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#1 |
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Short Track Racer
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While I was changing my oil this weekend, I was taking some time to check the level of the rest of the fluids.
Everything looked fine, except the shared clutch / brake fluid level. I cant see any fluid up the plastic stalk at all. Unless the fluid is clear like water, I cant see anything, and theres a little plastic flap, so I can't stick my finger or a meter stick in there to measure it. Last I checked, clutch and brake fluid is pretty dark and thick... and the plastic stalk is fairly transparent, so I should defenitely be able to see it. Nothing even near the "Min" line.. On a side note, I get a "clunk" sound when I engage a gear sometimes... like if I go 1-2, into 2 I get a clunk sometimes. Same with 3-2, downshifting. Its not all the time, so it could just be the syncros meshing differently depending on where the engagement point is... who knows :? Any ides?
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2006 Mazda 3 Grand Touring / Strato Blue / Black Leather Heated Seats / Moonroof / Bose 6 CD Changer / 5 Speed Manual |
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#2 |
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Le Mans: Prototype Class
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That reservoir is the worts design ever in the world, if you cannot see it its not normal its hard to read it but its visible.
Don't try to stick anything in the reservoir just go by visual reading, cann't see it add some more
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Driving a 2010 mazda 3 gt with sunroof bone stock SOLD: Mazda3 2005 Black mica 5dr, CAI AEMwith AEM dryflow, Custom grounding cables, TWM SS, ETB Coolant Bypass, AWR 70d engine mount, Advance Timming Mod, Cosworth Bsd, The only mazda 3 with dealer removed speed limit yey...230km/h |
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#3 |
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F1 Driver
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this is a bit of a bump :shock: but i'm sort of in the same predicament here. Is there a good how to on how to change the fluid out?
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#4 |
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Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Ellicott City, MD
Posts: 9,432
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Do you mean add more or flush it?
To add more take top off, top it off, top back on ![]() For flushing, you open each brake line and the clutch line. Do a search for brake bleeding for the exact procedure (it works the same way with the clutch). Start with the passenger side rear, drain the fluid till you have nice fresh fluid coming out. Then bleed the driver's side rear, passenger side front, driver's side front and finally the clutch line. -Matt
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[quote author=crazyduckme] Yay for doing it by hand then! That will probably last about an hour tops.I was craving meat REALLY bad. plus, my mom gets really hot, so I was uncomfortable. So I have to really stretch. [/quote] |
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#5 |
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Le Mans: GT Class
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 944
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Its probably a good time to check the brake pads as well, especiallyif you do a flush. As the pad wears the fluid level will drop.
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#6 |
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Go-Kart Driver
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 60
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REVIVE!!! Does anybody know when when to change brake/clutch fluid? Mine has 45k 2008 mzd3.
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#7 |
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Senior Member
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it's not a bad idea to do a flush with pad/rotor changes. brake fluid isnt that expensive and the nature of it causes problems if not maintained. specifically absorbing water.
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MS CAI - F2 CBE - ACT Flywheel - ACT Clutch - ACT Pressure Plate - MS 6 Speed Trans - TWM Desert Eagle Shift Knob - MS Springs - MS Shocks - MS Rear Camber Links - Techna-fit SS Brake Lines - Hawk HPS Pads - Cosworth BSD - Ported TB - 2.0L Oil Filter Conversion - LED Door Sills - Sharkfin Antenna - 35% Tint |
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#8 |
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Moped Rider
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 25
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brake fluid flushes are usually done around 30k mile intervals. As stated before, if the fluid in the master cylinder is low, that means there is either a leak in the system of the brakes are low and need replacement.
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