I did not think that response was posting. The site kept closing and refreshing on me as usual when I am at the machine shop and all metal building around. I finally gave up and logged off without posting it. To bad because that was NOT the draft I wanted to post but its there now.
I do not recomend the use of those types of Diagnostic tools. I do recomend any Diagnostic device that connect via a cable directly to the Diagnostic Connector.
What I do.... I first use a proper Diagnostic tool and access the Diagnostic connector and see the current DTC's. Note them and then clear only them. I then will restart and do a short drive or depending on the DTCs let the engine idle to see if the the engine caution light reappears. At that time I will will go back and access the ECU at the diagnostic connect and see what the DTC's are and compare to the original. Then looking what each one is and seeing what the proper diagnostic solving information is for each DTC. Very few DTC ar as simple as what is found on the internet. You need to use a Factory Service Guide and find the procedure for e the problem solving. We call this a problem solving tree. I am sure you are familiar with that term?
Anything less and you will be spending lots of time on a thread on a forum with many giving the guessing games of how they solved there problem which they are sure is the same as yours and have you changing parts and in the ends someone always wins the game and solves the OP's problem.
Since 1995 vehicles are no longer as easy to diagnosis for DIY as previous years. I am not sure even the days of distributors and carburetors DIY fared any better.
The first thing you need in your garage tool box is a Diagnostic Tool that can read at least engine codes from the PCM/ECU or what ever you want to call the Engine computer control unit! ABS and TCM are not really necessary and probably because problems in those area's your need to have training or some experience to solve anyway.
The next and maybe the first is a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL hopefully one that has ALL the updates . Repair manuals like HAYNES and Chilton are not as good as they use to be. That may be an opinion of mine, however I owns about 90 of them and from 2000 and newer I simply stopped getting them. I now rely mostly on AllDATA. But that requires a service charge/contract to use them.
That said I read what you have done and you simply missed the target with the part changing guesses. Sure you can always say the miles and why not change them but really you don't do this until the problems are solved first. Then ya... go ahead and change a few parts as an act of preventive maintenance.