Has anyone done a stereo upgrade to a 2010 3 yet, bose or no bose? If so, how did you remove the doors and get the head unit out. Did you replace your headunit or simply upgrade the speakers / add a sub / amp the speakers in your system? Was the LCD screen still functional for the climate control, etc?
Looking for any information on this as there seems to be little to none yet.
[quote author=gethuge link=topic=145935.msg3475906#msg3475906 date=1262181785]
The colour codes are still the same even for a 2010? What does LOC mean? Sorry newbie here
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I'll double check mine today when I go to put the HU back in. AFAIK the wiring harness hasn't changed in the 2010.
I just checked and the wire colors differ on the 2010, though the position hasn't changed.
Just get this loc and make it easy on yourself. Plug and play.
Installed my sub and amp this weekend...it was hell trying to get the 4g power wire to the battery...but other then that its done and sounds awesome....if anyone is wondering where you tap into for the remote wire on non-bose system, i used '1R' and it works. Thanks for the help guys.
I will probably get Pioneer AVIC-Z110BT install soon on my mazda 3 2010 GT. Does anyone know if its possible to use the OEM MIC and connect that to the HU or is the MIC on the HU better? Will I be able to use my BT wheel controls with that wheel controls module? What will happen to my red display? Any other tips is greatly appreciated.
Sorry to bring back an old thread but how much pressure do you need to apply to the vents to get them to come out? Where the back vents meet the fabric/microphone area seems pretty solid. I really can't push down much without the fabric part coming with it.
Anyone know, that if I put in an LOC with my Bose and replace all speakers, will I still keep all my wheel functions and bluetooth? I've never dealt with Bose,LOCs, and bluetooth before.
a LOC is used to convert the speaker outputs to a line-level signal (for connection to an amplifier). tapping into the speaker output should have no affect on all the other functions.
according to many, the bose HU is already outputting a line-level signal (at least in previous models), so you may not need a LOC and if you use one, make sure it's designed to be used with the bose system. i am using a loc/interface just because it's simple and doesn't require me to cut into the stock wiring.
Saweet! There's hope! What about the center speaker that listens to your voice for BT, if you replace it, will it still work? I don't think it's a special speaker, but I wanna make sure.
BUMP. I am interested in hearing more about the center channel speaker in the front. and where can I find the Bose wiring diagram? I haven't run across one yet.
I was wondering if anyone figuered out how to not lose top screen of the car ,like tiem and temp ??
or its not lost if you put in a new radio ,
and seconde of all howor what would one need to keep the steering controlers working?
i heard you keep most of the display functions in the 2010 models and only lose the radio display (obviously).
you can retain the steering controls with an adapter like a PAC SWI, if your new radio is compatible. http://pac-audio.com/swixprogramming/swixprogramming.asp
Well i got the pac installed in (only 3 wires )
but cant seem to programme the damn thing, it doesnt see the output of steering wheel commands it seems anyone ran into this??
Can anybody comment if this is also the right connector for a 2006 mazda 3? I'm guessing since this is a Honda/Acura part, it's a standard antenna connector that probably hasn't changed, but it's odd that even a Google search doesn't reveal a clear answer to this...
i installed my amp and sub today thanks to the help from this page and others on the forum. 1R is indeed the correct remote line for the amp, with the top right four wires needing to be connected to the LOC. i got a cheap LOC from advance auto due to lack of funds, plug and play with a little solder and your diagrams in this thread. i had absolutely no problems whatsoever. my car is non-bose so it was a little confusing but it all worked out with some thought. everything still displays fine, time temp etc. i have the stock hu installed so if that was a worry for anyone attempting to do this project hopefully i cleansed your mind hardest part of it all was stuffing the wires under the carpet. not a hard do it yourself job. thanks guys
UPDATE -- completed the install in my 2006 Mazda 3 that had the non-Bose, 6-CD changer system (put in my Pioneer DEH-6900UB deck). No antenna adapter was needed, the connector was the same as the standard aftermarket connector. Not sure why others needed the adapter discussed above in their cars, maybe they had the Bose system?
So ladies and gentlemen I have some new announcements I know it has been a long time since this thread has come alive. In the process of having this unit I decided to switch units. Now i Have a new unit which is allowing me to do some extra options and toys included.
I now have the capabilities to use the BT and voice control buttons on the steering wheel with my new unit
I have installed a satelite tuner and was able to use the oem antenna. It was a matter of switching the antenna connectors which was a simple tab.
If anyone would like any help on the matter just post up
[quote author=my_mazda3 link=topic=145935.msg3279961#msg3279961 date=1250293597]
Well ladies and gentlemen boys and girls here it all is after the waiting period
step one : the goodbeyes
get in your car and kiss the old stereo goodbeye
Step 2: removing upper vernts
Firmly put pressure at back of vents were they meet the dash
The bottom of the vents should come up slightly so you can put something in between the radio and the vents. Please remember try to use something soft otherwise you will gauge the material. I used a trim panel puller made out of plastic
shows you all of the plastic clips in the upper vents.
Step 3 Removing and unbolting the radio
Once the dash vents are removed you will find 2 screws holding in the radio. remove those
The radio is now free pull it out towards you and tilt is so the radio faceplate faces the windshield
Unclip the 3 connectors and remove the radio
There will be more to come have to take some more snapshots and will keep you posted
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Hi Sir,
Do you have any ideas where is the input pins for AUX function, I currently got an 2010 Mazda 3 audio set on hand and have intended to rebuild it as a home audio set for using, so far, I already connect the wiring for most of it functions (including FM, AM and CD) except the AUX function. your kind assistance in this regard will be highly appreciated. Thanks!
Hi peter,
If i understand you correctly you want to use the headunit as a home stereo hook up and you want to remove the aux function from the car for indoor use? is that what you are trying to get at? Or are you referring to the wiring pinouts for the aux from the radio itself? If it is the wiring pinouts you are referring to i will have to find my wiring diagrams again and then I will be able to help you
thanks
Dan
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