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5K views 11 replies 6 participants last post by  rdtk 
#1 ·
Hey guys,

I've got a few, so bear with me.

1. EGR Delete.

I've need reading all across the Internet and the general consensus is to delete it.
One guy says turn on the car to close the valve and then unplug it. But if it's dirty, then I think that's stupid because it's still going to leak slowly and be corroded with carbon and stuck open.
The other is a cap and plate.
The other is a full delete with a plate and hose.

What is best? I'm bogging a little on start up as is, and need to do something about it before winter. Takes a couple turns to turn over.

If plates/kit, which is best?

2. Catch Can

It seems like this is necessary.
Which is best? Functionally efficient while "bang for my buck."

3. Short Throw Shifter

Which is best?

--

Last "overall" question is what order would you upgrade and mod things?

- I think I'm going to pick up a CoBB AP at tax return time.
I've probably got another $500~ sized purchase I can get away with, but I'm not sure what to dig into.
- I'm also going to do a Resonator Delete, which I hear kills the need for wasting money on a catback? (Confirm?)
- Lastly, I already installed a silicone Inlet Turbo pipe and CoBB RMM.
 
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#3 ·
1. EGR Delete... big issue here is that it will post a CEL. If you have an accessport then no problem, but for people like me that couldn't be bothered to drop $400 on that, meh. Once you have one, sure go ahead and do this.
2. Catch can - yeah I feel as though I should have installed this when I bought my car, but I never did. I'm not sure if it is a case of better late than never or not... once again, this is up to you.
3. Short throw - probably subjective but most people go with TWM. There are obviously other options, and it all comes down to what you like, and what the price point is.

~6. Resonator delete... I hear good things about it, almost did it myself. Go for it, and let us know what you think!
~7. I feel as though the TIP is a waste of money, but oh well. Hopefully you like it...
 
#5 ·
I installed catch can 2 months ago. Not sure I did it right since it is at engine height and not like the corksport catch can location.

There is a bolt that you can use for mounting point if you can get a nut to fit. I was lucky that when I asked for a random bolt/nut from part guy at my dealer and he happen to give me the nut I needed months before I looked at installing.



 
#7 ·
I cant say I agree, but I am not going to say you are wrong. I have not noticed any oil level on my catch can and it has been driven over 10,000+ KM's since install. There is some compelling evidence on this form showing how much oil can be pulled out in a month. Either way my Can only cost $30 from amazon and spent another $15 at local hardware store for rest of materials. And it looks cool lol, or maybe thats just me.
 
#9 ·
Off subject:

@rdtk - Your signature, is that a black car with plastidip green, or is that a green car with a matte black stripe?
What exactly do you have there and how did you go about it?
The car is silver. I did the roof and hood 1 summer (2014) and then the green the summer after that (2015) and this summer, I am fixing any damage from winter with rattle can and then have a gallon of green to put one more thick coat down.

How I did it? by watching every video I could on youtube, mostly from dipyourcar.com. Covered the car that I didnt want to get black on but left around 1 cm away from line on hood and then used electrical tape right on the edge/line. I put down 1 coat, and immediatly pulled the electric tape away. Waited for it to dry (which is fast if the sun is out and over 25 degrees with no clouds) and then went for another coat.

Then once I did the green, same rule applied, cover want I dont want green on and used electric tape to pull off right after coat while the dip was wet.

There is a youtube video by dipyourcar.com for 2 tone rims which uses this method.

I tried doing this on the side mirrors but the tape kept failing on me and I decided to do all black.

One thing that I screwed up on is that I did light coats for most of the green, trying to avoid runs. This left a non smooth matte finish and is a b*tch to clean. Still not sure if I can recover from it with a last thick coat.

Hope this is enough info. I could go on further about every corner of the car but this is not the dipyourcar.com forum or a plasti dip thread.
 
#11 ·
@rdtk if you're wondering why you're not showing any oil in your OCC, it's because... you shouldn't have ANY oil flowing out of the valve cover.

The OCC should be connected to the PCV below the intake manifold. On your car (these non DI cars), an OCC won't help you all that much / it isn't a big deal. For DI cars, yes.. they'll want to have an OCC, it will help keep the valves clean[er] than they normally would be since they have no fuel being injected into the ports to clean off the valves. Whereas, we, non DI engines, do.

Which is why you aren't seeing any oil present itself, because... it shouldn't be, the way you have it placed, and connected.

You have yours more-so set up for a vent, which... that line from the valve cover to the intake does exactly that job and does it plenty well for the stock engine.
Honestly, you might as well remove what you did, as it's not doing you any good.


Now, to go on subject. I'm going to move this thread because it is absolutely in the wrong place for OP's car.

1. EGR delete? Do it, your CobbAP will keep the CEL out of visibility, just be aware it is still there, if you have emissions... I think. Don't take my word for it, as far as I was ever aware though, the Cobb would only "hide" CELs, but I could be mistaken. But, EGR delete for the speeds is indeed very common.

2. OCC... if you do it, do it right. Mishimoto or Damond Motorsports kit (personally I would go for the Damond since it's got everything you need in the kit), and is for your car in particular, and no messing about is required as it shows you where to put it, gives you what you need, so no having to stop at a hardware store in the middle of the job.

3. TWM, hands down.
 
#12 ·
also fyi. u can't do rust proofing. oils destroy dip. primary reason for redo because everywhere oil stray has leaked out has either stripped the plasti dip off or died to brown and made it 5 times less strong.

this is somehong that was never menchoned anywhere during my research. if you have done rust proofing on your car. I recommend you wait atleast 1 full year before dipping your car to ensure the oils are completely gone.
 
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