Stuck parking brake (?) after rear rotor replacement - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-05-2014, 12:18 AM Thread Starter
Short Track Racer
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: East of Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 133
Stuck parking brake (?) after rear rotor replacement

My old rotors warped (Wagners! I thought they'd do better) and the surfaces had rusted over a few years, so I replaced them with new Wagners from Amazon. I got the tool to compress the rear pistons from Autozone, but only did about 2 turns, since the new disks aren't much thicker than the old ones, and I was re-using the old brake pads. The calipers slid right on without much effort, so I'm sure they were in far enough.
However, after putting everything away, I started the car, slowly depressed the brake pedal and slowly released several times, then operated the emergency brake. I took off, thought something was dragging, so I let the car roll to a stop, it seemed OK. So, I drove off. The next stop, I roll to a stop, and now it does feel like something is dragging. I pull over, the brakes are hot. I drive back home at 30 MPH for 1 mile. Hope I didn't warp the new rotors.
It seems there is a lot of slack in the handbrake now, so I think that is what is dragging. Trouble is, before this, I had used the hand brake recently and there was no problem. So, it seems it might be something with the work I did... Should I have retracted the pistons all the way, in spite of re-using the same pads? Or, does it seem like something with the brake cable (the slack wasn't there before I did the brake job).
What can I look for?

D*eno
Factory HID, ABS, sunroof. K&N filter, Conti Extreme DWS tires, grounded TB. JL Audio C2 650 comps and J2 320.4 amp
enobiko is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-05-2014, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
Short Track Racer
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: East of Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 133
Today, I removed the right caliper after pulling on the emergency cable connection to relieve the pressure, then I used the tool to compress the cylinder all the way. I reassembled, started the engine and pumped the brake slowly, then operated the parking brake. I did the same for the left side, but it appears that the emergency brake is still sticking. On the left side, I was able to move the cable/lever by pushing on the spring. I then gave a test drive, and the right side is dragging (where I didn't assist the spring on the caliper to release the ebrake). I didn't go very far or fast, but I could tell the brake was warm vs. the other side of the car.
It now seems... the brake cable is somehow hung up where it was not before? Granted, this is NE Ohio so some rust is inevitable, but the parking brake was working before I worked on the brakes! Is there some part of the cable I need to lubricate, and if so, using what as a lubricant? PBlaster to loosen things up? Or is the caliper lever that the cable is connected to not pivoting properly? I'm at a loss... This is embarrassing!

D*eno
Factory HID, ABS, sunroof. K&N filter, Conti Extreme DWS tires, grounded TB. JL Audio C2 650 comps and J2 320.4 amp
enobiko is offline  
post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-05-2014, 11:04 PM
Administrator
 
XCNuse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 14,006
Very very strange... have you tried pulling up and releasing it without moving the car ~10 times?

There's some weird adjustment in it that every few people say it "resets" after like 6 pulls; I don't honestly believe in it, but it wouldn't hurt to have a helping hand, maybe have someone else pull and release the brake while you look at the mechanism on the actual calipers to see how they are acting?

Also would be interesting to see if you adjusted the pressure on the actual handbrake, as it may be too tight.

With new pads, technically the 3 is meant to auto adjust, but it wouldn't hurt to help it along by releasing some pressure on the handbrake grip itself.

'06 Whitewater Pearl build |
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
XCNuse is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-06-2014, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
Short Track Racer
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: East of Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 133
I am fairly certain I pulled and released the handbrake several times... but maybe 5, not 10. Right now, I have the brakes released. I suppose I could try the hand brake 10 times and see how it goes, but I'd have to crawl back under and see if I could get them to release again.
I didn't make any other changes to the handbrake adjuster or anything. Pretty odd, it didn't do this when I changed the rotors and pads originally (a couple of years ago).
When I pull up on the handbrake, it seems OK, but when I release it there is slack instead of the first few clicks. Does that indicate the problem is in the ratchet mechanism instead of back at the brakes? I certainly did nothing at the ratchet mechanism, wherever that is.

D*eno
Factory HID, ABS, sunroof. K&N filter, Conti Extreme DWS tires, grounded TB. JL Audio C2 650 comps and J2 320.4 amp
enobiko is offline  
post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-06-2014, 01:26 PM
Administrator
 
XCNuse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 14,006
I don't think I follow your "slack instead of first few clicks" during release.

I'm just wondering if it's something as stupid and simple as the line isn't in the right place and is pulling tight on the brakes as opposed to being slack. As... when at least doing camber arms back there stuff gets moved around a lot and if you don't put it back to its resting place you can certainly add tension to the line causing them to be "on"

'06 Whitewater Pearl build |
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
XCNuse is offline  
post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-06-2014, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
Short Track Racer
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: East of Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 133
"I don't think I follow your "slack instead of first few clicks" during release."

When I pull up on the hand brake from inside the car, the first few inches is slack, then you start feeling pressure as the cable becomes taut. Normally, just an inch or so would be slack, then the brakes would start tightening. Now, it seems to go from inches of slack to all the way on, without a gradual tightening in between.
I already checked the brake cable as it goes next to the lower suspension arm, and appears to be in the normal place on both sides. But, good suggestion.

D*eno
Factory HID, ABS, sunroof. K&N filter, Conti Extreme DWS tires, grounded TB. JL Audio C2 650 comps and J2 320.4 amp
enobiko is offline  
post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-06-2014, 05:11 PM
Administrator
 
XCNuse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 14,006
oh haha, that's engaging not releasing, that's why I was confused.

'06 Whitewater Pearl build |
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
XCNuse is offline  
post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-19-2016, 10:18 PM
Moped Rider
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Posts: 16
I'm wondering how this got resolved because I am having the exact same problem after replacing rotors and pads, plus I live on the EAST SIDE OF CLEVELAND!! Cleve Hts! Same symptoms, same before and after. 2004.
jerrymann is offline  
post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-20-2016, 01:48 AM
Moped Rider
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Posts: 16
I took the wheels off and disconnected the spring and cable. Scraped exposed end of cable. I PB Blasted all. With the cable disconnected from the end I could hold it vertical and get the PB to run down in, then i would work the cable in and out quickly. After drying I coated it all with white lithium grease. Seems to have helped the releasing issue. Maybe a tiny bit of drag but we will see.
jerrymann is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum > Technical / Model / Performance > Suspension / Brakes

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Image Verification
Please enter the six letters or digits that appear in the image opposite.

Registration Image

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
How-to Guide: Rotor, Brake Pad, and BrakeLine install/replacement (FRONT / REAR) sok07 Suspension / Brakes Technical Information, FAQ's, How-To's 240 11-27-2016 03:27 PM
Parking Brake Stuck/Rust - Where to buy replacement other than dealer? ianamay Suspension / Brakes 3 11-15-2010 04:08 PM
Stuck Parking Brake vanspd3 MazdaSpeed3 Stock Issues 7 06-03-2009 08:42 AM
Rear-left parking brake slightly stuck. Psy-q Suspension / Brakes 1 02-24-2009 07:56 PM
I think my parking brake was stuck mo Suspension / Brakes 2 05-19-2007 08:30 PM

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
8