Need help with code P0455 - Page 3 - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum
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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-06-2018, 09:52 PM
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From what I read the proper way to determine what caused the DTC is and has not been done? If a part changed corrected the problem causing the DTC it would self clear on its own in a couple of days of normal driving or between 1-5 complete ECU start up run cycles.

Hopefully the clearing is done using a Diagnostic tool. And if the Diagnostic tool has the capabilities to view the monitors that can tell you a little more what is going on. The monitors from about 2000 and newer cars will hold fault information until they are corrected.
I have not yet seen any large production vehicle that will permanently store any and all DTC's that are generated in the ECU service life?

Guessing and changing parts seldom correct problem and many times creates new ones.

There is NOTHING in this thread that at this point would indicate through following a better and more correct diagnosis procedure the need for a smoke leak test yet!
What is the proper way to determine the cause of the DTC? My reason for posting in this thread is exactly for this type of information, so any help would be great!

I am using a bluetooth OBD dongle to access the ECU and the Torque app to pull and clear the codes. But within the app it does not really give me much insight into what the codes themselves mean, though, other than leading to a generic web lookup.

I know changing the gas cap and PSV were just throwing darts but on a 12 year old car with 185k miles those both seemed like cheap replacements that both could lead to these codes and less to worry about in the long run.

So at this point, other than going to a shop what could I DIY in my driveway?

Thanks!

2006 Mazda3 2.3 Hatchback mostly stock
2008 Mazda Miata with coilovers, ECU tune, full exhaust
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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-06-2018, 11:51 PM
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I did not think that response was posting. The site kept closing and refreshing on me as usual when I am at the machine shop and all metal building around. I finally gave up and logged off without posting it. To bad because that was NOT the draft I wanted to post but its there now.



I do not recomend the use of those types of Diagnostic tools. I do recomend any Diagnostic device that connect via a cable directly to the Diagnostic Connector.

What I do.... I first use a proper Diagnostic tool and access the Diagnostic connector and see the current DTC's. Note them and then clear only them. I then will restart and do a short drive or depending on the DTCs let the engine idle to see if the the engine caution light reappears. At that time I will will go back and access the ECU at the diagnostic connect and see what the DTC's are and compare to the original. Then looking what each one is and seeing what the proper diagnostic solving information is for each DTC. Very few DTC ar as simple as what is found on the internet. You need to use a Factory Service Guide and find the procedure for e the problem solving. We call this a problem solving tree. I am sure you are familiar with that term?



Anything less and you will be spending lots of time on a thread on a forum with many giving the guessing games of how they solved there problem which they are sure is the same as yours and have you changing parts and in the ends someone always wins the game and solves the OP's problem.

Since 1995 vehicles are no longer as easy to diagnosis for DIY as previous years. I am not sure even the days of distributors and carburetors DIY fared any better.

The first thing you need in your garage tool box is a Diagnostic Tool that can read at least engine codes from the PCM/ECU or what ever you want to call the Engine computer control unit! ABS and TCM are not really necessary and probably because problems in those area's your need to have training or some experience to solve anyway.
The next and maybe the first is a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL hopefully one that has ALL the updates . Repair manuals like HAYNES and Chilton are not as good as they use to be. That may be an opinion of mine, however I owns about 90 of them and from 2000 and newer I simply stopped getting them. I now rely mostly on AllDATA. But that requires a service charge/contract to use them.

That said I read what you have done and you simply missed the target with the part changing guesses. Sure you can always say the miles and why not change them but really you don't do this until the problems are solved first. Then ya... go ahead and change a few parts as an act of preventive maintenance.
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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-07-2018, 11:13 AM
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Thanks for the reply. I downloaded a copy of the service manual and checked out the diagnostic steps for p0442 and p0455. I usually alternate between those two (small EVAP leak and gross EVAP leak).

It looks like I have already performed steps 1-4 for the p0442 diagnosis on my own, and am up to step 5 where it says to use an Evaporative Emissions Tester. If it is a dry weekend I can probably make something in the garage that will suffice.
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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-08-2018, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by maurtis View Post
What is the proper way to determine the cause of the DTC? My reason for posting in this thread is exactly for this type of information, so any help would be great!

I am using a bluetooth OBD dongle to access the ECU and the Torque app to pull and clear the codes. But within the app it does not really give me much insight into what the codes themselves mean, though, other than leading to a generic web lookup.

I know changing the gas cap and PSV were just throwing darts but on a 12 year old car with 185k miles those both seemed like cheap replacements that both could lead to these codes and less to worry about in the long run.

So at this point, other than going to a shop what could I DIY in my driveway?

Thanks!
I had the same problem with a 2.0 2006 Mazda 3. Did the whole workover including smoking evap and manually checking fuel lines. Turned out to be the screw that holds the fuel pump into the tank had split around the circumference of it. TThe are like mason jar lids and the outer screw portion had split to have a top and bottom half. It was really hard to spot through the inspection port under the seat but if you get in there with a flashlight and a mirror you can check it in detail. I did not use a mirror - and so removed the tank to check - which was a b!tch and involved draining the tank as the genius' at Mazda made the inspection port too small to pull the pump through.

When I got the part from the dealer he said they replace them all the time and it's a common issue.

This step of checking the fuel pump seal was much easier than smoking the lines - I actually smoked the tank and got the slightest amount of smoke one time from near the pump but couldn't recreate the problem. Save yourself some time and take a look there first. Good luck!
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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-08-2018, 10:26 PM
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Thanks for the tip! Easy enough to check, I had the rear seat cushion off last weekend to run some wires to the back. I will take a look.

2006 Mazda3 2.3 Hatchback mostly stock
2008 Mazda Miata with coilovers, ECU tune, full exhaust
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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 02:57 PM
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Update to this thread, I ended up taking the car to my local shop and it was a cracked leak detection pump. Looking forward to CEL free driving.
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2006 Mazda3 2.3 Hatchback mostly stock
2008 Mazda Miata with coilovers, ECU tune, full exhaust
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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 08:43 PM
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Update to this thread, I ended up taking the car to my local shop and it was a cracked leak detection pump. Looking forward to CEL free driving.
Cracks in hard plastic or cases are typically difficult to detect. I've known people who've been on the verge of pulling out their hair trying to track a problem like this and discover a plastic pipe that's cracked in an inconspicuous area.

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