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Old 12-16-2003, 05:35 PM   #1
rpc180
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Default Problem: (Long) Crank Times - Bad Fuel Pump

Anyone have long crank times after a few hours? If mine's sat overnight it seems to take alot of tries before the engine turns over in cold NY. Even if its only been a few hours, it takes longer to start. I guess I'm spoiled, but I'm used to about half a second before the engine turns over, especially in a new car.

EDIT: Title
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Old 12-16-2003, 06:01 PM   #2
TMMA
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Default Problem: (Long) Crank Times - Bad Fuel Pump

I had the same problem on the first week I got my car. I brought it back to the dealer right away, they did some test for me (can't remember what's the test called) and recharged the battery. Now the problem seems to be gone.
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Old 12-16-2003, 11:42 PM   #3
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Default Problem: (Long) Crank Times - Bad Fuel Pump

Works fine on mine so far... About half a second.
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Old 12-17-2003, 10:53 AM   #4
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Default Problem: (Long) Crank Times - Bad Fuel Pump

I noticed on my Jetta, when I got her new, that she hesitated to start as well. I initially thought it was the battery.. come to find out I used too high of octane gas for the break in.
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Old 12-17-2003, 10:27 PM   #5
rpc180
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Default Problem: (Long) Crank Times - Bad Fuel Pump

Made an appointment with the dealer, can't be checked until the 23rd ... there was a thread about someone's battery dying about a month ago. Even though mine's at 200 miles already, overall driving time is under 5 hours probably - batteries recharge when coupled to an active engine, so maybe its still low?

Octane, I dunno, I'm still on my first tank from the dealer, I have no clue what they put in
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Old 12-17-2003, 11:29 PM   #6
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Default Problem: (Long) Crank Times - Bad Fuel Pump

Typically, its good for the first 1k miles to use the lowest octane. Why? So the motor is able to fully burn all the fuel in the chamber.

Thats what I heard, and after my Jetta hesitated a few times, Im a believer.
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Old 12-18-2003, 05:41 AM   #7
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Default Problem: (Long) Crank Times - Bad Fuel Pump

The recommended octane level according to the manual is 87 (and above). You dun need a high octane on this car. The maximum octane level I would go is 89.
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Old 01-07-2004, 01:16 AM   #8
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Default I blew the whole damn thing...

Well, I guess I'm just fueling the fire (no pun intended).

I've had this problem since the day I drove my car off the lot (Dec. 20). I took mine in for service today, although Mazda couldn't replicate the hard start.

While they couldn't replicate, they did load test the battery, sure enough it failed. The replaced, it passed all tests. I drove it off the lot, went 4 miles, car sat 30 minutes, trouble turning over.

I've been using premium since the third tank of gas (was 87 for first, 89 for second, 91/92 on the last two tanks). That could be the culprit by some accounts.

I also have a butt-load of soot/cabon deposit on my exhaust tip.

My "other" thought - this car uses the electronic keychip passive disable system. I don't think that the chip registers in time for the engine to crank, so it just sits there - but that could be a culprit of the battery too.
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Old 01-07-2004, 01:21 AM   #9
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Default Problem: (Long) Crank Times - Bad Fuel Pump

You shouldn't have mixed the fuel.
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Old 01-07-2004, 01:22 AM   #10
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Default Re: I blew the whole damn thing...

Quote:
Originally Posted by "DJ Spencer"
My "other" thought - this car uses the electronic keychip passive disable system. I don't think that the chip registers in time for the engine to crank, so it just sits there - but that could be a culprit of the battery too.
Easiest way to find out: Turn the key quickly and try to start the car. Yes, Ive already done it (on the test vehicle... not mine, you crazy?!?) and it doesnt seem like there is. I could be wrong though.

On other cars that have keypass or "chips" (really its a resistor on GMs) they dont start if done quickly.
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