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alxgmpr's HID and LED project.

8K views 40 replies 4 participants last post by  alxgmpr 
#1 · (Edited)
I'm planning some pretty major lighting upgrades on my 05, and I wanted to make a compilation thread so that others can reference my work. I'll be breaking down all the work into sections and I'll divide my work among the sections.

There are a few goals of this project:
  1. Functionality: I'm not adding underglow or RGB obnoxious halos. Lights must serve a saftey or utility purpose. I'll make an exception for a fancy DRL later on though.
  2. Dependable: I'm doing this in large chunks so that I'm not baking my headlights often. I understand that some on-the-job learning will be a necessity, but I need to be able to count on all my intended functions to work.
  3. Safe: The work that I do must be completely safe for myself and other drivers. That means no PNP HID, proper projector tuning and positioning, and using the proper materials and supplies (i.e. no crappy components burning out or improper heat sinks killing my LEDs).
  4. Consistent: I want this to be as professional as possible. Work needs to be tasteful instead of simply trying to turn heads. Light temperatures must be the same, and no lights ought to be added just for fun.

There are also 3 different target areas of my work:
  • Interior (includes dashboard, dome lights, etc.)
  • Exterior front (HID/LED/DRL is the main component of this)
  • Exterior rear (LED is the main component of this)

I'm not going to exclusively work on one section exclusively at a time. It will come in chunks as this is a daily driver (95k and counting baby, bring it on) so it can't be out of service for much more than a weekend. Here's my planned breakdown of the work. As I complete work, I'll add notes and photos and other information to each item in the index.

Previously completed:
  • Map lights: VLEDS 6k 194 (x2) (too bright!)
  • Dome lights: VLEDS 6k 31mm
  • Glovebox light: VLEDS 6k 194
  • Ash tray light: VLEDS 6k 74
  • License plate lights: VLEDS 6k 194 (x2)
  • Trunk light: VLEDS 6k 31mm (x2)
  • 3rd brake light: VLEDS red 194 (stock is 921)
  • HVAC backlight: VLEDS red 74 (x2)

Try to ignore the VLEDs brand whoring, I'm just kinda picky that way.

Areas of Work - Updated December 1, 2014
Pics coming soon of independent fogs + Hoen Endurance + yellow Lamin-X

Exterior Front
  • Mini D2S retrofit. (waiting on some hardware to install.)
    • XB35 bulbs (ordered Three5 4300k D2S, will upgrade if retro goes well)
    • Forgot to get high beam splitters -_-
  • Tinted sidemarkers. (completed!, see Krystm's Garage tutorial)
    • Upgrade to LED via cutting open.
    • Probably will use some VLEDs amber 194 LEDs. I ordered them a while ago to swap in the sidemarkers...didn't know that they were sealed -_-
  • Umnitza Orion V2 DRL halos (ordered!)
    • Includes wiring harness. I want to get them to fade on on unlock. We'll see.
  • DIY LED 1157 turn signal/corner marker bulb (next to be ordered)
  • Hoen Endurance halogen fog lights (completed! pic)
  • Independent fog light mod (completed!)
    • Special thanks to Upashi for providing wiring diagrams for the mod
    • Slaved fog lights to ignition line so I use them like DRLs. When angel eyes come I'll probably only use them for actual fog lol.

Exterior Rear
  • OEM LED tail lights (not ordered)
    • If I can't find a pair of used OEM, I'll get a set of Depo's
    • Next-to impossible to cut open which limits retro possibilities
  • DIY LED 921 3rd brake light (currently 194 red VLED)
  • DIY LED 7440 amber turn signal (if prev. DIY results well)
  • DIY LED 7440 6k reverse light (not started)
    • Will likely jimmy an X.DRL1 from TRS into the housing, searching for one used

Interior
  • Footwell lighting (if it doesn't look obnoxious...?)
    • Don't want this to be bright, just enough to be helpful
  • Tinted map/dome light lenses (in progress)
    • I'm writing up a quick tutorial on this. Soon.
    • Map lights we're too bright. Tinting those first. If it looks cool I'll do dome.
  • Cupholder accent lights (if it doesn't look obnoxious)
    • Need magnetic reed switch for cover to avoid light bleeding
    • Needs proper diffusion throughout, rather than 2 points of light
  • DIY LED power window switch lights (not started)
  • Brighter drivers power window switch light ("auto" switch, not started)
  • Brighter steering wheel controls (if it can be done)

That's the plan as of right now. I'll keep you guys posted as I think this will be really fun and very satisfying once completed, and I really want to share the time and effort that's going into all this. If you have ideas, tips, questions, or whatever, I'd welcome them.
 
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#2 ·
I would only caution to make sure you use a dimmable bulb/LED in the place of any interior lights that were factory dimmable. A brighter bulb looks nice, but in inclinent weather it'll be a distraction.

Looking forward to seeing all the work.
 
#3 ·
I know what you mean. Right now the PNP bulbs from VLEDS have been dimming in my map and dome lights (opening and closing the doors).

I think the interior lights will be the most difficult as almost none of the lamps are simple PNP bulbs, and I'll have to do adequate work investigating what current specifics they're provided at given points on the dimming switch.

My alternative to that would be to find more efficient LEDs with close-to-OEM specifications.

Thanks!
 
#4 ·
NP. Just an FYI, there are drop in side markers for our car that are LEDs, if you'd rather that than make your own. the side marker assembly is sealed, so you'd have to really hack up to convert to LED's otherwise.
 
#5 ·
Ah yes. I think I'll make a decision on how dirty I want to get my hands once I dive in. I think thespeedline also makes a PNP LED 3rd brake light that's a nice drop in. But I've never really done work with high power LEDs, and to be honest, I'm very excited to get back into them.
 
#6 ·
I like what you intent for " tasteful" custom work on lighting.
I have done tons of lighting design and custom work. Hope I can share some information that you may find useful.

Starting from headlight,

If you are strictly looking for being proper lighting, only way is to use OEM HID lamp with OEM HID system to go together.
Tuning halogen projector will not make HID system suitable.


Main reason is glare, improper beam pattern, brightness balance distribution.

Removing tab on cut off shield, paint it in flat color, those fabrication can reduce amount of glare, but this will cause too harsh brightness change at cut off border line, that can cause "view evaporation" above cut off.

Also putting about twice the output volume HID lamp in halogen optics will simply output too much illumination. It seems to be nice but many lab test finding brighter does not always mean better view. Typically explained as " too much of foreground lighting" will occur in this case.




Sadly,,, OEM HID projector for Mazda3 isn't that good. Pretty narrow beam pattern and also not intense either. It's because of reflector bowl surface finish uses aluminium deposition, while other higher performance projector uses silver deposition. Still stronger and slightly wider beam than halogen projector though.

Not proper in strict detail, but more satisfying result will be retrofitting other higher performance HID projector.

I had fit RL, TSX, and TL Bi-Xenon projector into gen one housing. So those are confirmed to be retrofit-able with reasonable work.
With some more extra work, OEM LED projector start becoming easier to adopt, such as 2014 Corolla, Rogue Koito LED projector.
Those are single emitter single optic design, and compact passive cooling.
It will not outperform HID system yet but instant ON and low power consumption is nice.



If you insist to go with aftermarket HID system, I will stay at 35W system. Many high wattage system around, they are primary same component structure as 35W system. So higher the wattage rating, it simply pushing its drive rate, means more stress on system and less reliable beside, it will output too much light.

Any HID system used in automotive is designed to start up at around over 75W output when cold start. Once Hg vaporization complete and start stabilize arch chamber desired condition, system will gradually reduce output down to spec 35W output.
This is the reason HID system looks like start strong flash at ignite and very blue output ( Hg emit blue-ish light) then, as chamber condition stabilize for other mineral like Sc start taking over blueness of Hg emission to blend light color into desired white.
So technically, OEM HID bulb are designed to handle 75W output. But this will very rapidly wear electrode.

In what's called high wattage ballast, it also start up around 75W + (some does more than 80W+) and instead of let system calm down to 35W, it just not let system go down that far, stop at 40W~45W or so output.

Main difference is faking feed back signal so system believe it's down to 35W. You can make OEM HID ballast same way to make output much higher power, but as you can see how it's controlled, it's not good for system.

Of course, high wattage system will generate more heat.

Talking about LED turn signal and DRL, this will be very challenging when you try to make it looks OEM.
Using LED in headlight housing is challenging because not only you need to worry about heatsinking (if you are planning to use mid to high power emitters)
thermal isolation from heat source is important.



BTW,,, painting flat black, I personally prefer bit of gloss something like satin black with slight blue tint in. It loos really deep black and doesn't looks like BBQ grill kind flatness.


back to lighting,,


For DRL, have you considered to use high beam as DRL using PWM dimmer? It's old fashioned design but in terms of safely and effectiveness, it's very good choice. High beam optic is designed to shoot beam far and light up= easier to be seen, which is prime purpose of DRL.

You can make negative control PWM with 555 and there is way to make system without running wire through fire wall. ( you can modify wiring at PJB)

If you go with whatever LED design for DRL, you want to focus on beam angle with proper LED optics, not how many lumens each LED outputs.


Same idea for turn signal. It's important that you use proper optics if you use single high power emitter, or layout bunch of 50degree view angle emitters.

I made mine with single 10W emitter, output about 6W or so, need good size heatsink even it's half cycle turn signal use.
I didn't like bunch of LEDs on the board looks.


Side markers You don't need heatsink for this kind of output level. There are large selection of amber emitters.



Third Brake lamp

I don't think you need to bother control with PWM, you can of course if you feel like.
I made mine from random eBay 9 LED kind third brake lamp, just pull out reflector and combined into OEM diffuser lens.

Emitters are swapped into SnapLED. No special design, just voltage regulation with resister. Surprisingly, many OEM simple LED circuit design is voltage regulation and not current regulation for smaller power component.

Use voltage regulator to create stable +12V and use resister control is popular method.




Brake This one will be hard to achieve desired result. I retrofitted other vehicle LED reflector to use its optic benefits, but other than that, either find OEM LED tail or make completely custom design which require CUT open tail light housing.
Tail light housing closed with ultra sonic welding. You need to cut open. Both housing ( ABS ) and lens ( PMMA) material is easier to crack, so be extra careful when cut open those. Closing is another challenge.. Lots of work you should expect.

You can always control with PWM, but depend on emitter choice, you can do simple voltage regulation by resisters too. Later on, it changed to PWM controled circuit. Mazda3 OEM LED tail use 9 Snap LED in main reflectors. It uses 30degree narrow beam emitter and reflector also shoot min required view angle, make output looks very intense.
Rated about 4.5W output for Brake operation.

Other than custom work, I don't think there are much of choice LED bulb that works well in our housing.

rear turn signal, it's behind inner lens, so you can either make good bulb or layout bunch on board.





Interior lighting Other than map and dome lamp, I wouldn't try using brighter light source. It can get too bright for night time to interfere comfortable driving.
For map lamp and dome lamp, there is some room for playing around, design and color. They are both -controlled, since LED will have much faster ON-OFF response time, it will look not smooth dimming effect, but it fade out like filament original set up.



One of other my favorite interior lighting work was to flip polarization of LCD screen. So black back ground with red letter displays.
It involves some risky work but result is nice.



Looking forward to seeing your work as it's progress!!













I'm planning some pretty major lighting upgrades on my 05, and I wanted to make a compilation thread so that others can reference my work. I'll be breaking down all the work into sections and I'll divide my work among the sections.

There are a few goals of this project:
  1. Functionality: I'm not adding underglow or RGB obnoxious halos. Lights must serve a saftey or utility purpose. I'll make an exception for a fancy DRL later on though.
  2. Dependable: I'm doing this in large chunks so that I'm not baking my headlights often. I understand that some on-the-job learning will be a necessity, but I need to be able to count on all my intended functions to work.
  3. Safe: The work that I do must be completely safe for myself and other drivers. That means no PNP HID, proper projector tuning and positioning, and using the proper materials and supplies (i.e. no crappy components burning out or improper heat sinks killing my LEDs).
  4. Consistent: I want this to be as professional as possible. Work needs to be tasteful instead of simply trying to turn heads. Light temperatures must be the same, and no lights ought to be added just for fun.

There are also 3 different target areas of my work:
  • Interior (includes dashboard, dome lights, etc.)
  • Exterior front (HID is the main component of this)
  • Exterior rear (LED is the main component of this)

I'm not going to exclusively work on one section exclusively at a time. It will come in chunks as this is a daily driver (95k and counting baby, bring it on) so it can't be out of service for much more than a weekend. Here's my planned breakdown of the work. As I complete work, I'll add notes and photos and other information to each item in the index.

Thus far/previously completed:
  • Map lights: VLEDS 6k 194 (x2)
  • Dome lights: VLEDS 6k 31mm
  • Glovebox light: VLEDS 6k 194
  • Ash tray light: VLEDS 6k 74
  • License plate lights: VLEDS 6k 194 (x2)
  • Trunk light: VLEDS 6k 31mm (x2)
  • 3rd brake light: VLEDS red 194 (stock is 921)
  • HVAC backlight: VLEDS red 74 (x2)

As you can see, the previously completed list focuses on PNP bulbs on the interior. I chose VLEDS because they are accountable for their work and their LEDs are properly binned and thus their colors match.

Weekend 1: getting my feet wet
  • Bake open headlights for the first time, get accurate dimensions of stock housing positions.
  • Paint housings and reflectors. Flat black
  • Choose DRL placement
  • Independent fog light mod

Weekend 2: 3rd brake light
  • Assemble a LED layout to replace the stock single bulb.
  • Aspects need to include heat sinking if necessary, use of a PWM and voltage regulation if necessary, and a close to OEM look.

Weekend 3: HID, and LED DRL
  • Install OEM HID projectors or tune H7 projector and shrouds for HIDs. I'll be using the new Morimoto XB 50w ballasts along with 5500k XB HID elements.
  • Install DRL. This will either be homemade LED or Umnitza LED angel eyes. I'll know more after weekend 1 is done and I've gotten a better look inside.
  • Install LED parking lights. Dependent on DRL choices.

Weekend 4: side markers
  • Amber LED module. Probably wont need heatsinking here since they only come on for turn signals. These should be pretty easy but will still be a pain in the ass to manipulate since they're stuffed in the fender.
  • Tint OEM optics using VHT

Weekend 5: tail and reverse lights
  • LED brake and tail lights. Most complex out of all the LED work since it may require a PWM as well as active temperature control since it's almost always on.
  • LED turn signals (similar to the side marker, probably wont need heatsinking)
  • LED reverse lights. Lots of ideas for these, I'll have to decide later.

Weekend 6: steering wheel controls
  • Replace lights in steering wheel and dash with brighter LEDs
  • Add LED lighting to power window switches

That's the plan as of right now, and I'll be moving into weekend 1 shortly. I'll keep you guys posted as I think this will be really fun and very satisfying once completed, and I really want to share the time and effort that's going into all this. If you have ideas, tips, questions, or whatever, I'd welcome them.
 
#9 ·
Sadly,,, OEM HID projector for Mazda3 isn't that good. Pretty narrow beam pattern and also not intense either. It's because of reflector bowl surface finish uses aluminium deposition, while other higher performance projector uses silver deposition. Still stronger and slightly wider beam than halogen projector though.

Not proper in strict detail, but more satisfying result will be retrofitting other higher performance HID projector.

I had fit RL, TSX, and TL Bi-Xenon projector into gen one housing. So those are confirmed to be retrofit-able with reasonable work.
With some more extra work, OEM LED projector start becoming easier to adopt, such as 2014 Corolla, Rogue Koito LED projector.
Those are single emitter single optic design, and compact passive cooling.
It will not outperform HID system yet but instant ON and low power consumption is nice.
This was helpful to me. I probably wont be using an LED projector, although getting my paws on an MDX LED headlight would be like Christmas. I'll probably stay at 35w now that you mention it, it'll get me a longer warranty too haha. If I can find some TL projectors cheaply, I'll buy them on sight. Otherwise I'll still go OEM with these clear lenses I just got from TRS.

Currently I have two OEM HID projectors but they're both driver side assemblies so I'm looking for a passenger. The OEM swap would be a lot less complex than cutting up my housings for those other projectors and as my first retrofit, I don't think a lot of Dremel work will be good for me.

BTW,,, painting flat black, I personally prefer bit of gloss something like satin black with slight blue tint in. It loos really deep black and doesn't looks like BBQ grill kind flatness.
This is a good point. I was thinking some VHT engine enamel? I like the finish on it, and it's rated for like 6 billion degrees so I don't think heat will damage it haha.

For DRL, have you considered to use high beam as DRL using PWM dimmer? It's old fashioned design but in terms of safely and effectiveness, it's very good choice. High beam optic is designed to shoot beam far and light up= easier to be seen, which is prime purpose of DRL.
I did consider that. But I don't want to put an LED in my highs because it won't improve the output that much.

You can make negative control PWM with 555 and there is way to make system without running wire through fire wall. ( you can modify wiring at PJB)
What's PJB?

If you go with whatever LED design for DRL, you want to focus on beam angle with proper LED optics, not how many lumens each LED outputs.


Same idea for turn signal. It's important that you use proper optics if you use single high power emitter, or layout bunch of 50degree view angle emitters.

I made mine with single 10W emitter, output about 6W or so, need good size heatsink even it's half cycle turn signal use.
I didn't like bunch of LEDs on the board looks.
I'll be using a diffused acrylic lens or something similar to distribute light. The LEDs I'm looking at for DRL are 30* angled which seems to be pretty common in automotive application.


Side markers You don't need heatsink for this kind of output level. There are large selection of amber emitters.
Before I wrote this, I didn't know they were a sealed assembly. I'll be replacing the whole thing with speedline ones.


Third Brake lamp

I don't think you need to bother control with PWM, you can of course if you feel like.
I made mine from random eBay 9 LED kind third brake lamp, just pull out reflector and combined into OEM diffuser lens.
The only reason I wanted a PWM for it (maybe) would be to improve the life of the LEDs, decrease thermal output, and have some control over brightness. I could always implement one later though.

Emitters are swapped into SnapLED. No special design, just voltage regulation with resister. Surprisingly, many OEM simple LED circuit design is voltage regulation and not current regulation for smaller power component.

Use voltage regulator to create stable +12V and use resister control is popular method.
This is very helpful. I'll remember this and this will help my swaps immensely.

Brake This one will be hard to achieve desired result. I retrofitted other vehicle LED reflector to use its optic benefits, but other than that, either find OEM LED tail or make completely custom design which require CUT open tail light housing.
Tail light housing closed with ultra sonic welding. You need to cut open. Both housing ( ABS ) and lens ( PMMA) material is easier to crack, so be extra careful when cut open those. Closing is another challenge.. Lots of work you should expect.

You can always control with PWM, but depend on emitter choice, you can do simple voltage regulation by resisters too. Later on, it changed to PWM controled circuit. Mazda3 OEM LED tail use 9 Snap LED in main reflectors. It uses 30degree narrow beam emitter and reflector also shoot min required view angle, make output looks very intense.
Rated about 4.5W output for Brake operation.

Other than custom work, I don't think there are much of choice LED bulb that works well in our housing.
I'm thinking some Depo or decent aftermarket replacements to play with so that I don't have to worry about botching up expensive OEM housing.

Interior lighting Other than map and dome lamp, I wouldn't try using brighter light source. It can get too bright for night time to interfere comfortable driving.
For map lamp and dome lamp, there is some room for playing around, design and color. They are both -controlled, since LED will have much faster ON-OFF response time, it will look not smooth dimming effect, but it fade out like filament original set up.
I'm happy with the interior right now more or less. In fact, my map lights are way too bright for my taste. I might tint the lenses or just buy some new bulbs (they'll be cheaper too!)


One of other my favorite interior lighting work was to flip polarization of LCD screen. So black back ground with red letter displays.
It involves some risky work but result is nice.
I'm almost entirely aftermarket in audio. Pioneer FH-X700BT deck. It matches up with the rest of the dash lighting quite well and the polarization of the screen is flipped like you say.

Looking forward to seeing your work as it's progress!!
Thank you for sharing all that! I really appreciate the tips.
 
#7 ·
I too love custom lights. Check mine out! The Photos Below are taken with a low quality camera so it doesn't do them justice. Im running LED's All the way around. Morimoto HID's.
I also have interior LED's all around, and lighted footwells, LED Light bars below the glove box and driver seats as well. LED Side mirrors Side marker Parking lights with amber turn signals. Wish you luck with your build! I will be watching this thread closely.







 
#8 ·
I too love custom lights. Check mine out! The Photos Below are taken with a low quality camera so it doesn't do them justice. Im running LED's All the way around. Morimoto HID's.
I also have interior LED's all around, and lighted footwells, LED Light bars below the glove box and driver seats as well. LED Side mirrors Side marker Parking lights with amber turn signals. Wish you luck with your build! I will be watching this thread closely.
I've seen yours before! They look quite nice. Thanks for the good luck, I'll be needing it.
 
#10 ·
TL Bi-Xenon retrofit will involve some extra Dremel work.

Majority of TL front lens holding part need large trimming ( you need to make sure it keeps min structural strength)
and also need flange trimmed as much as you can.

If you use later model TL Bi-Xenon projector, solenoid shield also need to be trimmed.

Back of headlight housing need cut out and extension for TL projector to have min aiming range.

I used other junk headlight housing for extension material because there really isn't much glue or sealer that stick well to PP plastic, I melt material to fuse together ( PP heat putty method)

Didn't upload much of work progress pic, but there should be somewhere thread I posted TL retrofit work in this forum. I will post link if I find it.




If you gonna use clear lens swap for Mazda3 HID projector, I highly suggest you NOT to space lens at lens holder, and use no more than one washer spacer between reflector bowl and front structure. I wouldn't put any at all, but it will be all up to personal preference.



Always observe beam pattern at as long distance as possible. You will see the spacing affect on beam pattern in great distance. Don't get fooled by "color effect" you can see in near distance beam pattern. You are not driving against the wall.

Actual beam pattern, elbow point reaches to ground about 120-130' away from lamp preferably. That's the distance you want to evaluate with.





I mentioned DRL using high beam with stock halogen bulb set up.
No LED bulb will work as you know.

What I did was made PWM -control dimmer, converted factory +12V wire from PJB(Passenger Junction Box) into -control wire ( to avoid run wire through fire walls ) and route +12V wire from battery to power high beams.
I also have post detailed schematic and wiring configuration for this work.

If you want to try halogen high beam with PWM dimmer for DRL, let me know and I an guide you how to build circuit and set wiring.





30 degree view angle LED is pretty common for low power resin sealed bullet shape LEDs or superflux kind LEDs.
I will keep focused without harsh diffuser, very light diffuser or diffuse X axis only, you want to use lots of LEDs to accomplish desired output for DRL.

If you use mid to higher power LEDs, then I use focus reflector to collimate beam. You can make DRL with maybe as few as 4 LEDs. But also you want to select right kind of reflector that has not too wide on Y axis and wider X axis distribution.







I even am not using heatsink for third brake, it's just SnapLED I put onto PCB. Leg of SnapLED dissipate heat well enough for third brake use. Honestly, for third brake lamp set up, I am not even using voltage regulator.

I just have one bridge diode and rest is resister controlling voltage. Series-Parallel connection.
Even one LED dies, other LED in line won't shut off, but will share remaining current through remaining 8 LEDs.
If you layout 3 set of 3 series connection, if one of LED dies, that line all won't light up.

It's just for fail safe design.





DEPO's Mazda3 LED tail lamp also use SnapLED like OEM one. They are just as bright as OEM type and I very much think Mazda3 LED tail lamp has good design visually and functionally.
I customized mine because I like to DIY, but if you are looking for "functional" nice design LED lamp for tail and stop, I won't even bother making your own when you can obtain DEPO's product at reasonable price.

For turn signal, you can make LED bulb if you are handy. You can make decent LED bulb under $50/pair (material) and some DIY fun work.
I am gonna look to find this post as well. It's very handmade bulb but nothing is more satisfying
when you can make something functional and all one and only hand made product.
 
#12 ·
I see some COB LED on your instagram link. I guess that's the internal of X.DRL1.


It should be fine as long as you mount them straight to rear direction.
I remember Mazda3 reverse lamp bulb inserted with bit of angle.

Housing is ABS, easy to cut. I would use some kind of diffuser lens over bare LED to hide yellow phosphor color of LED and bare LED look through lens. (it has diffuser lens, so it may not be that visible just as it is even without diffuser on LED itself.

I suggest not to cut lens open on reverse lamp housing. I would just cut back of housing where it need to be just big enough to shove those X.DRL1 in.

It's not precision optics and not design to focus light much anyway, I think it is OK just through those X.DRL1.



You may want to consider making delay circuit ( like 0.5sec delay) to avoid LED light up momentary when go through R position ( if you have AT)



I havent touch reverse light yet,, maybe I should make something for myself too!






I found TL fit post. Not much pic but you should be able to see how much trimming needed.

http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=398834&highlight=tl+bi+xenon+retrofit

Performance is great thought. Lots of effort will be involved.






Here is rear turn signal bulb made

http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=378753&highlight=rear+turn+led+homedepot

Homedepot solution. Cheap but involve effort of course.
 
#13 ·
I believe the LED is a 10 watt Epistar if I remember correctly. It's safe to use as a DRL and the heatsink is built into the casing itself (I talked to Andrew). I think it would be pretty easy to mount it in there, and I wouldn't need to chop open the lens to get it.

No need for a delay circuit, I'm a manual type of guy.

That signal bulb looks really good for a DIY (way better than most PNP). I think you've sold me on that solution for rear turns. I think I'll look into a better heatsink too. Not that I'll be leaving them on for 30 mins, but just for some peace of mind.

Thank you for that TL post.! seriously helpful
 
#14 ·
One good news about signal bulb I made for rear turn is that,,, it didn't cause hyperflashing!

Somehow, it may have pulled just enough current not to trigger hyper flashing.


Slight noise can get in radio though as it is switching circuit. But won't be noticeable unless radio signal is extremely weak.

Although,, I linked you to TL bi-xenon fit, it really is lots of trimming all over, including aiming adjuster screw base on housing side. Def not recommended for if you are looking for simple work.

If you aren't too ambitious about TL bi-xenon, you can easily fit TSX, RL, those mid size HID projectors.

Here is TSX if you want easier retrofit with decent HID projector.

http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=291523&highlight=tsx+projector+retro&page=4
 
#16 ·
Moni D2S should fit as well and much easier than TL bi-xenon, as solenoid is internal mount.

And it also will perform better than stock HID projector what mazda3 have.
It has slight quality inconsistency but considering aftermarket product, they are good.
With your choice of OEM good brand D2S bulb to go with.


I am assuming you are using OEM HID housing? If so, don't bother use any other ballast system than original Mitsubishi ballast. They are very good system.

If you are using halogen housing, retrofit inside, then, you have choice of ballast. just make sure to figure out the way to seal back of projector opening ( Halogen doesn't have dust cap like HID housing, but rubber booths create seal with H7 bulb base adoptor)
 
#17 ·
I'm stock halogen right now and I don't have the financial freedom to cough up for OEM HID.

What inconsistencies are you talking about? I think I saw a picture somewhere of a difference in the 'squirrel finders'.

As far as ballasts go, I've been following TRS' development of their ballasts, and their new XB 35 watt ballast line looks really cool and performs very close to Densos and Mitsubishis. They should be coming out in just a few weeks.

Bulbs will probably start with XB35's as well, just to ensure that the system is working properly. If all goes well, I'll sell the XBs and put the money towards some OSRAM D2S CBIs or Nightbreakers.

I just now realized the dust cap problem. Do you have an OEM dust cap on hand? I might be able to get the part number from it and order one to try and cram onto my H7 assembly.

Also, just an FYI, the TRS clear lenses do not fit very well on our projectors. There's about a 1-2mm gap around the edge of the lens, and the spacers that you can order with it don't fit on the housing at all (they fall right through). I ordered a set last week and just now returned it. I hope they get that sorted out at some point, as a lot of people here use them on their assemblies for HID.
 
#20 ·
My only concern with extending the wiring past the ignitor is there's less resistance in the wire after the jump in current at the ignitor. I'm going to write TRS and ask for some dimensions of the ignitor. It looks pretty big in some shots, but I think I might be able to make it work. Good news is the MD2S is a pretty small projector so that ought to help. Also found some housing caps from TRS but I might just be able to use the stock H7 cap with the rubber one that comes with the ballast.
 
#21 ·
Make sure to put "clearance for AIMING" in consideration when you evaluate component size.

Due to projector mounting structure have 3 mounting screw receives as fulcrum point of aiming, back of projector ( + bulb, ignitor and its cable) swings mainly up and down needing bigger space than ignitor and cable can just fit in place.


Hope works go smooth. good luck!
 
#23 ·
Not a horrible job. Lot of measure twice cut once, double and triple check you have the right wire before you cut.
 
#27 ·
Today was a great day. Big ol box from TRS waiting for me when I got home.

In it were:

  • Morimoto Mini D2S 3.0 B-stock projectors (missing a bit of hardware, but otherwise awesome condition. Tiny scratch on one, and some melted plastic on the other. I wrote to TRS about the hardware, we'll see what they say)
  • Morimoto 3Five 4300k bulbs (XBs when these die on me. They look great for now though)
  • Morimoto XB55 D2S ballast (fires right up when I tested it. killer. Ignitors aren't nearly as big as they seem. Hope they'll fit.)
  • HD H7 relay harness
  • And some free high beam splitters. Not 9005 like my high beams, but I'll get em to work anyway.

Test fired the solenoids on the projectors about 70 times or so. Not a single catch. This whole b-stock thing isn't too bad if you're willing to put in a little footwork for some hardware!

Upashi, I think you were the one saying not to go 50 watt ballasts. Then I did some reading on HID Planet and found that some were having trouble firing the 35 watt ballasts in cold weather, but the 55 watts weren't having any problems. Winters here are always super unpredictable so I figured I'd be safe. Need reliability.

This is fun already. Test fire was great. Already exceeding my expectations. I like the 4300k output too even though I thought it would be much too warm. If I switch my temp when I get XBs, it'll only be to 5500k, not the 6000k that I had planned.

What a day what a day. Can't wait to open these bad boys up and start dremeling away lol.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Upashi, this is where I'll need some wiring help! Umnitzas came in the other day, and that was an awesome way to spend a couple hundred bucks. They are perfectly bright. The color is a beautiful 6k and they're solidly built with a wiring relay harness.

So heres the scenario:

Stalk set to off = fogs on/off through indy fog mod
Stalk set to parking lights = angel eyes on, corner markers on
Stalk set to on = angel eyes off, corner markers on.

Is that doable? I think I might have to go back to some relay basics.

I don't want to run the LEDs with the low beams so they don't go into thermal runaway. However, Umnitza does have a lifetime warranty on the rings so it really wouldn't be an issue. I might hardwire the trigger to the parking lights and put a kill switch somewhere in the cabin. I'm thinking on top of the glovebox? Close to the grommet going through the firewall.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Let me organize information you have provided first,

so Stalk set to OFF mean LOW beam is off?


Assuming so,

*Low beam OFF/ Parking Light OFF = only fog lamp can be ON/OFF through indy fog
*Parking Lights ON = marker(parking) light and Angel Eyes ON
*Low beam ON = Angel eyes OFF marker(parking) lights stays ON



This case, in other word, you want Angel eyes to work as primary parking(marker)lamp along stock amber parking lights.
But turn off when Lo Beam ON



To do this, you should be able achieve result by using SPDT relay.




You tap +V from TNS ( parking/marker lamp) - use normally closed pole 87a of SPDT reley.
Unless coil triggered, this pole continue to GND.

One low beam ON, coil of relay powered and pole switch to normally open 87 pole.
Which left open, so it won't continue to GND = Angel Eyes OFF when Low Beam is OFF.
 
#30 ·
Hmm things have changed now. One of the low-beam rings stopped working except for the 2 LEDs that join the circuit board. I wrote Umnitza and await a warranty claim.

Not only is it weird that they failed, but they failed except for those two? How does that even happen? It looks like all the LEDs are wired in parallel, so why would those two stay lit?

Anyway, today we test the true meaning of "lifetime warranty" in under 10 days!

Also I roughed out a wiring diagram for these (if I get them working). +V from door lights to 87a. +V from parking lamps (not turn) to 87. 30 leads to the trigger on the Umnitza harness, and +V from IGN line to 85 and 86 to ground.

Goal of that was to get the lights to dim on and off when the dome lights go out, but stay on when the car is running. I was planning on adding more so that they would turn off with the low beams, but I'll need them to be working first.
 
#31 ·
Combining some light fade in and fade out is but more complicated than you would think likely.

Your wire layout setting how you describe on above post won't work

Dome light +V is constant 12V and its ground the one control switching.
(it prob will be not smooth fade though, more like jagged pulse fade)

, if you trigger relay with IGN on, relay immediately switch to NO contact which you aim to continue parking light +V to feed angel eyes
Which mean you just adding relay power consumption to exactly same situation when you can connect straight to parking light

When IGN is off, angel eyes will be on all the time as NC pole is feeding angel eyes straight from constant +12V line


Let me think how it can be done.

So u want angel eyes work as welcome lamp when unlock , fade in
Then once in car shut door and wait certain length of time, or insert key in. Then it will fade out

Once you turn IGN on, you want it in till parking light comes on

Is that what u want??
 
#32 ·
Oh good point I didn't even think of that. I just was reading earlier this morning that it wouldn't work due to the dimming ground instead of +v.

Wonder if there is simply a way to have the rings dim consistently. Some way to implement PWM dimmer with the relay so that every time the parking lights turned on or off, the LEDs would fade in or out.
 
#33 ·
Currently thinking of adding a few relays for each individual ring and wiring the main relay trigger to the parking light. I think this would solve my heat worries. When the low beam is turned on, it triggers a relay for the LED ring, turning it off while the high beam ring stays on.

In this idea, I would use two DPST NC relays in between the driver and LED ring positive leads, and each relay would be triggered using a tap from the high and low beams. I have a sloppily drawn wiring diagram somewhere.

Downsides? I would have to add a ton of wiring extensions.

Also, I'll be wiring in a kill switch to my interior so I can turn them off on the highway or for extended periods of driving. The kill switch will be wired between the parking light tap and the main NO relay trigger.

Here's a video of me testing the Umnitzas. They rate high on the giggle-meter: http://youtu.be/TWSwdslg4PA
 
#34 ·
I thought you wanted angel eyes to be ON, OFF along room lamp and also with parking light ( OFF once low beams ON)

So you want fade IN/OUT along parking light + also isolation between low and high rings?

It's getting lots of work can research expected.

First off all, you need to know if Angel Eyes driver circuit takes PWM signal or not.

There are few way of making fade IN/OUT with rather simple circuit.
Are you familiar with PIC programming?
 
#36 ·
Man this got out of hand quick haha. Lets go back to the basics.

  • I need a kill switch
  • I want on when car is running (DRL)
  • I want them on with parking lights
  • I want them to be safe thermally. Running HIDs and LEDs so close to eachother is a no-no. To be honest, I don't even know if my idea of having the rings isolated is much better. I think I'll just kill them with the low beams.

Hehe sorry to keep changing all this up. So heres what I've got, based on what I just listed.

 
#35 ·
If your not using the led angel eyes you will need a box for each of the eyes. Because they come on two at a time, ( one box controls two eyes. Or you could try and extend the wires so both highs run to a box and both lows run to the other. and by box i mean the inverter for ccfl angel eyes. it comes with two in the kit.
 
#39 ·
I kinda having hard time understanding your diagram..


You just need to add one main switch that interrupt feed line for kill switch

Lo+ trigger relay to NO pole which stay float so whenever Lo beam comes on, ground interrupted and no circuit complete for angel eye driver

I thought about time delay but it may be ok just use ACC for feed, If you don't mind angel eyes comes on at ACC on position. It will turn off while cranking and come back once engine starts

Separately TNS+ can let you turn angel eyes when you have parking light ON. I thought it may be useful because many of those who install angel eyes may want to display/ show system on just by turn parking light switch on without key in.




In case of you want to try time delay, you can make it pretty cheap with 555 this is just a sample

Bit more stable than capacitor and transistor delay circuit




Either way, if you have main switch ON and had TNS on, it will flicker while cranking possibly
 
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