High Mileage Thread - Page 19 - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum
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post #181 of 203 (permalink) Old 05-09-2015, 08:40 AM
Moped Rider
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: mass/maine
Posts: 14
2005 mtx 2.0 sedan, 5-speed. 184K and rising, 145 mile round trip commute to work daily. Semi-regular oil changes, on its 3rd set of tires, just replaced original pads and rotors (mostly highway miles). Never had a CEL, just starting to get the "clunk" from the rear suspension but it doesn't seem to have any effects the radio volume can't fix. Most reliable vehicle I've ever had, still getting 34-36 mpg running 80 mph with the a/c pumping!
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post #182 of 203 (permalink) Old 05-29-2015, 08:42 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Antonio, TX
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2010 Mazda 3 2.5L ATX, 124K miles and rising. 50 mile round trip commute into the big city, which I do everyday though only five days for work. On third set of tires. I have followed suggested maintenance schedule in the owners manual. I've replaced front brake pads, had rotors reground and brake lines flushed. New battery at 72K. Full synthetic oil change every 5K. Click through for a more detailed account. http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthre...081&highlight=

Edited cause I hit post too soon.

2010 Mazda 3 2.5L S

Last edited by zoomie; 05-29-2015 at 08:46 AM.
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post #183 of 203 (permalink) Old 07-26-2015, 08:04 PM
Bicycle Rider
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
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2005 SP23 hatch. Got it with 7k now has 327,500 and still going strong. Daily driver. Original motor and trans, never any major work. 3 batteries, countless sets of tires, 4 wheel brake job, rears at 150k, front at 250k, set of motor/trans mounts, rear shocks, (original fronts, guess I should change those), 3 sets of plugs. That's about it. Amazing car.
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post #184 of 203 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 12:26 PM
JT
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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Originally Posted by JT View Post
2004 Mazda3 hatch. 298,200 miles, but I've only put 5000 miles on it over the past three years due to driving another car. It's been sitting all winter and needs a lot of work, but it still rolls down the road. Trying for 300,000 with my fingers crossed.
5+ months later and I'm still stuck at 298,200. Car has been sitting since then due to some kind of electrical problem. After a long winter of not driving it, I installed a new batter and the car started right up. However, the next day it wouldn't despite showing full power inside with the electrical system (windows, lighting, radio, etc). I'm guessing something with the wiring to and from the starter, or the starter itself. I just haven't been motivated to get it fixed. Meanwhile, the rotors are looking pretty rusted. I hope it'll still roll once I decide to get this thing running again.


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post #185 of 203 (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 02:25 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: ga
Posts: 31
2006 Mazda 3 Gt HB 5-spd with 202,100 miles on her. I'm the third owner , and I put about 48,417 since 5/2012 miles on her. Still avg. 31-32 mpg. Cold air intake is the only performance mod on her, beside lighter 5-zigen wheels on her. In my time of ownership I done trans mount, both front outter tie-rods, front brakes pads, rear 02 sensor, replaced the coil-overs with stock.

Last edited by 2turbo4u; 09-06-2015 at 02:48 PM.
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post #186 of 203 (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 03:47 PM
Grand Am Series
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Is Pennsylvania
Posts: 271
146k miles, issues have been a ripped cv boot due to lowering the car, pcv replaced due to its old thought it was time, rear suspension clunks due to bad trailing arm bushings, my doors lock but only driver side unlocks. Unresolved rust on uni body and rear quarters due to harsh pa roads, they put lime it in that just eats everything. Dash light for the passenger seats comes n goes, witch I think is from sliding the seat back n forth, new front control arm due to worn bushing, door opener and cable broke off couple days ago. Rear control arm bushing shot when lowering my car snapped shock studs, snapped a stud on my trans mount, due to over torque blown pmm, new front bumber due to hitting a fox, NO MOTOR ISSUES AS OF YET compression was done 160 across the bored but all I did was remove fuel and spark plugs I believe your suppose to remove a bolt on the block not sure if that affect it either was I was in the good range, checking valves soon, I'm keeping it as a dd with some minor parts still worth saving with rust and a over torqued trans mount

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post #187 of 203 (permalink) Old 09-14-2015, 02:54 PM
Grand Am Series
 
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Chandler, TX
Posts: 319
Talking

'04 hatch with almost 270,000 miles, bought new in Feb 2004.

Rear wheel arches completely rusted out (life in Michigan)
Replaced intake manifold at around 60k (right after the warranty expired-$400)
Third set of front brakes, 5th? set of rear brakes
Shocks and struts at 120k
Front wheel bearings on both sides
Both front lower control arms
Both outer tie rod ends
Rear lower control arm forward bushings
Transmission mount
No idea how many sets of tires (5? 6?)
Changed spark plugs once at 75k
Replaced both driveshafts (one worn, one a repair shop screw-up)
Probably a dozen headlights (silverstars are complete crap)
Extended MAP harness for CAI

Current issues:
Need to replace t-stat
P0446 emission code
Defective HVAC fan switch that causes A/C to cut out intermittently
Tailpipe hanger rusted through so the pipe bangs on the rear subframe sometimes
Right side e-brake is sticking

All in all, it's been a great car. With the exception of the intake manifold, everything that has been done is just maintenance. I haven't had any failures of any kind and the car has never left me stranded. I even have a trailer hitch on it and have hauled up to a ton behind it. She just keeps on truckin.

~Kane
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post #188 of 203 (permalink) Old 09-14-2015, 02:56 PM
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Chandler, TX
Posts: 319
Quote:
Originally Posted by JT View Post
5+ months later and I'm still stuck at 298,200. Car has been sitting since then due to some kind of electrical problem. After a long winter of not driving it, I installed a new batter and the car started right up. However, the next day it wouldn't despite showing full power inside with the electrical system (windows, lighting, radio, etc). I'm guessing something with the wiring to and from the starter, or the starter itself. I just haven't been motivated to get it fixed. Meanwhile, the rotors are looking pretty rusted. I hope it'll still roll once I decide to get this thing running again.
I had to re-do the starter solenoid wire on mine a couple times. It's a simple spade terminal and loses it's springiness sometimes. Assuming it's not a neutral safety switch, that's your likely culprit.

~Kane
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post #189 of 203 (permalink) Old 09-22-2015, 10:38 PM
Go-Kart Driver
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Somewhere around Boston
Posts: 56
2005 Hatch S Touring, Manual. Just shy of 150,000 miles. Still original clutch (knocking on wood).

First repair at 80,000 miles, passenger side engine mount.

Then front struts at 105,000 miles.

Next it was the right front wheel bearing, I think at 120,000 or so.

Most recent it was the lower arms, bushings were gone, around 135,000.

Did the front brakes once. I think I still have the original in the back.

Rear wheel arches starting to rust were they join the bumper.

Windshield washer pump died, royal pain to change it (remove the front bumper... Really Mazda?????!!!)

This is the car I have had the longest in my whole life. Very happy with it, the engine and transmission are untouched, it still feels and run as new.

Will probably change it next year. 99.99999% chances it will be another 3s hatch.

Life is Too Short to Drive a Boring Car
2017 Soul Red Mazda3 GT HB, Manual​, Prem Equip Pkg
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post #190 of 203 (permalink) Old 09-25-2015, 08:15 PM
Go-Kart Driver
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Rockford, MN
Posts: 84
2012 Mazda3 iTouring hatch with the SkyActiv 6MT. 120k miles and absolutely loving it!

Nothing but routine maintenance. Struts starting to leak and occasional hard runs at the track.

Mods I have done are a CorkSport SRI and a CorkSport CBE w/racepipe. Everything else is still stock. OE brakes and OE clutch from the factory, still hasn't been changed out. Did get a new set of tires though.

I road rally a lot with Rally North America and hasn't skipped a beat at all!
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