializes in transmission or to the Dealer.


Here is at least one member besides myself that believes in having the*oil or fluids(*motor oil) checked out by way of analysis.

*
https://www.mazda3forums.com/667-pow...s-11k-oci.html

Last edited by M3RacerX; 12-12-2018 at 12:58 PM.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-12-2018, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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The work on the transmission in February was done by someone who ONLY does automatic transmissions. When I looked it up on the net to get an idea what all was involved in a diagnosis, it required a great deal (with my limited skill set) of disassembly just to get to the point where you are able to get readings. My question remains: Is it safe to drive the car?
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-12-2018, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tekboy View Post
The work on the transmission in February was done by someone who ONLY does automatic transmissions. When I looked it up on the net to get an idea what all was involved in a diagnosis, it required a great deal (with my limited skill set) of disassembly just to get to the point where you are able to get readings. My question remains: Is it safe to drive the car?
I am very glad that you spent the time to learn a little off the forum with your problem.

As for the question about "safe" to drive.... I often get asked this from customers that call and I will tell you the same thing. There is a problem that needs to be resolved before the the warning letting you know something is wrong turns to calling AAA to get towed to a shop!

I am wondering why to do not contact the transmission shop you have already done business with?
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-12-2018, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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I am very glad that you spent the time to learn a little off the forum with your problem.



?
Deep runs the sarcasm in this one. <Best Yoda impression>
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-13-2018, 12:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tekboy View Post
Deep runs the sarcasm in this one. <Best Yoda impression>
This was NOT meant to be sarcastic. The thing is many join forums thinking that there is an answer and that all knowing members (sarcastic) will have the answers. But the reality is it becomes a guessing game that many members compete to guess the solution and become the FORUM GURU for all! In the real world which some of us actually do Diagnostic and Auto Technical servicing it is much different. So when I saw you found some "GOOD" information off the forum I paid you a compliment! Sir!

20181212_211755_resize.jpg

20181212_211810_resize.jpg
"nothing to be learned here....move along!"


Last edited by M3RacerX; 12-13-2018 at 12:23 AM.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-20-2018, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tekboy View Post
The work on the transmission in February was done by someone who ONLY does automatic transmissions. When I looked it up on the net to get an idea what all was involved in a diagnosis, it required a great deal (with my limited skill set) of disassembly just to get to the point where you are able to get readings. My question remains: Is it safe to drive the car?
I tired to upload the pages from the service manual for a 2007 Mazda 3, but apparently my limit is 20KB - WTF?. I'm pretty sure you have this same transmission. PM me and I'll email it to you. The code is for a part that is in the secondary valve body. That is not accessed by the transmission oil pan under the car. There is a second cover on the transmission that is accessed from under the battery box and it is near the firewall. The procedure has some debugging steps you can do with just an ohm meter. If you are real lucky, it may just be a connector that isn't fully seated. It could be a damaged pin inside the connector on the connector side or the transmission side. It could be a bad solenoid. I haven't been in the secondary valve body myself, but I've done a repair in the main valve body. I don't think it is that big of a deal to take off the cover and change a solenoid.
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