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#1 |
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Moped Rider
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So after months of researching and a CEL that goes on and off, and is now permanently on, I'm going to try to put all the info I've learned into this one thread, and hopefully ya'll can add and help me with a few last questions. Apparently this is an EXTREMELY common problem with our cars...
Symptoms: Rough or erratic Idle Idle Hunting When coming to a stoplight, engine stalls After coming to a stop, engine stalls Hard start after filling gas tank Loss of low-end torque CEL codes: P2186 P2187 P0455 Culprit: Purge Solenoid Control Valve Just talked to a few Mazda stealerships who all said the same thing: "Mazda 3's eat these things up." Prices quoted for the valve ranged from $110-$179. And for those shopping, is there a recommended website to buy OEM Mazda parts from?
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2005 Mystic Blue ///M3 SMG Coupe 2004 Silver-Gray ///M3 6-Speed Convertible (For Sale!) 8300 miles 1999 Estoril Blue ///M3 5-Speed Coupe Driven to work: 2005 Mazda 3s/4 5-Speed Driven at work: USCG MH-65C "Dauphine" (Turbomeca 2C2-CG) |
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#2 |
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Moped Rider
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Update:
The correct part number for a 2005 2.3L is LF66-20-360K. I paid $105.23 thought a wholesale account at my local dealership. The dang solenoid purge valve comes as part of an assembly (brackets, hose clamps, etc), most of it you will not need. To install: 1. Remove the hose and clamp from the aft part of the purge valve closest to the firewall. Separate the purge valve itself from the bracket assembly after undoing the single plug on top. I just pulled it out of the circular rubber piece that holds it in place. 2. LEAVE the hose that came with the new valve on! The junction is an updated one, and may help in preventing future leaks. Breaking this connection can cause premature failure of the new assembly. 3. Follow the line towards the front of the car to where it connects to the forward part of the intake manifold, just downstream of the throttle body. You will see a read plastic clip fitting. 4. Preferably on a warm engine, carefully spread the read clip apart to release it, and pull the old hose straight off. If the ambient temperature is very cold, this clip may break due to brittle plastic. No worries, the new hose assembly comes with new parts. 5. Simply install the hose until the red clip snaps into place, slip the new purge valve into place, plug it in, and re-connect the hose and clamp on the aft side. 6. Reset battery and voila! CEL and all aforementioned issues are gone!
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2005 Mystic Blue ///M3 SMG Coupe 2004 Silver-Gray ///M3 6-Speed Convertible (For Sale!) 8300 miles 1999 Estoril Blue ///M3 5-Speed Coupe Driven to work: 2005 Mazda 3s/4 5-Speed Driven at work: USCG MH-65C "Dauphine" (Turbomeca 2C2-CG) |
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#3 |
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Le Mans: Prototype Class
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not having this problem... but thanks for the information and walk through.
good job.
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#4 |
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Bicycle Rider
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 5
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Nice walk through. I just want to know why they sent me a bracket. I tried to take the old one off but the part that holds the engine cover was connected to a bolt. I can't figure out how to remove the two pieces so the old bracket will have to do.
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#5 |
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Short Track Racer
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ontario
Posts: 107
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Having the issue with hard starts and rough idle, no stall so far. But where can i get parts for the 2004 2.3L mazda, i only see 2005 listed.
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#6 |
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Le Mans: GT Class
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Ladera Ranch, CA
Posts: 583
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I have these SAME exact symptoms thank you for writing this it realy helped
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