Spin on oil filter conversion modification - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-27-2018, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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Spin on oil filter conversion modification

The pictures from the old oil filter conversion thread are gone, so I'm making a new one.

Parts required:
Everything for a standard oil change, plus
1L5G-6884-BA oil filter adapter (mine came from a Ford Fusion)
LF02-14-342 gasket
Wix 51348XP oil filter. (You can choose your own brand)
Teflon tape
brake cleaner
rags

Tools required:
pocket screwdriver
ratchet with 10mm socket and 4" extension
7/8" box wrench

Recommended tools:
Gasket scraper
1/4" and 3/8" drive torque wrenches

Optional tools:
7/8" deep well socket with impact wrench in lieu of box wrench

Gather parts and tools



Do a standard oil drain

Locate the oil sending unit wire and carefully remove it using a pocket screwdriver to depress the tab



Undo 4 10mm bolts holding the filter adapter to the engine block



Clean the engine block with rags and brake cleaner. Try not to spray brake clean directly into the engine.



Remove the oil sending unit from the old adapter. A wrench works with some force, but an impact zips it right off like butter



Using fresh teflon tape, install sending unit into new adapter housing, torque to 15 ft. lbs

Install new adapter onto engine using a new gasket, torquing the bolts to 120 in. lbs. INCH POUNDS, NOT FOOT POUNDS. 120 in. lbs. is 10 ft. lbs.

Reconnect oil pressure sending unit wire



Pour fresh oil into filter, and lube the gasket with the oil.



Spin on the new filter hand tight.



Fill with good synthetic oil (I used Mobil 1 Gold Cap)

Start engine, check for leaks



Enjoy beer.

Last edited by theblooms; 01-29-2018 at 07:19 AM.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-27-2018, 04:39 PM
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Thanks for re-posting this. I'll be doing this in a few weeks on my son's 2007 Mazda 3GT. I already have the spin-on adapter from my daughter's old 2.0L engine carcass.

I was glad that her old engine had the spin-on filter, and that her new 2.5L Ford Fusion engine has the same spin-on filter.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-28-2018, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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Which filters do you use? I'm partial to Mann, Mahle, or Wix XP, but it seems that I can't find a Mann or Mahle that will cross to this Wix.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-28-2018, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theblooms View Post
Which filters do you use? I'm partial to Mann, Mahle, or Wix XP, but it seems that I can't find a Mann or Mahle that will cross to this Wix.
I'm late the full-synthetic oil party. I'll be switching to Royal Purple HMX (for high mileage engines) at the next oil change when I do this spin-on mod, and will be using the extended life filters from Royal Purple so that I can get to the 10k mile oil change interval.

Supposedly I need to do two 5k mile oil/filter changes after introducing HMX before I can go 10k miles.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-28-2018, 07:20 PM
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Thanks for this thread. I didn't think to put a Fusion on my list as a potential donor vehicle. Outstanding pictures as well and a great write-up.

2006 Mazda 3 2.3L Hatchback 5-speed Automatic - 180K miles
I never purchase Harbor Freight tools.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-10-2018, 11:17 AM
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I've never changed the oil on a car with the cartridge filter - always took it to an oil change shop. How exactly does the cartridge come out? Does the black plastic cap unscrew? We took out the plug but could not get the plastic cap off even when I used a pipe wrench!???

So I just said screw it, and unbolted the entire assembly and threw the old assembly in the trash (after draining the oil, of course).

My son and I had a good time installing the spin-on housing and doing the oil change on his car. We're using Royal Purple HMX (high mileage) and a RP extended-life filter. The cool thing is, his engine (2.3L Mazda) and my daughters engine (2.5L Fusion transplant) and my other son's engine (2.0L Focus) now all use the same oil filter. That keeps things simple and I can buy in bulk!

One comment: the 120in-lbs of torque for the housing bolts seemed WAY too little. That was barely snug. We upped the torque to 150in-lbs which I felt better about. Thinking about other bolts on the engine, the EGR bolts torque to 174in-lbs (156-192). Was looking for some other examples but couldn't come up with anything quickly.

We used teflon tape for the threads on the oil pressure sending unit. When we wrapped the threads twice, the tape mushroomed out on us. Wrapping it just once it was much better.

We also installed a new lower engine splash guard, but made sure to get the car washed first with a mag-chloride remover for the undercarriage.

I'm glad we did the oil change, because normally we aren't underneath his car. That's a major issue with car owners. We discovered he has a minor leak at his bell housing (probably the rear main seal) and a not-so-minor leak on one of his power steering lines at a connector. Need to get that addressed once the weather is better.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-10-2018, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Datsun1600 View Post
I've never changed the oil on a car with the cartridge filter - always took it to an oil change shop. How exactly does the cartridge come out? Does the black plastic cap unscrew? We took out the plug but could not get the plastic cap off even when I used a pipe wrench!???
Yep, plastic cap unscrews. There is a filter wrench designed to fit the cap though it should never be installed as tight as yours was. The plug in the bottom is for draining the oil from the cartridge, there is a plastic piece included with the filter that screws in and opens a valve. Oddly enough, the spin-on filters cost less than the cartridge ones though they do have slightly less filter media. My cartridge housing also didn't seem to have any sort of bypass valve where as spin-on filters usually do. Oddly, early Ford 2.3 did have spin-on filters.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-11-2018, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Datsun1600 View Post
Does the black plastic cap unscrew?
Yup. They actually make a special socket for it, too. It's an OTC part number 6903. It's a 75.6mm socket with 14 flats.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Datsun1600 View Post
the 120in-lbs of torque for the housing bolts seemed WAY too little. That was barely snug. We upped the torque to 150in-lbs which I felt better about.
That's cool. All you're doing is crushing the gasket. So long as it neither falls off, leaks, nor strips out, you're good. And actully, 120 is more than you think it is. I just did a new oil pan on my wife's Honda CR-V, and the torque on her pan bolts is only 106!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Datsun1600 View Post
We used teflon tape for the threads on the oil pressure sending unit.
Absolutely, as you should on all pipe threads. I used teflon tape on mine as well, I guess I didn't mention how many wraps. I think I did two on mine, without any ill effects. Are you sure you wrapped it in the correct direction?

Last edited by theblooms; 02-11-2018 at 08:50 PM.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-12-2018, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theblooms View Post
Absolutely, as you should on all pipe threads. I used teflon tape on mine as well, I guess I didn't mention how many wraps. I think I did two on mine, without any ill effects. Are you sure you wrapped it in the correct direction?
We used teflon tape for the threads on the oil pressure sending unit. When we wrapped the threads twice, the tape mushroomed out on us. Wrapping it just once it was much better.

My son argued with me about the right direction. For me it was pretty automatic since I've wrapped a lot of pipe threads. I had to show him when the part screwed in that we weren't going against the wrapping direction. It was a good learning lesson. I really enjoy showing my kids how to work on cars.

I'd be ok with 106in-lbs on an oil pan if it either had a rubber gasket or used permatex (like probably most do these days). There are a lot of bolts holding an oil pan on! But, that is a very low torque spec to be sure.

The reason I looked up the EGR bolt torque was that it also has a metal gasket behind it and the bolts are going into aluminum threads. I cannot remember if the bolts are the same diameter, but they probably are since there are so many 10mm bolts on the engine. But, I fully agree with you on the need to crush the gasket slightly as well as not stripping out any aluminum threads! It is odd that Mazda doesn't include the torque spec for the oil housing in the factory service manual.

Thanks again for re-posting this helpful tutorial. To me, this mod is a must-do.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-18-2018, 04:20 PM
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Question Oil level question?

Just completed a swap in my 2004 3 with a 2015 Fusion 2.5 with 10K miles on it. Everything went smoothly considering that I pulled the 2.3 back in early July and it has been sitting on jack stands in my garage since then. I'm running the Fusion intake and a 2009 Mazda 6 2.5 throttle body and the Fusion valve cover. I blocked off the 2.3 dipstick hole in the pan and am only using the Fusion dip stick in the valve cover. The oil capacity with the 2.3 is 4.5 quarts and I'm using the 2.3 oil pan and Fusion oil filter setup with a motorcraft filter so I put in 4.5 quarts of 5W20 synthetic oil and ran the car and rechecked it. It reads about 1/4 quart overfilled. The stock dipstick is shorter and doesn't read in the Fusion valve cover hole so I know it is useless.

Question: Does anyone running this setup have the same discrepancy? Does the spin on filter hold less than the cartridge filter setup? Is the capacity different because of this? I don't know if I need to drain some oil out or remark the Fusion dipstick accordingly.

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