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shocking brake repair estimate!

44K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  icspots 
#1 ·
Hi, my mechanic just gave me an estimate on my Mazda 3 for a brake repair job. He recommends pads and rotors replaced, front and back: $800.00; if I change the calipers all around, $1700.00. Is this a resonable price? I don't see the need to change the caliper just in case they might seize up down the road. I really find this to be an over the top quote; opinions?
 
#3 ·
Find another mechanic. How many miles do you have on your car? If it is time to have some brake work done, what kind of driving do you do? A top of the line set of performance rotors, pads, lines and fluid should be around 700 bucks just for parts. Even for an everyday street performance package you're lookin at around 400 bucks meaning standard parts should cost you way less than that quote you were given. Having your rotors, pads, and fluid changed should take about 3 hours of labor, factor that in with your local shop rates.


EDIT - it looks like justin beat me to it
 
#4 ·
[quote author=justint5387 link=topic=159497.msg3387195#msg3387195 date=1256586576]
Wow, what a rip off. There should be no need to change the calipers. Brake pads and rotors should cost no more than $400 all around if you are just replacing with OEM replacements.
[/quote]My friends mechanic gave me a quote just now: pads and rotors: ceramic $550., metal $450. tax and labor incl. this seems much better, don't you think?
 
#6 ·
[quote author=blaster1985 link=topic=159497.msg3387187#msg3387187 date=1256586345]
Hi, my mechanic just gave me an estimate on my Mazda 3 for a brake repair job. He recommends pads and rotors replaced, front and back: $800.00; if I change the calipers all around, $1700.00. Is this a resonable price? I don't see the need to change the caliper just in case they might seize up down the road. I really find this to be an over the top quote; opinions?
[/quote]

tell him GO FUCK YOURSELF and just walk out..


[quote author=icspots link=topic=159497.msg3387326#msg3387326 date=1256592061]
Do you have some basic tool? Changing out the pads/ rotors is really easy and won't even require bleeding the brakes.
[/quote]

i do agree, its a much better option to learn how to do it urself :)
 
#7 ·
OP, what's the reason for the brake replacement anyway? Are you getting squealing or grinding? Vibration when braking? decreased performance? It's possible that whatever is wrong isn't necessarily wrong with all of the brakes. I replaced my rear pads/rotors as they were down all the way to the backing plate, however with 65k on the clock my fronts are still fine. It's possible that the mechanic is just inflating the cost for his benefit..... Actually I can garauntee it since he wants you to replace the calipers "just in case" on a car that physically can't be older than six years.
 
#8 ·
rotors shouldn't need changing. just get them turned if they are worn... otherwise just change the pads.
 
#10 ·
yeah but the rotors are still fine... ive been through a set of pads already and had no scoring on the rears. im pretty sure the rears dust a lot because they aren't releasing all the way. i get a squeek at low speed, but if i touch the ebrake handle and move it like 2 clicks it stops... also everyone knows the rear pistons are a pain to compress

but yeah i dont see why you would need new rotors unless you've been through several sets of pads or you are tracking the car...
 
#12 ·
[quote author=Verto link=topic=159497.msg3387602#msg3387602 date=1256603251]
rotors shouldn't need changing. just get them turned if they are worn... otherwise just change the pads.
[/quote]

they shouldn't need to be changed unless they're worn enough to not have enough surface to turn.
[quote author=Verto link=topic=159497.msg3388087#msg3388087 date=1256621325]
yeah but the rotors are still fine... ive been through a set of pads already and had no scoring on the rears. im pretty sure the rears dust a lot because they aren't releasing all the way. i get a squeek at low speed, but if i touch the ebrake handle and move it like 2 clicks it stops... also everyone knows the rear pistons are a pain to compress

but yeah i dont see why you would need new rotors unless you've been through several sets of pads or you are tracking the car...
[/quote]

the rears dust up a lot because they are a soft organic compound unlike the fronts, therefore they wear faster. Not that they don't make organic pads that don't dust as much, Mazda just doesn't use them.

Also the rear piston is perfectly easy to compress if you're using the tool designed to compress it vs trying to bully it with a pair of pliers.

As for your assertion that they squeal because they don't fully release and fixing the problem by pulling the ebrake...... That would just make hrm be on more, and how would being on more correct not releasing? More likely you're getting a small amount of movement between the pad and the shim on the back of the pad, and the ebrake puts just enough pressure to stop that. Did you apply anti-squeal grease to the back of the pad when you installed them.
 
#13 ·
The original mechanic told me that the brakes were worn to 80% in the front and 85% in the back(or vice versa); why would the rotors have to be replaced; can't they just be resurfaced. I'm not having an difficulty braking, no noise or vibration, nothing. I believe I have found a reliable person to have a look at them. I am just so insulted by the first estimate; I will never go back there, not even for gas!
 
#14 ·
[quote author=blaster1985 link=topic=159497.msg3389370#msg3389370 date=1256687850]
The original mechanic told me that the brakes were worn to 80% in the front and 85% in the back(or vice versa); why would the rotors have to be replaced; can't they just be resurfaced. I'm not having an difficulty braking, no noise or vibration, nothing. I believe I have found a reliable person to have a look at them. I am just so insulted by the first estimate; I will never go back there, not even for gas!
[/quote]

it just seems unlikely due to the differing pad composition that both the fronts and the rears have nearly the same amount of wear. If you have the time and the tools I'd take a look at thmlem yourself. For resurfacing the rotors you may be able to. I say that because depending on how worn the rotor is there might not be enough metal to shave the face of the disc. Also replacing the rotors may not be that much more expensive than machining them.

I still recommend doing the job yourself. If you've never done the brakes before then this is the best time to learn. There are several walkthroughs on the forum to help you out too. Tool-wise you'd need:
-Jack/stands
-lug wrench
-flathead/pliers
-7mm Allen socket
-socket wrench
-breaker bar
-c-clamp (for the fronts)
-caliper compression tool (for the rears, but can be used on the fronts as well and can usually be rented)

.... I think that's about it. There are probably even forum members in your area who could help you out and help you save several hundred dollars.
 
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