Suspension: Worth it to Repair? - Page 2 - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum
 4Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 01:49 PM
Le Mans: Prototype Class
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 1,029
Quote:
Originally Posted by m3iguy View Post
This is a Canadian '04, so IMO almost every type of ugly problem is likely to be in play with this vehicle.
That is one point that I didn't take into account. I live in the South, and rust is pretty foreign to us. I stand corrected. I'll give some actual advice now. Thank you for your wise insight.

As far as a sticking rotor goes, kick the living shit out of it donkey style, it'll come off, even if rusty.

As far as the bleeder valve goes, just don't mess with it. Take the cap off of the master cylinder and use a c-clamp to push the piston back in.

Including the lug nuts, you only have 9 bolts per side to undo with a MZ3 brake job. 5 on the wheel, 2 slider pins, 2 caliper bracket bolts. That's literally all there is to take apart. If you have rust, spray the hell out of the bracket bolts with a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. You may want to use a wire brush on the end of a drill to remove any loose rust.

Really, that's it.

Again, I apologize for not thinking about any rust that may be there. m3iguy was correct in his assessment.
theblooms is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 04:28 PM
Short Track Racer
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: DC suburbs (Virginia)
Posts: 174
Garage
@theblooms - I did change my transmission fluid according to the Honda schedule and still had issues!

2005 Mazda 3s (Strong Bad) Black|5 speed|2.3|Sunroof|6 CD|ABS
2013 Ford Escape Titanium (Trogdor)
bolt in blue is offline  
post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 06:03 PM
Le Mans: Prototype Class
 
madmatt2024's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 1,782
Quote:
Originally Posted by theblooms View Post
I live in the South, and rust is pretty foreign to us. I stand corrected. I'll give some actual advice now. Thank you for your wise insight.

As far as a sticking rotor goes, kick the living shit out of it donkey style, it'll come off, even if rusty.
You clearly underestimate rust. I had to beat my front rotors off with a sledge hammer.
theblooms likes this.
madmatt2024 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 07:37 PM
Le Mans: Prototype Class
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 1,029
Quote:
Originally Posted by madmatt2024 View Post
You clearly underestimate rust. I had to beat my front rotors off with a sledge hammer.
I guess. I've never seen anything like you describe there in my life. And I've done *a lot* of brake jobs, on a lot of different makes and models of cars and trucks. I guess we're lucky like that.

Last edited by theblooms; 01-18-2017 at 07:40 PM.
theblooms is offline  
post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-20-2017, 06:56 PM
Bicycle Rider
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by theblooms View Post
As far as the bleeder valve goes, just don't mess with it. Take the cap off of the master cylinder and use a c-clamp to push the piston back in.
What????
If you are using a c-clamp anywhere near your brake "master cylinder" then put the tools down and pay someone to do it.
If you actually mean use a c-clamp to push the piston in on the caliper, then yeah that's how you get the piston back in so the caliper will go over the new pads.
But that still has nothing to do with bleeding the brakes and dealing with a seezed bleeder screw.
Maybe just lay off the advice for a while.
Wogger23 is offline  
post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-21-2017, 09:17 AM
Le Mans: Prototype Class
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 1,029
You totally misunderstood me.

You have to take the cap off of the master cylinder before you push the caliper piston back in with a C-clamp. And I do enough brake jobs, I actually got a disc brake piston kit that takes the place of a C-clamp. If you only have one job to do every 4 or 5 years, it's not worth the money, I don't think, so a regular C-clamp will suffice. It also makes doing rear brakes super easy because to push those pistons in, you have to turn the piston while simultaneously pushing in. Without the kit, it can be a massive pain in the ass. And with our cars, those little cube things that you get from the auto parts store don't work.

You don't need to bleed the brakes unless you get air in the lines. You won't get air in the lines if you don't open the system. Therefore you don't need to mess with the bleeder valves.

theblooms is offline  
post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-21-2017, 12:08 PM
Le Mans: Prototype Class
 
madmatt2024's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 1,782
Quote:
Originally Posted by theblooms View Post
You have to take the cap off of the master cylinder before you push the caliper piston back in with a C-clamp
I've never had to. The caps have to be vented in some way or the brake system wouldn't work correctly.
madmatt2024 is offline  
post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 05:58 PM
Bicycle Rider
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by theblooms View Post
You totally misunderstood me.

You have to take the cap off of the master cylinder before you push the caliper piston back in with a C-clamp. And I do enough brake jobs, I actually got a disc brake piston kit that takes the place of a C-clamp. If you only have one job to do every 4 or 5 years, it's not worth the money, I don't think, so a regular C-clamp will suffice. It also makes doing rear brakes super easy because to push those pistons in, you have to turn the piston while simultaneously pushing in. Without the kit, it can be a massive pain in the ass. And with our cars, those little cube things that you get from the auto parts store don't work.

You don't need to bleed the brakes unless you get air in the lines. You won't get air in the lines if you don't open the system. Therefore you don't need to mess with the bleeder valves.
Yep, I definitely took your post wrong.

FYI, you don't have to remove the master cylinder cap. It will vent just fine when you push the caliper piston in.

And even though you don't normally get air in the system, contaminants and moisture do build up over time. You'd be surprised what a good flush and bleed will do for brake feel.
Wogger23 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum > Mazda3 General Discussion > Mazda3 (Axela)

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



  LinkBacks (?)
LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.mazda3forums.com/57-mazda3-axela/739698-suspension-worth-repair.html
Posted By For Type Date
Mazda3 (Axela) [Archive] - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum This thread Refback 11-04-2017 05:44 PM

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Smoking turbo in Stockton ca 209..repair shop tacos? kevina925 Northwest 1 11-02-2016 04:24 PM
Suspension Upgrade HatchbackLife Suspension / Brakes 3 10-13-2016 01:51 AM
Both MS3 Sways on MZ3, worth it? DJ_SpaRky Suspension / Brakes 15 08-28-2016 09:19 AM

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
8