Need help with code P0455 - Page 2 - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Datsun1600 View Post
Some DTCs don't activate with one engine cycle. The IMRC DTCs take 4 to 6 engine cycles to fully activate. BUT, a good scanner will show you that there are pending codes for those faults before the check engine light comes on.
^^^
Yes and that is in a round -about way what I said... "quality scanner"! There is also something else I mentioned in that response as well having to do with DTC.
I do try my best to explain things on a forum but seldom need to go into exacting procedure details when it comes to most responses to DIY.

We use a few different ones at the shop depending on the need. The flat rate charge of one hour encludes all dignostic and determination of exactly what the issue is. We dod not go over an hour for any dignostic work to find a problem. The exception is if a sensor need to be checked and it is buried in an area that takes labor time simply to get to it like 1 hour or more R&R.
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 01:00 PM
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Just a helpful hint about DTC, when you disconnect the battery you only remove the light indicating a code on the dash it does not re-set the DTC itself. The ECU will hold it in memory until the issue is resolved. You can also see this in the monitors.
That really depends on the car, typically only really new ones that have the ability to store permanent DTCs do that.
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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 02:22 PM
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That really depends on the car, typically only really new ones that have the ability to store permanent DTCs do that.
Ok sure but...IMHO we are cutting fine lines with regards to information
I did not think I needed to give all the years and models that do considering this forum and the thread it was asked.

In general as I said disconnecting the battery to solve an ECU problem is a bad idea and as far as I know never a procedure in any Factory Service Manual,TSB,aftermarket repair manuals or even ASE Training that I am aware of.

I do notice that your are a "mechanic".
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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-03-2018, 12:19 AM
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Ok sure but...IMHO we are cutting fine lines with regards to information
I did not think I needed to give all the years and models that do considering this forum and the thread it was asked.

In general as I said disconnecting the battery to solve an ECU problem is a bad idea and as far as I know never a procedure in any Factory Service Manual,TSB,aftermarket repair manuals or even ASE Training that I am aware of.

I do notice that your are a "mechanic".
*You're
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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-03-2018, 11:43 AM
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*You're
Occupation Mechanic
Yup and at the shop I wear a pocket protector ......

Kidding.....

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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-06-2018, 10:39 AM
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I recently started getting a P0442 and P0455 on our 2006 2.3L. I replaced the gas cap with a generic from Advance Auto, cleared the ECU codes, but it still came back. I then replaced the purge solenoid valve, cleared the codes, and it came back again a few days later. I manually tested the old PSV by blowing through it while hitting it with 12V power and it seemed to be working fine so I will keep that as a backup.

I found that if I keep the tank full I get the code less often, but I read that if the tank is full enough the test just does not run? I would like to actually fix the issue, though. Not only is it a pain to have to keep clearing the codes, I figure it is also not great for the environment, right?

Thinking at this point it might be time to take it to the shop for a smoke test unless there is an easy diagnostic that I can do at home.

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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-06-2018, 12:58 PM
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I recently started getting a P0442 and P0455 on our 2006 2.3L. I replaced the gas cap with a generic from Advance Auto, cleared the ECU codes, but it still came back. I then replaced the purge solenoid valve, cleared the codes, and it came back again a few days later. I manually tested the old PSV by blowing through it while hitting it with 12V power and it seemed to be working fine so I will keep that as a backup.

I found that if I keep the tank full I get the code less often, but I read that if the tank is full enough the test just does not run? I would like to actually fix the issue, though. Not only is it a pain to have to keep clearing the codes, I figure it is also not great for the environment, right?

Thinking at this point it might be time to take it to the shop for a smoke test unless there is an easy diagnostic that I can do at home.
If you can't find anything visually wrong then it would be best to take it in for the smoke test. Typically a large leak like the codes are indicating will show up easily with one.
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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-06-2018, 03:15 PM
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If you can't find anything visually wrong then it would be best to take it in for the smoke test. Typically a large leak like the codes are indicating will show up easily with one.
That is what I was thinking too. Everything in the engine bay looked pretty good so figured the next step was buried in the rear end and easier done with a lift. I may just back her up on ramps to see if anything jumps out first, but thinking a smoke test will be the way to go.

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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-06-2018, 05:33 PM
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That is what I was thinking too. Everything in the engine bay looked pretty good so figured the next step was buried in the rear end and easier done with a lift. I may just back her up on ramps to see if anything jumps out first, but thinking a smoke test will be the way to go.
If you want to get into it there is a small metal plate in the way of some of the stuff underneath that you may have to remove, even then I recall its pretty tight up there. There is also an access panel under the rear seat that will let you see the top of the sending unit.
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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-06-2018, 07:46 PM
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From what I read the proper way to determine what caused the DTC is and has not been done? If a part changed corrected the problem causing the DTC it would self clear on its own in a couple of days of normal driving or between 1-5 complete ECU start up run cycles.

Hopefully the clearing is done using a Diagnostic tool. And if the Diagnostic tool has the capabilities to view the monitors that can tell you a little more what is going on. The monitors from about 2000 and newer cars will hold fault information until they are corrected.
I have not yet seen any large production vehicle that will permanently store any and all DTC's that are generated in the ECU service life?

Guessing and changing parts seldom correct problem and many times creates new ones.

There is NOTHING in this thread that at this point would indicate through following a better and more correct diagnosis procedure the need for a smoke leak test yet!
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