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Kenlilley04's STF Build Thread

18K views 85 replies 11 participants last post by  miata_racer 
#1 ·
Hello everyone, I've decided in the last month or so to start auto crossing my 04 mazda 3s. car just hit 140,000 miles and is my current daily driver here in Titusville Florida (Orlando area). I'm mainly looking for some advice on a few topics I've been researching, mainly weight saving (looking at some aftermarket seats) and rim sizes, i would like to get a new set of 17x7.5 sparcos (cheap and somewhat lightweight) but i know everyone basically runs the 15 inch rotas.

Car currently set up with Megan racing Coil-overs, with 450lbs rear springs and 350 lbs front springs, also have BC racing adjusters in the rear. JBR rear sway bar with Moog end-links, just recently installed a vibrant header and a Corksport cat-back with high-flow cat. (really love the sound and noticeable power gain). Also have Moog front end-links and new Mevotech ball joints are on the way. TWM Short Throw Shifter and solid shifter bushings with a Big type R shift knob.

I will be getting a CAI soon but for right now rims and tires are the priority, as well as some better rotors and some EBC Yellow pads all the way around.

Please feel free to comment with any and all suggestions, i used to race asphalt superlate models so ive been around racing my entire life, i also ran my dads 98 corvette this year in CAM-S so im no stranger to the racing community, sadly he wont let me prep the corvette lol
 

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#4 ·
Please for the love of christ don't use a cheap motorcycle battery...IT WILL cost you many tenths at the national championships by intermittently disabling ABS and power steering.

Ask me how I know...yay 3rd place in 2014 :(

Might I suggest trying to save up to replace your coilovers with something more suited to autocross and able to handle about double the rates you're on now :)


As for wheels...I may have a set I'd be willing to part with in the size you want...lighter too ;)
 
#8 · (Edited)
The car was way to low when those pictures were taken, it has since been raised up about an inch all around.

I'm working on getting some BC Racing ER type coil overs. But that might be a while.
JBR rear sway is in along with new end links (bushing are very loud, any advice on how to quiet them up? They have plenty of grease)

Still looking for wheels but I've decided on the tires (RE71's) just need to decide on the size I want.

New clutch is on the way, as well as the ball joints. I need more time before the next season starts lol there's still way to much to do
 
#11 ·
RSB Noise?

JBR rear sway is in along with new end links (bushing are very loud, any advice on how to quiet them up? They have plenty of grease)
Not understanding why there is any noise from your rear sway bar. At all.

I've first had the Corksport and now the Hotchkiss 32mm rear sway bars, and not a peep....... You did replace the stock rear sway bar links with the Mazdaspeed sized ones, right? They are different sizes.

If the main mounting bushings are the right size (gotta be, came with, right?), and the endlinks are the right size, sway bars make no noise. Should the endlink nuts loosen a little they will make some clunking over bumps, I do have to check and re-tighten about once a month on my daily driver/autocross MZ3.
 
#13 ·
Sorry about going MIA, I forgot my password and was too damn lazy to reset it.

I just went one layer, in the area where the bushing will mount. I then greased it and put the bushing on. I learned about this trick from MotoIQ; they do it for all of their swaybar installs.

I also installed the heim jointed endlinks which have the proper sized through bolt to fill the hole in the sway bar. It turns out that the Moog endlinks worked their way loose because of the smaller stud and a used-up lock washer (though me thrashing it on a rallycross course had nothing to do with it. /s)
 
#12 ·
I have the upgraded bushings from JBR, it's not a clunk, I've never had a problem with that. It's a squeaking noise over every bump, if the Teflon tape solves the problem I'm not worried about it. It's just annoying to hear while daily driving.

Clutch is here, as well as a new flywheel (didn't want to deal with possible resurfacing) this will be installed sometime in the next 2 weeks, just bad timing with Christmas. Also have new ball joints ready to be installed as well as adjustable front end links (cork sport, also Christmas present from my girlfriend) as well as a new wheel bearing assembly for the left front as its making some noise. I won't be running my local events in January but February I will make the debut, look for me at the pro solo event in Georgia in March. Hopefully I will have wheels and tires by then!
 
#14 ·
Got some work done in the last few weeks and decided to upgrade the thread.

Re did my rear seat bar install and wrapped it with Teflon tape re greased and torqued everything down again, problem solved for that one. Also put in the corksport adjustable end links, WOW that made a huge difference in turn in down some back roads!

Just got the car back from the shop for the new clutch and flywheel. I couldn't find a specific rule for STF as what we could do in the tranny. Ended up with the exedy stage 1 clutch and lightweight flywheel. It feels way better than my 140,000 mile clutch lol.

Rims and tires are going to be ordered in a few weeks, I'm sticking with 17's when I get a newer car down the road I'm hoping these will look good and fit nicely. RE 71'rs are the tire I'm going with. Also new ball joints going on in the next few weeks, as well as a left front hub assembly since it's making some noise. Should have all that done by the tour date in Moultrie GA in March!
 
#15 ·
Clutches in STF

Got some work done in the last few weeks and decided to upgrade the thread.
Just got the car back from the shop for the new clutch and flywheel. I couldn't find a specific rule for STF as what we could do in the tranny. Ended up with the exedy stage 1 clutch and lightweight flywheel. It feels way better than my 140,000 mile clutch lol.
Sorry to say, when you enter that Tour, real sure you'll have to enter as FSP; F Street Prepared.

For future reference, if SCCA doesn't specifically say you CAN do something, then you CAN'T.

Street Rules (for clutches) apply to Street Touring cars:

Alternate components which are normally expendable and considered
replacement parts (e.g., engine and wheel bearings, seals, gaskets, filters,
belts, bolts, bulbs, batteries, brake rotors, clutch discs, pressure plates,
suspension bushings, drivetrain mounts, fenders, trim pieces, fuel filler
caps, etc.) may be used provided they are essentially identical to the standard
parts (e.g., have the same type, size, hardness, weight, material, etc.),
are used in the same location, and provide no performance benefit.
The good news is that in FSP there is a BUNCH more that can be done.:wink2:
 
#16 · (Edited)
#17 · (Edited)
Now if we all were running NASA-X (NASA Autocross) you might actually be able to stay in the same Class. Each mod carries a set "cost" in points, and only once you exceed your set point limit for your Class would you move up. There is driver choice and flexibility in what can be done to your car. SCCA OTOH is very strict and limited on change options.

In *my* world I would attend a NASA-X event over an SCCA one.
 
#20 ·
I kind of agree, but there is another side of me that likes the "challenge" of engineering around the strict SCCA rules while increasing the performance of the vehicle.

Who will be at the tour event? Do they care if I enter in STF? I'm not going to try to win, this is the closest tour event to me and would be fun to run. Considering I only have 1 other STF car in my region I would like some other people to run against. Would you guys protest me?
Here's the thing with protests, in my experience nobody seems to care what you're doing to the car if you are at or near the back of the pack. People don't put the last place car under a microscope, they put the front runners and first place car under a microscope. The people who are in front of you in the results probably won't care one way or another what you've done to the car. It's the people behind you in the results you need to worry about. So if you start to have some success and beat some people, and they find out you have illegal parts, you very well might get protested.
 
#18 ·
Who will be at the tour event? Do they care if I enter in STF? I'm not going to try to win, this is the closest tour event to me and would be fun to run. Considering I only have 1 other STF car in my region I would like some other people to run against. Would you guys protest me?
 
#21 ·
Tour Protests and RSB squeaking

Regarding these two questions....

Rear sway bar squeaking - the Hotchkis bar comes with grease fittings, thus adequately lubricated. All the Teflon tape does is essentially lube the connection. If kept lubed somehow, no squeaking should occur. Nor should any other noises of any kind.:smile2:


Protests at Tours - Depends on a few things. Most importantly how well you do. If you beat other legal STF guys, how would that make you feel? If you finish dead last, likely most would not care.

Since your mods are non-visual, they likely would never be known. However, by entering STF you are declaring to all that your car is legal.

Why not just run your correct Class? Have fun there. Unless you pull those items you will never be STF legal.

My two cents.
 
#22 ·
I think this thread really shows the importance of knowing how the rules work, asking questions, and triple checking the rule book before any part touches the car. Soooo critical.

Tough spot for the OP now, either be uncompetitive in FSP, spend substantial money backing up to make the car STF legal, "hope" for DFL at every event as to not get protested, or do well and wait for the protest hammer to come.
 
#23 ·
I've emailed my region and they told me that it would be fine to still run locally here in STF, however given the strictness of rules at the national events he wouldn't advise it. Since this is the only national type event that I will be attending I will still enter in STF, I'm not concerned about being dead last I just want competition other than 1 other person lol.

And for the record I know the rules, I may not agree with them but I do know them. If a stock clutch is rated to 20% more TQ and HP than stock. With bolt on's and a good OVT tune, that would be pushing the limit as to what our parts could handle and still last. This was my reasoning for the stage 1 clutch. And this pressure plate is still only rated 241 at the flywheel, about 190 at the wheels. Not a huge improvement but enough to make a difference I agree.

I'm not making these mods to be nationally competitive, but rather to have a fun, better handling ride, with parts that will last being that this is my daily driver.

In other news I ordered 17x7.5 RPF1's, should be here by Friday. I'm going to get the RS3 version 2 for tires since they will last a lot longer than the re71's if I decide to daily them for a while. Not to mention almost 100$ cheaper
 
#25 ·
Yeah I'll be at Dixie although they changed the dates for the 18th which works out great cause that's the very beginning of spring break for me lol, I might go up to the tail of the dragon after Sunday. Stay in Atlanta with my family and spend another day at the tail and then drive home
 
#27 ·
My cousins live about 45 minutes outside Atlanta so I'll stay a night there and hit the dragon on Monday, maybe spend the night in Knoxville, dragon again on Tuesday and head home. I'm looking forward to this whole trip, going to be lots of fun. Looking forward to meeting you as well
 
#29 ·
You main competition should first be the clock. You want to progressively improve your times. Walking the course as many times as you can, and entering as many classes as you can, even if you are not competitive, will give you the most seat time.

Sounds like fun, and I use to do SCCA Autocross back in the day. Made me a better road course racer too.
 
#31 ·
So I went and changed my bad driver side wheel bearing assembly. However the noise I was hearing didn't totally go away.
Driver side has new bearing, new CV axle, new end links, new ball joints, good coilovers.

Could it be the CV axel? I've never actually had to diagnose one before. Only happens when turning right, or going over bumps.
In the video you can hear clicking when I'm just getting out of the driveway.

http://youtu.be/Svrl1P4Vevs
 
#32 · (Edited)
Drive axle knock would usually happen when accelerating from a stop on either left of right turns. Raise the car and move the axle in and out by hand. Could be a bad new axle assembly?

I sounds more like you have something rubbing on the tire, than a knocking sound.
 
#33 ·
Having listened to this about 100 times I'm convinced it's the CV axle. That clicking is a definitive sign that it's not right. Having the vibrant header and corksport exhaust doesn't help when trying to listen to this while in the car hence the go pro video.

Nothing is rubbing the tire, I've triple checked that, and replaced practically everything on the front suspension. Having replaced the cv axle about 4-5 months ago I wouldn't have suspected it.
I'll pull it and have it replaced under the warranty that came with it. Basically free other than the hour it take me to change it. I've gotten good at this whole removing front suspension thing.
 
#34 ·
Waiting to go to the parts store to see if I can get a new axle on warranty since I can't find the receipt. Tires are getting ordered Wednesday. Going with the 215 45 17 RE71's for sure (I've flip flopped about 20 times on this decision).
Also ordered some KWv3 coilovers, I will eventually switch from their progressive springs to a normal 2.5 inch spring in the rear. I got these for a steal so I couldn't pass them up.
First even for this year will be March 6th, could've been in February but the Central Florida region decided to schedule an event on Valentine's Day, girlfriend wasn't all to happy about that lol.

Also someone buy my Megan racing coilovers
 
#36 ·
Tires are mounted and on, don't need spacers as I have about 3-5mm of clearance between the rim and shock body.
KW v3 have been lost in shipping somewhere. FedEx is trying to find them but so far no luck, I was hoping to install them this week so I can get a feel for them, that's obviously not going to happen.
Anybody have any reviews for the Buddyclub super low seat brackets? They still have a double locking slider so I'm hoping they sit lower than the wedge brackets!
 
#38 ·
Well after not hearing anything from fedex I received a wonderful box all the way from Germany! Got to install these yesterday that was a complete pain in the ass. Whoever I bought my car from beat the hell out of the top of the strut enough to make it impossible to stop the shaft from turning while trying to get the top hat off. Allen head was stripped out, vise grip wouldn't hold the shaft good enough, and the hardened chisel I had was making progress going through the nut I just gave up and bought a new top hat.
That being said the coilovers ride great and I actually really like the progressive springs in the rear. I'll see how I like the spring rates even though I know they are way to soft for the front.
I'm going to set the toe at the house using my longacre toe plates I have, as well as corner balance with the race scales. I'm going to try to slot the upper strut mount holes to get some camber, hopefully more than a degree, then I'll take it to get the alignment checked to see where it's at. If I can get close to 2 degrees of camber, toe set how I want it and as much caster as possible I should be pretty much set.
 
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