Driver side front lower control arm replacement problems - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum
 
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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Driver side front lower control arm replacement problems

So I have a rattling noise in my 3 when going over small bumps. Replaced driver side front strut bearing, inner and outer tie rods, and sway bar end links. None of those seemed to do anything for the noises. Ordered lower control arm and tried putting it on today, except there was some issues that I encountered. I have a 2.0L A/T and right off the bat the bolt holding the ball joint in would not budge. I hit it with PB blaster, undid nut, more PB blaster, tried loosening bolt but just spins, hit it with 3 lb hammer but it doesn't move. So I skip that and go to front bushing bolt. While loosening it I notice I don't have enough clearance to remove bolt without taking out transmission drain pan. Great, a whole other job I have to do completely unrelated to suspension, not to mention I had already dropped the pan and flushed the fluid about 6 months ago. Is there something I'm missing or is this just the dumbest design of lower control arm bushing and bolt/transmission pan placement ever?

2010 Mazda3 Sedan Black Mica
2.0L MZR Auto
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 12-01-2016, 10:58 AM
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I believe you can raise the engine/tranny with a jack just enough to create enough clearance to remove that bolt.

2006 Mazda 3s GT sedan whitewater pearl | 5-speed
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 12-03-2016, 01:49 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I guess I should've gone that route. Oh, well the tranny got a nice drain and fill. Also noticed that my transmission pan has a big dent in it. Gonna have to replace that someday. Also wondering the thread size and pitch of drain plug. I wanna put a magnetic one in. New lower control arm didn't solve it, new Koni STR.T struts did.

Driverside

Passenger side

2010 Mazda3 Sedan Black Mica
2.0L MZR Auto
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