I understand it not a video game lol, I got 270bhp from the forums, I've seen people people saying our stock internals can handle up to 300base and our tranny can handle 350base. I've also read that the 2.0 and the 2.3 from 2008 are built on the same block, maybe I'm wrong but wouldn't boring the block to 2.3 leave me with the same wall clearance as a factory 2.3? I'm not wanting to run rich, however after I install headers/intake/cam shouldn't I adjust the a/f ratio because I'm taking in more air? Run a little richer maybe advance timing? Raising my compression ratio should net gains too across the whole powerband right?
I have concidered forced induction but I gave up when I learned our cars are already 10:1, I couldn't find any good low compression pistons or shorter rods, would a decomp plate be a good idea?
If I can get compression to safe number like 7:1 maybe 8:1 I'd go ahead and turbo it and run around 7 pounds of boost.
I don't really want to do an engine swap as the 5speed mz3 2.0 is the only 3 from that generation with a Japanese motor (sorry I hate Ford, always an issue with something).
I want to make a sleeper daily.
I also heard that our cars factory run pretty lean, so wouldn't a stock a/f tune get at least 10-15 hp increase WITHOUT all the breathing mods?
As far as my mods go right now, I'm not trying to get gains, I'm basically prepping for the cam so I can tune right after install to get the most out of it.
Will a accessport work for a mz3? How should I go about tuning?
Please correct me if I'm wrong in any of this
Anyone on a forum that told you they got 270hp from this 2.0L without forced induction or nitrous is full of it.
Yes, the 2.0 and 2.3 are built on the same block but the bore size is also the same, that extra .3L is all from using a different stroke, not a larger bore.
If you do all that work then to get the most gains you need to get it tuned. The Accessport is only for the MazdaSpeed version, Mazdaedit is the only software that can tune the 2.0L and you should have the tuning done professionally, you can really mess things up otherwise. Forced induction is the way to go if you want power, there is nothing that says you can't turbo an engine with a 10:1 CR, whoever tunes it just needs to be good and know what they are doing. You just acknowledged the the 2.0L and 2.3L are the same block but somehow you think the 2.0L is a "Japanese motor" Wrong. They are ALL technally Ford motors, the logo is cast right into the block. The Focus even had the 2.0L and 2.3L as its engine options for years. Who told you our cars run lean from the factory. They actually run rich, my AFR is 10.9 at WOT. Also, that 3" exhaust you have is likely hurting your performance, not helping it. There is no reason to go larger than 2 1/4" on an N/A 2.0L, the factory 2" I believe is actually ideal if you replace the muffler on it.
:Edit: Sorry shipo, I didn't see your post before making mine. You pretty much said the same thing and I wasn't trying to copy you.
If you want to stay N/A then your best bet is to get a 2.5L. They are dirt cheap, actually have a lager bore, and the cylinders sleeves are stronger than the 2.0/2.3. Build that motor, drop it in, and have it dynotuned. Or, buy a wrecked MazdaSpeed 3 and swap everything into your car.
To give you an idea of what it takes to build a high power N/A 4 cylinder...
And this is an engine with a lot of aftermarket support, ours have far less which means custom parts.