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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-04-2012, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Mazda 3 im interested in

Hello everyone, Im new here. not sure if this is the right place to post this but I really want a Mazda 3 and Im looking at one that is at a dealership right now its a 2005 5 speed with 118,000 miles. Im going to look at it tomorrow and Im just curious what problems I should look for or questions I should ask the dealer? I have seen the carfax and everything looks good on it so now Im just curious about how much I should pay for it. I have talked to the dealer on the phone and he said he would take 7300 plus taxes for it, with the miles it kbb's at about 6900 and Im of course going to talk the dealer down as much as possible but I wanted to see what you thought about that price and what I should look for. Thanks for any help guys
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-05-2012, 03:37 AM
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Hi Wyeto, I would check motor mounts, suspension, the usual stuff remember at 100,000 there are prob some general maintenance things that would need to done, check the vin on the official mazda site maybe previous owner listed some things done to it, I recently bought a 2006 3 hatch auto 2.3 for 10,000 with 74,000 miles and performed some maintenance myself since there were no records, nice car!
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-05-2012, 10:05 AM
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Where do you live, wyeto? I ask because especially in the 2004-2005 model years, lots of people complain of weak AC, especially in stop and go conditions. When test driving, I'd certainly give the AC a go, make sure you are happy with it.

I'd talk to the dealership about what warranty they might be willing to include, because on a 2005 with that mileage, there is no remaining factory warranty at all. Mazda 3's are fun, relatively inexpensive cars, meaning they are popular with young adults who sometimes drive them quite hard. It would be a plus if you could get some real coverage included (at no extra cost), especially on the engine/tranny.

Re: that price, yeah, the car's asking retail is around $7300 (given its model year and odo), but that would generally be the price for one equipped with an ATX. Manual shifts generally go for a few hundred less, since the majority of buyers don't want a manual. Also, $7300 would be the excellent condition price. If it needs any immediate work at all, the interior is less than very nice, and/or the body has more than a couple of small dings and routine chips, it should NOT be considered to be in excellent condition. Final point, the previous owner who traded it in probably got less than $5000 for it. Bottom line, there should be room for some real negotiation.

Last edited by urbanmanusa; 09-05-2012 at 12:12 PM.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 03:50 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks so much for the help guys! talla I will definitely look into those things, I couldnt get to the dealership today because its an hour away so I am planning on getting up there friday and I will definitely keep what you said in mind. I was given a carfax and everything looked good on it no accidents or anything like that and it even said it should be worth 130 over retail book price. I have the VIN and ill go to the mazda site now and see if I can find anything.
URBAN Im just south of the Bay Area so if the AC isnt the best it isnt generally the end of the world for me but a very good thing to consider nonetheless. That is a great idea I will have to see what kind of warranty they would offer. I am new to this whole car thing as this is my first real car. My father originally bought me a 96 toyota tercel that he maintained and did the work on so I am a stranger to the whole car buying thing. Since I have been saving my money for quite a while and sold my car I really want to know Im getting something that is a good buy and I really want to learn a lot more about cars and how to do my own maintenance and care for them. anything else to consider when talking the dealer down? As I said Im going friday and the dealership is an hour away so I want to go there as few times as possible since I work a lot and am going to school full time
thanks again for the help guys
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 10:45 AM
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Some things to remember:

1) Don't forget about tax, title, doc fees, etc. Make sure you're negotiating with an understanding of a total/out-the-door price, and don't be afraid to walk away.

2) Budget for repair and replacement of some wear parts at 115k miles, you don't know what is/isn't worn out...

3) If you can, get the car inspected by a third party. Might cost you $100, but it'll pay for itself in the end. Odds are very good that this car was purchased at auction, given the mileage, and the dealership probably hasn't put a ton of $$ into fixing it up.

4) Read a LOT of reviews before moving forward with any kind of extended warranty. I've heard more bad than good about them.

5) If you're considering financing the car, check out local credit unions. The rates are usually a lot better than what you'll get from a commercial bank or other dealer-arranged financing.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 03:47 PM
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If they sense you are in a hurry, and want to come to the dealership as few times as possible, it will hurt your ability to get a good deal. They'll stall, make you wait in an uncomfortable chair, and lots of other little mind tactics to break down your patience.

The car inspection is a good idea, AFTER you have agreed price. Just say, I'll pay $xxxx, but its contingent on the inspection not showing major probs. And don't accept that the dealership mechanics checked it out. That means little.

And I agree on the warranty. I am not saying pay for it, I am saying will the dealer give you, say, 30 or 60 days on anything big happening to the major components? There are some dealers near where I live who include this.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by URBANmanusa View Post
If they sense you are in a hurry, and want to come to the dealership as few times as possible, it will hurt your ability to get a good deal. They'll stall, make you wait in an uncomfortable chair, and lots of other little mind tactics to break down your patience.

The car inspection is a good idea, AFTER you have agreed price. Just say, I'll pay $xxxx, but its contingent on the inspection not showing major probs. And don't accept that the dealership mechanics checked it out. That means little.

And I agree on the warranty. I am not saying pay for it, I am saying will the dealer give you, say, 30 or 60 days on anything big happening to the major components? There are some dealers near where I live who include this.
Good idea on the inspection after price negotiation - the only place the price is going to go, as a result of the inspection, is down.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 09:03 PM
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the mazdaspeed 3 wasn't introduced until 2007, so if this vehicle is actually a 2005 then you're either off in your terminology or the dealer is misrepresenting the vehicle.


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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 09:19 PM
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I think you misread the op...2005......5 speed....not a 2005 speed


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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-08-2012, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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well didnt end up getting that car the "dealer" (I say that because this wasnt a traditional dealership just an office in a random building with one guy trying to sell this car.) wouldnt budge on 7300 which with taxes and fees would be 8100 or so and it was missing the radio and a fog light and looked kinda beat on the interior and exterior so I walked away from that. I am now looking at another 2005 mazda 3 that looks to be in really good condition but has 129k on it. The thing Im happy about is its from a private seller, hes asking 6900 obo and my budget is 8-8.5 so I would have a nice bit left over if I could talk him down 400 or 500. what do you guys think about the deal? Im kinda weary about a car with that many miles but if I can save some money that would be good what do you guys think about a 3 with 129 on it?
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